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Old 09-15-2013, 12:54 PM   #31
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I went with Titan engines. I used my stock 4.0 block and added a 258 crankshaft and new 4.0 rods with icon forged pistons bored .030" over. The 258 crank in a 242 makes it a 4.2L Bored .030" with 258 crank brings it to 4.6. I wouldn't recommend more than .030" bore.

The "kit" they put together was crank/pistons/rods/bearings.for just under a grand. I still need to add 24# injectors to get me to the 260-270hp range. Im prob only pushing 250 right now. I also have a high flow intake and high flow exhaust on my '05 LJ

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Old 09-15-2013, 12:57 PM   #32
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I went with Titan engines. I used my stock 4.0 block and added a 258 crankshaft and new 4.0 rods with icon forged pistons bored .030" over. The 258 crank in a 242 makes it a 4.2L Bored .030" with 258 crank brings it to 4.6. I wouldn't recommend more than .030" bore.

The "kit" they put together was crank/pistons/rods/bearings.for just under a grand. I still need to add 24# injectors to get me to the 260-270hp range. Im prob only pushing 250 right now. I also have a high flow intake and high flow exhaust on my '05 LJ
With that and the new oil pump, camshaft and cam bearings and machine shop fees, im up around 1500-1800 range in my motor.
I just wished Hesco still made their aluminum heads!

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Old 09-15-2013, 01:16 PM   #33
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I still need to add 24# injectors to get me to the 260-270hp range. Im prob only pushing 250 right now.
stock injectors are ~23 lbs (05-06 fuel system runs at 58 psi)...you probably want closer to 28-29 lbs/hr @ 58 psi for that kind of horsepower.

how are you tuning this motor?
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:21 PM   #34
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how much does it usually cost to have it regeared?
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:23 PM   #35
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how much does it usually cost to have it regeared?
$1200-1800 is common depending on area. that's labor, gears, master install kits, and possibly new open carrier(s) if needed. some people add lockers/Limited-Slip Differentials which adds to cost further.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:50 PM   #36
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how are you tuning this motor?[/QUOTE]

Im running stock tune right now. This is something i need to learn more about. It wouldn't idle at first until the computer had time to relearn and compensate. It runs great now, but i know its running lean. 24# injectors were recommended by Chuck, the engine guy at Titan for the cam/crank/pistons that i installed.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:59 PM   #37
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Such charts are EXTREMELY misleading because they don't take into account the transmission and engine types. Such charts are probably responsible for more bad gearing choices than anything else.

For example, that chart only gives the RPMs in the transmission gear that gives a 1.0:1 ratio... like 4th gear in a 5-speed transmission. Or with the Overdrive turned off with the 42RLE 4-speed automatic transmission. And it doesn't talk about the fact that four-banger engines need to be geared differently than TJs with 4.0L engines. So without knowing the engine and transmission type, it is impossible to give a correct ratio recommendation as those charts imply they are doing.

For example, that says 4.88 would be a bad choice for 33" tires... but for the 2.5L four-banger and 5-speed transmission, 4.88 is actually the best ratio choice. Another example is its recommendation for 35" tires where both 5.13 and 5.38 are in the red zone... but with the 42RLE automatic transmission which has an ultra-steep .69 Overdrive ratio, you actually need 5.13 at a minimum to keep the engine from lugging with 5.38 being a better choice for that size tire and transmission type.

Arathkoph, your tires are roughly a 29" so your poor performance indicates your present axle ratio is likely the notorious 3.07 ratio. Regearing to 3.73 would give you an immediate and dramatic improvement in power. This is assuming your engine is the 4.0L as was mentioned by another poster.
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Old 09-15-2013, 07:50 PM   #38
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24# injectors were recommended by Chuck, the engine guy at Titan for the cam/crank/pistons that i installed.
that's fine, but 24 lbs/hr at what psi? injector rating changes with pressure...and manufacturers publish lbs/hr ratings at all sorts of different PSI's. It's important to calculate your injector needs based on operating pressure, B.S.F.C. and duty cycle...

For example, a injector advertised as 24# may be rated at 24#'s @ 39psi. That gives 29.3#'s @ 58 psi....if the injectors are rated for the higher pressures.

See here: Fuel Injector Calculator from WitchHunter Performance
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:11 AM   #39
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Those charts are pretty useless because they generalize all vehicles and don't even take into account different transmissions.

No way you're driving on roads at 30 degree angles. Highway systems have a maximum allowable grade of 7%, which is roughly 4-5 degrees. 30 degrees is roughly a 60% grade. The steepest road in San Francisco has a 31.5% grade.

I have 4.88 gears and 33s. Driving I-70 in the mountains (which have 7% grades) I have to shift to 4th.

Well I guess I got the grade wrong, but I am still looking to not have to down shift from 5th to 4th when going on an ascending grade on the highway. I have it floored in 5th and will slowly lose speed.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:07 AM   #40
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5th gear is an Overdrive ratio & even when geared properly, it is normal to downshift to 4th gear when climbing a grade. To me, not having to downshift to a lower ratio like 4th gear when climbing a grade would mean the axles were geared too low.

Now I can see that on a very minor grade but nothing else that's not minor.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:45 PM   #41
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That gearing chart is useful-but like Jerry said it is contingent upon a final trans ratio of 1 to 1.. My 98 TJ with 3 sp auto has a lock up converter. when it locks up-its 1 to 1 (kind of like straight through). I just ordered 4.11 for mine. running 31's However if you find YOUR transmission gear ratios,(maybe owners hand book, or online) you can calculate to find optimum R&P ratio for OD. Many different transmissions out there with different engines attached to them.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:29 AM   #42
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Last night I replaced the plugs with iridium plugs along with new coil rail and TPS. I took it for a short ride and noticed a bit more power. I will use it this weekend on the highway areas where the grade cause the jeep to lose speed and report back.

Also unsure if it will contribute but I have also swapped out differential fluid, transfer case fluid and manual transmission fluid with Royal Purple Synthetic. Bought Jeep with 84K on it and was unsure if those fluids where ever changed.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:28 AM   #43
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I have 32s on 3.73s and it's wonderful on flat highways (cruise at 2k) but it's annoying downshifting in the mountains. Get some 4.11s at least.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:38 PM   #44
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what is standard gearing for a d35 rear end?
does that apply to the d30 front ?
I like my gears, personally.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:40 PM   #45
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There is no standard gearing in a D35/D30 in a TJ. Ratios that are commonly seen in them include 3.07, 3.55 ('97 TJ), 3.73, or 4.11.
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:38 AM   #46
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ok after driving it this weekend I still have a slight loss of speed on the highway when on ascending grades and I have to shift form 5th to 4th.

I guess my only option is to re-gear
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:46 AM   #47
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ok after driving it this weekend I still have a slight loss of speed on the highway when on ascending grades and I have to shift form 5th to 4th.

I guess my only option is to re-gear
or swap axles, probably cheaper and can give you more options.

its not for everyone, but it is a valid option when looking at dropping $1500
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:49 AM   #48
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turbo it ... its a jeep man ... its just not engineered to go fast ... its engineered to go anywhere ... give it a good tune up .. and keep the fluids changed..


downshifting while ascending a grade is pretty common lol ...
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:05 AM   #49
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turbo it ... its a jeep man ... its just not engineered to go fast ... its engineered to go anywhere ... give it a good tune up .. and keep the fluids changed..


downshifting while ascending a grade is pretty common lol ...
I have already:

changed out diff fluid
change transfer case fluid
changed manual transmission fluid
changed oil
swapped out plugs and coil rail
swapped out throttle position sensor and camshaft synchronizer

Supercharger prices are RIDICULOUS
I am not currently capable of swapping or rebuilding an engine
So I think all I have left is to go from 3.07 gears to 3.73 gears.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:10 AM   #50
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I have already:

changed out diff fluid
change transfer case fluid
changed manual transmission fluid
changed oil
swapped out plugs and coil rail
swapped out throttle position sensor and camshaft synchronizer

Supercharger prices are RIDICULOUS
I am not currently capable of swapping or rebuilding an engine
So I think all I have left is to go from 3.07 gears to 3.73 gears.
or swap axles. you could probably find some stock tj axles at either 3.73 or 4.10 for under $400. plenty of people have to basically throw away their d35's and a d30 shouldnt be that hard to find.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:47 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by arathkopf View Post
I have already:

changed out diff fluid
change transfer case fluid
changed manual transmission fluid
changed oil
swapped out plugs and coil rail
swapped out throttle position sensor and camshaft synchronizer

Supercharger prices are RIDICULOUS
I am not currently capable of swapping or rebuilding an engine
So I think all I have left is to go from 3.07 gears to 3.73 gears.
honestly man I don't think you are gonna find the performance u want, downshifting going up hill is normal ... your going to be revving higher burning more fuel for a very mild performance gain.... maybe its time to get a car lol
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:14 PM   #52
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:41 PM   #53
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With that and the new oil pump, camshaft and cam bearings and machine shop fees, im up around 1500-1800 range in my motor.
I just wished Hesco still made their aluminum heads!
When they quit making the head?
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Old 09-23-2013, 01:43 PM   #54
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When they quit making the head?
Website always says "on back order". I just called them and they said they might start production back up in about six months. At $2000.00 for a head its too pricey for me anyway.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:05 PM   #55
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So I think all I have left is to go from 3.07 gears to 3.73 gears.
I know emotions don't translate well via ASCII, but this statement makes it sound like you're depressed about this so-called final option. Don't be down about it. Choosing the correct gear ratio for your setup (based on your individual goals) is the easiest, best thing you could do to your Jeep. Seriously. While it will cost you over a grand all-in to have a shop do this for you, it'll give you a very satisfactory return on your investment.

My current Jeep is a 4.0L 5-speed, like yours. When I first bought it, it had 3.73 axle gears and 31" tires. I felt this was nearly a perfect combination; it gave me reasonable economy and good performance on the road.

Your tires are a little bit smaller than that, but I still think the 3.73 ratio would be a great idea for you. Your Jeep will be a bit more lively off the line and will pull many freeway hills in 5th gear. Unless you start driving it like a Fast & Furious reject, I doubt it'll even impact your fuel economy by any significant amount.

As Jerry said, don't expect it to climb every mountain pass without a downshift--that's simply being unreasonable where a manual transmission is concerned. Still, this will be about as optimal as is possible... which makes it a good idea for you.

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Old 09-23-2013, 05:18 PM   #56
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Now that you know what gears you want, check with your local shops and see if anyone gave up a set of gears. Or, check craigslist. There are lots of people re gearing their jeeps, you are likely bound to find someone giving away a set of 3.73's. If I had known you were doing this last year, I would have given you mine. I left them behind with the shop with the hopes he would pass them along and just charge the labor for the install.

Best of luck!
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:18 AM   #57
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Is there a head swap that can give another 30 hp? Would port polish and valve job do this? Im going to be putting in lifters and an oil pump so it would be a good time to do it.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:41 AM   #58
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I'm going to start looking on craigslist for complete front and rear and also gears. If I can find a set of gears very cheap then its worth me having a shop do it. If I can find complete axels cheap then I can do it.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:23 AM   #59
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I vote you go with 4.10s instead of 373...307 to 373 seems like a wasted swap.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:17 AM   #60
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3.73 would be, plain and simple, a very bad decision for the size tires you are running.

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