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Old 10-23-2013, 10:38 PM   #1
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My jeep threw a P0432 code today. I read that the TJs had 4 Oxygen Sensors. So, I was under my TJ, locating where they were. (I wish I had know that they were all on the left side of the engine. I started back before the muffler, and followed the exhaust pipe forward, until I found all four.) While down there, as I located the 4th sensor, I pushed against the exhaust pipe, and realized that the pipe is loosely bolted up to the manifold. Could this be the cause of the P0432 code? I am going to attempt to tighten the bolts. I hope that I don't break them off. They aren't real loose, but I can wiggle the pipe back & forth a little. If I break them off, how hard is it to find replacements? Since they are loose, does that mean that the gasket is gone? The engine doesn't sound loud.

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Old 10-23-2013, 10:42 PM   #2
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If you can. They get pretty rusted and usually the clamp will have to cut of with a torch and replaced. If you don't have access to a welder, I would take it to a muffler shop and have them fix any issues.

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Old 10-24-2013, 12:04 AM   #3
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Had a similar situation on mine at about 60,000 miles. Took a little effort to get a wrench/socket in on the bolts but they tightened right up. They looked rusted and would be hard to crank but a little squirt of pb blaster and they turned with little effort. Fixed the loose pipe and a little rattle that I had.
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Old 10-24-2013, 08:47 AM   #4
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Quote:
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... a little squirt of pb blaster and they turned with little effort. Fixed the loose pipe and a little rattle that I had.
No rattle yet.

I called a muffler shop this morning to ask how much they would charge to just tighten the bolts.

The guy said that, because those particular bolts were a pain to get to, it would be around $65 to tighten them.

Ouch!
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:38 AM   #5
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No rattle yet.

I called a muffler shop this morning to ask how much they would charge to just tighten the bolts.

The guy said that, because those particular bolts were a pain to get to, it would be around $65 to tighten them.

Ouch!
If you are talking about the bolts for the "exhaust manifold to precats" flange, tell that muffler shop to piss off! It may take a long extensions and a knuckle joint, but they are not a pain to get to. When I replaced my precats, it took all of 2 minutes start to finish to remove the bolts, and about that same amount of time to put them back. Just spray some PBR or WD-40 on there and let them soak real good first.

And yeah, it may move slightly since it is more of a "ball connection" and not a flat flange style connection. Even if it moves a bit, you may not hear a super loud exhaust noise. When you do tighten the bolts, make sure to get roughly the same amount of threads through on each side.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:58 AM   #6
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... It may take a long extensions and a knuckle joint, but they are not a pain to get to...
Sounds good.
I'll give it a try.
If I were to snap off one or more of these bolts (they are rusty looking, & are probably 10 years old), how hard is it to find replacements?

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... it may move slightly since it is more of a "ball connection" and not a flat flange style connection....
How much should they be able to move?
I may have to post a video to show how much they do move.
Once I have tightened them up, being that they are a "ball connection", will they still move a little, or would tightening them up snug them up?
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:08 PM   #7
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... Just spray some PBR or WD-40 on there and let them soak real good first...
What is "PBR"?
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:14 PM   #8
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What is "PBR"?
Pabst Blue Ribbon (college kid budget beer) LOL

What he meant was PB blaster. Use that, don't even waste your time with WD40 as it's a solvent.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:12 PM   #9
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A friend of mine (another Jeeper) took a look at my exhaust system this evening.

He told me that that minor looseness is normal. He says that it's because of the donut type of gasket, & that, if there were a flat gasket in there, there would be no "give & take" when off-roading.

So, that means that that's one less thing to take care of.
Ok, what's next?

The mercury-activated light up under the hood.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:01 AM   #10
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Yeah, I meant PB Blaster. I must have been in weekend mode already, haha! You should have a little allowable movement, but you shouldn't really be able to move it by hand unless you really pull or push on it. I would make sure they are tightened all the way to the correct specs.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:54 AM   #11
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... you shouldn't really be able to move it by hand unless you really pull or push on it...
Then in that case, I might need to tighten them up a little. They only move slightly, but it doesn't take much to make them move.
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:56 PM   #12
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Ok. I picked up a can of PB Blaster on my way home tonight.
Being that my TJ is my DD, the exhaust is now (of course) hot.

I was going to spray the flange bolts, then wait a while to attempt to tighten them. But, I notice that it says on the can that this stuff has a "high flashpoint". Not sure exactly what that means, as far as spraying this stuff onto a hot exhaust.
So, I guess I'll spray the bolts tomorrow, while I'm at lunch, & the jeep's exhaust isn't hot.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:01 PM   #13
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High flash point means that it takes a high temp to ignite it. A low flash point is more "explosive" if you will. Just wait a half hour or so. You can spray it on the exhaust pope with no issues right now though. May smoke a little in the worst case scenario.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:44 PM   #14
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... You can spray it on the exhaust pope with no issues right now though. May smoke a little in the worst case scenario.
I just finished tightening up the bolts. I'm going for a little test drive. The CEL will probably stay on. That's ok. I just want a reason to get behind the wheel again, plus I want to burn off some of the excess PB Blaster that got on the exhaust pipes.
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:43 PM   #15
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Now that I've tightened up the flange bolts, will the CEL go off on its own, or will I need to manually reset it?
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:45 AM   #16
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Sometimes the will go off but sometimes they don't. Just pull the center connector (I think) on the PCM and it will reset it.
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:42 AM   #17
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Never tried the center pcm connector but removing the negative battery cable for a minute will reset the check engine light (cel).
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:23 AM   #18
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Some tilt switches do have mercury but the one on your jeep underhood light does not it has a capsule with a metal ball inside that rolls back and forth
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:43 AM   #19
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My friend has an OBD tool that will reset the code. BTW, my idle has smoothed out a little bit. Coincidence?

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