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Old 09-15-2010, 10:20 PM   #1
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Lower Control arm Skids

Any thoughts on boxing in factory lower control arms. Went wheeling last weekend and they got pretty scratched up sliding across rocks. I know there are skids for the front mounts on the axle but thought about welding a plate to the bottom of the control arms so to strengthen them. Anyone tried it or does it make them to rigid? Thought I would see what others might think.

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Old 09-15-2010, 11:11 PM   #2
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It'd be a lot more effective to just get some heavy duty tube control arms... The stock ones don't seem to put up with much on rocks from what i've seen, and the metal is so thin I don't think welding anything on to them would really help anything.

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Old 09-15-2010, 11:14 PM   #3
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You weld the skids on to the control arm braket that is located on the axle tube.

I have the JKS ones, with stock control arms they wont work, unless you trim the bottom down.

But even with tube CA itd be nice to have the skids there so the Johnny's dont take a beating.
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:14 PM   #4
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That is kind of what I was thinking. Most of the after market adjustables that I have run across list that they are for 4" or higher lifts. Any suggestions on ones that would be stok length up to at least 2" lift?
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan View Post
You weld the skids on to the control arm braket that is located on the axle tube.

I have the JKS ones, with stock control arms they wont work, unless you trim the bottom down.

But even with tube CA itd be nice to have the skids there so the Johnny's dont take a beating.
I know which ones you are talking about to protect the mounting bracket, there on my list. The control arms themselves are getting scraped along the bottoms sliding over rocks. really shows how flimsy they are.
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:19 PM   #6
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I believe Rokmens ACA would work for stock or 2" application or higher.
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:20 PM   #7
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Yeah, there is nothing you can do about rock rashing the actual arms, but to get tubular adjustables. But the skids protect where they are most vulnerable, at the joint.
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan View Post
I believe Rokmens ACA would work for stock or 2" application or higher.
Just looked them up that would work. Thanks
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan View Post
Yeah, there is nothing you can do about rock rashing the actual arms, but to get tubular adjustables. But the skids protect where they are most vulnerable, at the joint.
I know I need the skids to. I actually did better at not taging the bracket so hard but sliding over stuff worked on the arms pretty good.
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:27 AM   #10
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It's easy to make them near bullet proof.
Remove them one at a time.

Cut 2 lengths of 1.25 x .120 tube to fit inside the stock arms. Weld them in place inside the channel.

Now cut a 2" ? wide piece of flat 3/16 to box it in, weld it in place.

Careful when you get near the ends that you don't damage the rubber bushings, keep dousing the ends in water to keep them cool.

For the uppers use one piece of 1" tube and do the same.

They'll be stronger than any aftermarket arms made from tubing.

I've done probably 20 or so TJ's like that, so far nobody has bent one.

For the axle mounts - make a piece of 3/16 the width between the ears. Drill and tap two holes 1/2. Weld that piece between the ears in front, tying the 2 ears together.
Make a 1/4" skid plate to bolt to the holes.
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:34 AM   #11
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Prevents this - or worse!
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:35 AM   #12
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The insert
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:37 AM   #13
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another insert
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:41 AM   #14
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I used to sell these on E-bay - $120 a pair. Fits front or rear.

I'm out of that business now.
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:44 AM   #15
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They can take a severe beating - and protects the mounting ears from bending or breaking.
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:52 AM   #16
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Strengthening the stock control arm prevents this:

It's very easy to bend those things.
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:56 AM   #17
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While you are at it - strengthen another weak area - the axle end of the right upper control arm.
Box it in, add gussets on both sides.

Yes, they snap right off!
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:03 AM   #18
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As I said, I'm out of that business now.
But I still have a few of the lower control arm braces and skid plates. 4 or 5 sets I think. They probably have a little rust, and need a little paint, but they are new (leftovers.)

Free to anyone who wants them. I'll probably need $10.00 for shipping.

PM me if you want a set.

I'm cleaning out one of my shops. I may have 1 or 2 engine skid plates too.
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Old 09-16-2010, 05:53 AM   #19
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By the way - the lower control arm skid's insert ties the 2 ears together, significantly adding strength.

The actual skid plate itself is removable with bolts and is replaceable. (In case you actually do bend it.) And once removed total access to the ends of the control arms is easy.

The skid plate is a solid bent 1/4" steel plate, not pieced together, with gussets. The bend actually lets it wrap around the bracket for full protection.

It fits both stock and all control arms that I've ever encountered.

For use in the rear the end of the plate may need to be notched slightly to allow the arm to swing it's full travel. That depends on the suspension arms and the amount of lift.

If the LCA bracket's ears are already bent or distorted, they need to be bent back straight before installation. When bending them back you'll be surprised at how weak they are. They are only made of about 1/16" (Shame on Jeep for making them so flimsy.)

Yes, it cuts down on ground clearance - it reduces ground clearance by just over 1/4".

When I hear a loud "BANG" underneath, I'd rather laugh than cringe!
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:22 AM   #20
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Thanks for all the info.
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:42 AM   #21
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Rich, any pics of the engine skid?

PM sent.

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