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Old 07-26-2010, 06:58 AM   #1
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Lower Radiator Hose Spring

I'm wondering if it's absolutely necessary to have a spring inside the lower radiator hose.

I purchase an aftermarket hose. It did not have the spring inside it. Over the past 12,500 miles, it has worked fine. But for some reason, now, my 4.0 is running hot, 220 and up. It doesn't overheat, but I don't want to drive it hot.


I've recently done all of the usual things, replaced water pump, thermostat, replaced radiator, flushed heater core. But I'm still running hot. Also since replacing the radiator, I don't get heat anymore.

If the lower hose were collapsing, would I be able to see it???? If it were collapsing, would it effect the heat???

Thanks,

Mike

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Old 07-26-2010, 07:03 AM   #2
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Not sure if it is causing your issue, but yes the spring needs to be in there.

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Old 07-26-2010, 09:54 AM   #3
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It may only collapse when the water pump is drawing a lot of coolant from the radiator which may be at higher rpm's where you are not likely to see it happening, the spring will prevent this.

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Old 07-26-2010, 10:06 AM   #4
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I would not run without one.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:21 AM   #5
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Just because you replaced the thermostat, doesn't mean that it's still ok.
The heat not working and overheating make me a little suspicious of it.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:34 AM   #6
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Where are you located? Its been really hot here and my jeep is running a little hotter than normal. I'd check the hoses for cracks...could be "misting" out coolant
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:35 AM   #7
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Also, check that fan clutch.

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Old 07-26-2010, 12:24 PM   #8
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Where are you located? Its been really hot here and my jeep is running a little hotter than normal. I'd check the hoses for cracks...could be "misting" out coolant
On that note, also couldn't hurt to toss on a new radiator cap.
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:19 AM   #9
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I've already changed most of the cooling system components and it's still running hot

I put in a new radiator, thermostat, flushed the heater core and put on a new rad cap.

It's still running at about 220. I'm in Florida so it's hot down here, but it never used to run hot in 90 degree weather.

What would the symptoms be if the fan clutch were just beginning to go bad?

It doesn't have excess play, it doesn't free wheel and it appears to be pulling air through the radiator when I rev it up. But when I drive a few miles, it kinds smells like the clutch is burning. There's a weird burning smell directly in the front of the vehicle just below the fan shroud.

It isn't a burnt antifreeze smell. More like the something else.

Any ideas?
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:43 PM   #10
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Does it smell like rubber or grease or maybe metal? Is there any unusual noise?
Also make sure you don't have any air in the radiator. I usually start it up and let it run and when the thermostat opens and the water is circulating I top it off and then replace the cap. After that check the reservoir and make sure you have some in there and its up to the full mark.
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Old 07-28-2010, 05:54 AM   #11
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Alright, I'm a member of a few Jeep sites so I've basically gone all over the world trying to determine why my Jeeps be running hot and hear it is and listen closely.

RADIATORS.

That it!!

When you replace your radiator, there is a company that's makes the aftermarket part, by the name of Sprectra Inductries. They are located throughout the US and Canada. However, on the TJ's and maybe others, they used to make a radiator for the manuel version of the vehicle as well as the automatic version of the vehicle. Now they insist that the automatic version of the radiator will work just fine in the manual vehicle. And they are no longer making the manual radiator version.

Now if you read the specifications of both radiators very carefully, you'll see that there is a difference. So after massive investigation into what could be "wrong" with "my" Jeep, I decided to bench test these two radiators side by side in identical contions.

AND WOULDN'T YOU KNOW IT, THE AUTOMATIC RADIATOR, PRODUCES A 15 TO 25 DEGREE TEMP. DIFFERENTIAL. IN OTHER WORDS, IT WILL RUN ANYWHERE FROM 15 TO 25 DEGREES HOTTER WITH THE WRONG RADIATOR.

Son of a B

Both Sprectra Industries and Autozone are now running for cover. They've essentially buried their heads on this and I expect they'll probably lawyer up. Because anybody's that's blown a head gasket or cracked a block and can prove they purchase of of these aftermarket radiators will certainly have a cause of action.

I was so pissed, I sent the test result to Chrysler's engineers, who gladly acknowledged that the automatics radiator was never designed to be put into a manual vehicle.

LESSON; CHECK YOUR RADITOR IF YOU'VE GOT A MANUAL TRANNY AND YOUR USING A REPLACEMENT RADITOR FROM SPECTRA IT MAY BE A RADITOR MEANT FOR THE SAME VEHICLE BUT WITH AN AUTOMATIC TRANNY. IT IS NOT NORMAL TO BE RUNNING 20 DEGREES HOT THAN NORMAL. THE RADITOR THEY ARE SELLING IS A "SMALLER" CAPACITY AND HAS LESS AIR FLOW.
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:53 AM   #12
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.

What would the symptoms be if the fan clutch were just beginning to go bad?
When you are going slower the temp will rise when you speed up the temp will be more normal. Hope this helps.

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Old 08-27-2010, 10:42 PM   #13
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I dunno for years and years aftermarket companies have been making "universal" replacement radiators for manual/automatics. I have used them on many vehicles and never had an issue. I would be more inclined with your changes you have air in the system. When the system is cold top off the radiator with coolant mix. With the cap off start the vehicle and turn the heat on high. Let it run and heat up. I usually let it just idle for a while and check it every few minutes. The air will naturally burp up through the radiator. Give it time to do this. May solve your problem.
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Old 08-28-2010, 12:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoh1030 View Post
I'm wondering if it's absolutely necessary to have a spring inside the lower radiator hose.

I purchase an aftermarket hose. It did not have the spring inside it. Over the past 12,500 miles, it has worked fine. But for some reason, now, my 4.0 is running hot, 220 and up. It doesn't overheat, but I don't want to drive it hot.


I've recently done all of the usual things, replaced water pump, thermostat, replaced radiator, flushed heater core. But I'm still running hot. Also since replacing the radiator, I don't get heat anymore.

If the lower hose were collapsing, would I be able to see it???? If it were collapsing, would it effect the heat???


Thanks,

Mike
Yes you need the spring. As the hose gets older and softer it will collapse at high speeds and cause the engine to overheat. It's a cheap fix.

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