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Old 11-17-2013, 02:59 PM   #1
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Manifold torque impossible?

While waiting on my new exhaust manifold to arrive, I went ahead and removed the old one to prep for replacement. Seems to be a pretty straight forward job, but I do not see how it is possible to use a torque wrench on the bottom bolts. The only way I could get in there (bottom bolts) was with a 9/16 wrench. Even with swivels and extensions it just seems like it ain't gonna happen? How many of you that has done this actually used the torque wrench? I really feel it is necessary, but I don't see it happening.

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Old 11-17-2013, 03:03 PM   #2
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Didn't use a torque wrench. Just use the german torque spec

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Old 11-17-2013, 03:04 PM   #3
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That was over a year and a half ago and my buddys had no issues with it
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:06 PM   #4
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Also, while I've got the fuel rail pulled, would it be a waste of money to replace the injectors? I don't have any reason other than they probably have 150k miles on them.
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:07 PM   #5
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Didn't use a torque wrench. Just use the german torque spec
That's kinda what I'm thinking.
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:09 PM   #6
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If they aren't acting up id say its a waste
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Old 11-17-2013, 04:56 PM   #7
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Just give them a cleaning and yu should be good to go
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:25 PM   #8
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"guten-tight" (made me google )
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:32 PM   #9
Knows a couple things...

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One more thought... since you'll be reinstalling the air intake manifold, make sure to spend enough time to get it properly positioned over its positioning studs. At least once a week someone asks why their engine RPMs are redlining after replacing the exhaust header & invariably, it's from not having gotten the intake manifold properly positioned so it has an air tight seal.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:05 AM   #10
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Thanks all for the info. I've done a good bit of searching and reading on the manifold swap, and it does seem some have issues with realigning the intake. It also seems like most claim to have "torqued" the bottom bolts too.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:12 PM   #11
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Interesting, what year is your Jeep? If I recall - I did not have issues torquing the bolts to spec when I did the replacement around 8 years ago on my 1998 TJ.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:41 PM   #12
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I just put the accordian style on. Took a aftermarket off. There was no way to get to those on bottom on the aftermarket one. The new one was designed differently to where I could get a tork in there with several extensions. Pita. helps to have small hands getting some of those in.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:00 PM   #13
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Interesting, what year is your Jeep? If I recall - I did not have issues torquing the bolts to spec when I did the replacement around 8 years ago on my 1998 TJ.
Islandtj, I have the exact same Jeep as you, '98 Green Sahara. I'm sure gonna try and get them torqued to spec, but it looks like it will be almost impossible on the bottom bolts.

dbgbuell, maybe that's it, I took off an aftermarket pos header. Hopefully the one off ebay with the flex joints gives me more room.
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Old 11-18-2013, 01:01 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by IslandTJ View Post
Interesting, what year is your Jeep? If I recall - I did not have issues torquing the bolts to spec when I did the replacement around 8 years ago on my 1998 TJ.
I wonder if our scratches and dents are similar?
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Old 11-18-2013, 02:38 PM   #15
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i wonder if our scratches and dents are similar?
lol.
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:42 AM   #16
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Thought I'd pass this on, maybe it will save someone the frustration of returning to the parts store. I ordered the exhaust manifold hardware kit by Napa (for my year TJ 4.0), mainly to get the studs that the parts guy couldn't match up from their hardware bin. The kit only has 7 bolts and 2 studs, not the 9 required to do the job. I figured the package was just shy 2 bolts but it even says on the back (7) 3/8"x16 1 1/4".
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Old 11-19-2013, 01:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brando4905 View Post
While waiting on my new exhaust manifold to arrive, I went ahead and removed the old one to prep for replacement. Seems to be a pretty straight forward job, but I do not see how it is possible to use a torque wrench on the bottom bolts. The only way I could get in there (bottom bolts) was with a 9/16 wrench. Even with swivels and extensions it just seems like it ain't gonna happen? How many of you that has done this actually used the torque wrench? I really feel it is necessary, but I don't see it happening.
I've done this 3 or 4 times, and it's a huuuuuuuge PITA every time. I just get underneath with a torque wrench, extensions, u-joints, frustration, cursing, and beer. It is do-able though with patience.
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Old 11-19-2013, 04:37 PM   #18
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Im as happy as a mule eating briars! Lol. I was able to use my 3/8" torque wrench to torque every fastener. Dbgbuell was right, with the new manifold with flex joints I had plenty of room to get at the bolts. I don't know what brand header I took off, but with that one, there wasn't sufficient room to get a ratchet in there. All seems well, and quiet now. I guess the thread title should read,"Manifold torque NOT impossible". Thanks for the help and input folks, much appreciated!

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