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Old 05-23-2009, 01:15 PM   #1
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Question Mechanically inclined people please help!

I just got my TJ on Thursday last week. It came lifted with nice offroad tires. The plus side is there isn't anything I need to do to it to get it looking like I want it, but the down side is that I have no idea how rough the previous owner drove it. Thats the only bad part about getting used Jeeps, they were usually used as they were intended.

To get to the point, I was going over it today and found 2 suspicious "wet" spots underneath. I can't get the pics posted right now for some reason, but I will try again in a little bit. The spots are at the front plate of the transmission adjacent to the oil pan. And the other is on the back side of the front differential where the U joints go into it. Note, there hasn't been any droplets left where I have been parking it. These areas are just wet looking and have a single drop hanging. I am really no mechanic so you might have to use laymen terms.

Thanks for the help!

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Old 05-23-2009, 01:29 PM   #2
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Hey bud welcome to the forum. The issue you have with posting pic's is you must have 15post first before you may post pictures.

The leak at the rear of the front differental "where the u=joint goes in" is really your pinion yoke that goes into the front diff. The leak you have there is MOST likey a front pinion seal.....common issue from time to time with wranglers. Easy fix.

The leak you have adjacent to te oil pan "between the oil pan and the transmission" <<<what I'm getting from your discription. Is probally a rear main seal....also a common problem with the 4.0 engine.

If you have pictures...post a link or the url here and I'll post the pic's for you bud.

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Old 05-23-2009, 01:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Hey bud welcome to the forum. The issue you have with posting pic's is you must have 15post first before you may post pictures.

The leak at the rear of the front differental "where the u=joint goes in" is really your pinion yoke that goes into the front diff. The leak you have there is MOST likey a front pinion seal.....common issue from time to time with wranglers. Easy fix.

The leak you have adjacent to te oil pan "between the oil pan and the transmission" <<<what I'm getting from your discription. Is probally a rear main seal....also a common problem with the 4.0 engine.

If you have pictures...post a link or the url here and I'll post the pic's for you bud.
i also had a leak on my rear main seal and it cost 350$ parts and labor.
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Old 05-23-2009, 01:50 PM   #4
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I will see what I can do about getting a few more posts, then I will get the pictures on here. Thanks for the quick reply. I am loving the Jeep community almost as I love the Jeep itself. I will be back with the pics I took later today.
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Old 05-23-2009, 01:52 PM   #5
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You can run with both of them just fine, just check the oil level from time to time until you can get them fixed. I ran my CJ with the rear main leaking for 2 years... LOL
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Old 05-23-2009, 01:53 PM   #6
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No problem bud. If you have anymore questions what so ever...ask away. This is a bash free forum.

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.


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Old 05-23-2009, 02:41 PM   #7
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Here are those pictures. I didn't resize them earlier. That was the problem. Some websites autoresize when you post. My mistake. So what do you guys think?
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Old 05-23-2009, 02:45 PM   #8
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the verdic is...............



front pinion seal leak and rear main seal leak.
Check the lube in the front diff,,,and check the oil. Keep them topped off until you can get them fixed.

The pinion seal is something like $14 plus install....the rear main seal can run from $250 to $600 or so depending on your area/machanic.
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Old 05-23-2009, 03:35 PM   #9
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Both leaks wont cause any damage as long as you keep up on the fluids.
My rear pinion seal has been leaking for a year now. I'm so lazy, lol.
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Old 05-23-2009, 05:04 PM   #10
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Okay, not the best news since I just bought it , but at least it's not the end of the world.

So questions:

1. Does the lift cause this? If not was there a preventable cause?
2. Is there a grease fitting on the front differential? Special kind of grease needed?
3. Is the engine oil level all that needs to be maintained for the rear main seal leak?
4. I didn't find a transmission dipstick to check like I have on my Chevy 3/4 ton. Is there one?
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Old 05-23-2009, 05:15 PM   #11
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through youtube i have learned the front diff uses gear oil not grease. please ignore my ignorance on that question.
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Old 05-23-2009, 08:37 PM   #12
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my jeep was never lifted that i know of and my rear pinion was leaking when i bought it.

And about the oil. Theres nothing that will be damaged with the rear main seal leaking.
Just keep up on the oil level and you'll be ok until you get around to fixing it.

Not sure about the dipstick...i have a 5 speed
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFT80 View Post
Okay, not the best news since I just bought it , but at least it's not the end of the world.

So questions:

1. Does the lift cause this? If not was there a preventable cause?
Nope, it just happens. Preventable...not really, common issues with TJ's.

2. Is there a grease fitting on the front differential? Special kind of grease needed?
No grease fitting. There will be a metal plug on the front of the differentail cover. Remove it and fill it until it is at the bottom of the fill plug hole.

3. Is the engine oil level all that needs to be maintained for the rear main seal leak?
It will be fine to keep it topped off with oil until you can get it fixed. But it IS always best to get it fixed.

4. I didn't find a transmission dipstick to check like I have on my Chevy 3/4 ton. Is there one?
If you have a automatic transmission YES...it will be back by the firewall....If it is a Standard transmission...NO. there are two plugs on the side of the transmission. The upper one is to fill it and the lower plug is to drain it. The leak you have at the front of the transmission housing is NOT from your trans. But if you do want to check the tranny fluid level just remove the upper plug on the side of the transmission and stick your finger in there....the fluid level should be just about to the bottom of the fill plug "the upper plug".

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Old 05-24-2009, 06:57 AM   #14
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No problem bud. If you have anymore questions what so ever...ask away. This is a bash free forum.

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.


I like this, about this forum! There are some folks on other forums, who forget what it was like to be a noob. Maybe they were born with all the knowledge they will ever have!

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Okay, not the best news since I just bought it , but at least it's not the end of the world.

1. Does the lift cause this? If not was there a preventable cause?
Hope you don't mind a YJ'er commenting on your post, the thread title caught my eye.

A lift can cause vibrations, if not done properly.

Specifically if the pinion angle hasn't been addressed.

If you look at your front pinion angle, it should point right at the transfer case
Yolk.(vehicle sitting on the ground, at normal ride height.)

A front axle is tougher to do this to, as it will change the caster angles.

The front ball joints, should be set to where the top joint is slightly to the rear of the bottom joint. In other words, if you drew an imaginary line through both upper & lower ball joint, that line should be tipped back at the top.

Some people just use angled shims to accomplish pointing the pinion at the t-case. This brings the caster angle to vertical, or even beyond.

This situation results in a scary, white knuckled ride where any road grooves or bumps will cause you to suddenly change lanes. Not much fun.

The solution, is to cut the welds where the axle tubes meet the steering knuckle mounts.( "C" shaped things that carry the ball joints, can't remember what they're called.) Then you set the pinion angle, & reset the caster.

Checking both angles a few times to be sure, you weld it back up.
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Old 05-24-2009, 12:38 PM   #15
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Thanks! You guys rock. I agree, this is a great forum and I am definitely a noob. Jeep has a real asset with this site and community. It should be a selling point at the dealerships.
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckshot500 View Post
I like this, about this forum! There are some folks on other forums, who forget what it was like to be a noob. Maybe they were born with all the knowledge they will ever have!



Hope you don't mind a YJ'er commenting on your post, the thread title caught my eye.

A lift can cause vibrations, if not done properly.

Specifically if the pinion angle hasn't been addressed.

If you look at your front pinion angle, it should point right at the transfer case
Yolk.(vehicle sitting on the ground, at normal ride height.)

A front axle is tougher to do this to, as it will change the caster angles.

The front ball joints, should be set to where the top joint is slightly to the rear of the bottom joint. In other words, if you drew an imaginary line through both upper & lower ball joint, that line should be tipped back at the top.

Some people just use angled shims to accomplish pointing the pinion at the t-case. This brings the caster angle to vertical, or even beyond.

This situation results in a scary, white knuckled ride where any road grooves or bumps will cause you to suddenly change lanes. Not much fun.

The solution, is to cut the welds where the axle tubes meet the steering knuckle mounts.( "C" shaped things that carry the ball joints, can't remember what they're called.) Then you set the pinion angle, & reset the caster.

Checking both angles a few times to be sure, you weld it back up.
Great info for setting up the pinion angle for a YJ.

For a TJ You need to buy adjustable control arms/ or camber bolts for the control arms.

JTF80 judging buy the photo's you posted in the other thread your front pinion angle seems good...but...photos can be deceaving.
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:04 AM   #17
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Great info for setting up the pinion angle for a YJ.

For a TJ You need to buy adjustable control arms/ or camber bolts for the control arms.
.
OK, the suspension is different. But wouldn't the caster angle need to be addressed, if the pinion angle is changed? Cutting the welds on the outer ends of the front axle tubes is the only way to do this for any more than a small amount.

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