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Old 11-09-2013, 07:34 PM   #1
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Metalcloak Control Arm Length??

So I am in the process of installing my lift, 3.5" ARB Edition. The instructions do not say anything about setting the length of the control arms. I know they will have to be adjusted later, but what would be a good starting length. Front, Rear, Uppers and Lowers?

Anyone who has installed this lift have a good starting point?

Thanks

Carl

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Old 11-09-2013, 10:11 PM   #2
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I would call MetalCloak. I thought I saw someplace in the instructions online that they would come set for the 3.5" lift close enough to get you in the ball park. You then would have to make final adjustments and get your alignment done.

I will be following this as I am seriously looking at this lift for purchase for my 05 LJ. Pics and likes/dislikes would be appreciated.

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Old 11-09-2013, 10:35 PM   #3
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Arm length will simply be a byproduct of what actually matters.
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Old 11-10-2013, 11:12 AM   #4
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I'll try to explain it. There is no set length. Start with them around .5" longer then stock. Do this with the coils removed. Jack both sides of the axle up and set your bumpstop length. After that adjust the lowers so your bumpstop is centered at full bump in the lower spring bucket. Now your wheelbase is roughly set. Make sure both lowers are the same length. Now put the springs in and put the tires back on. Put the floor jack under your diff and remove the uppers. If you can't remove the last upper, move your jack up and down until you can. With no uppers in, and the floorjack under the pinion area, lower or raise the jack until you reach your prefered caster & pinion angle. Once reached set the length of the first upper so the bolts slide in easily. Once your first upper is mounted, remove the jack from under the pinion to relieve the pressure. Go to the other side and adjust your 2nd upper so the bolts easily slide in the holes. It does not matter if they are the same length, so don't worry about measuring. What matters is that there's no preload put on the last upper. Meaning, don't set the other upper by a measurement from the first upper. The only thing that matters are it being adjusted to get both bolts in without force. Now congrats, you are almost done with the front. Find a spot(same spot) on both sides to measure for centering the axle. Usually if you bounce and rock the jeep a few times it will get close. Now adjust your front track bar so it fits easily in the holes(you can permenantly attach whichever end you won't be rotating to adjust it in/out). Now remeasure and see how how far it needs to go to be centered. If you need it to move the axle towards the passenger side .5", adjust it longer by half that measurement
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Old 11-10-2013, 11:29 AM   #5
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Now do the same for the rear. After you finish the rear, check to see if the tires are centered in the wheel well at ride height. If so, you are done. If not, adjust both of the lowers and uppers out the same length. If you adjust them by the same amount your pinion angle will remain set. Everything should also be pretty square since yours lowers are set at the same length. You'll just have to find similar places on both sides to measure. Then re-adjust everything again. When you do this, control arm length doesn't matter when squaring. You can remove one arm at a time and adjust a little at a time until you get the axle square. If you remove one upper, and adjust the other the same amount that you adjusted your lower, then your caster will stay set. Then take the upper you removed and adjust it so the bolts slide in easily. You don't touch the uppers until you square with the lowers. Its time consuming and confusing. The only measurements you really need to be concerned with are starting length of the arms, and when checking the axle to being square with the frame(front to back on each side of the axle). At the end you could end up with a different length on each control arm, but the axle being square to the frame. Which is what matters. Good rule is to put the measuring tape away until you go to center & square everything. Good luck, and post pictures. Im interested in seeing how the mc arb edition works out


Edit: use common sense when you do this so you don't kill yourself. Don't go trying to remove both uppers, or both lowers with the springs in. The are the only thing keeping the axle from rotating. If they rotate too much the spring will bow, and either shoot out, or be damaged. With the possibility of the rig falling on you as well
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3" BDS front coils, 2.5" OME HD rear coils, 33x10.50 KM2's, 15x8 Soft 8's, Skyjacker Hydros, RE Superflex arms, SYE/CV

2001 WJ Limited 4.7, lifted, locked, KM2's
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:40 PM   #6
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Dealer - Thanks for the info. I have the front about half done. Taking my time. Not in a hurry as I'm waiting for my SYE to show up, then have to do the driveshaft.
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:49 PM   #7
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It took me forever to learn how to do it correctly. I kept setting one upper, and making the other the same length, then moving the pinion and forcing it on. The 2 arms were fighting each other. Once someone told me to set the angle first, then adjust to slide right in, things started working alot better
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2001 WJ Limited 4.7, lifted, locked, KM2's
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Arm length will simply be a byproduct of what actually matters.
really, hey you're almost to 3k posts I guess that's the goal.
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MosesTJ View Post
really, hey you're almost to 3k posts I guess that's the goal.
While Impeds advice doesn't tell the OP what he needs to do, it is a very true statement.
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Arm length will simply be a byproduct of what actually matters.
I'll risk being the fool and ask: Axle position and pinion angle? Though it would seem the latter would be best controlled by arm mount location on the axle itself yes?
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:21 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by UFOtestpilot View Post

I'll risk being the fool and ask: Axle position and pinion angle? Though it would seem the latter would be best controlled by arm mount location on the axle itself yes?
I installed a MC lift this summer but it's the same concept no matter what brand. You are correct..pinion angle and axle position.

I started with the lowers (rear) as short as they would go knowing that adjusting the uppers would move the pumpkin back closer to the gas tank skid. Once those were on, I installed the uppers to meet the necessary pinion angle (with a SYE). My pumpkin cleared my poison spyder gas tank skid so I called it good. If there was a need (and room) to move the axle back, you could adjust the lowers out a little.

For the front axle, same concept but you have to account for proper castor.

My advice is to start with the lowers short and adjust from there.
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:35 PM   #12
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I've always been told to start with the bumpstops centered at full bump. Then if u have any clearances you can address them

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2001 WJ Limited 4.7, lifted, locked, KM2's
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