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Old 08-23-2010, 03:27 PM   #1
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Moving to 35's, Help

Its a big move, lots to consider, lots of money going to be spent.

Okay so I never got my jeep lifted like i told everyone I was, i just stayed where I was and put a flow master super 44 muffler.

Now i have saved a good 3500$ and more soon to get my jeep on 35's.

more info:
1. tires are coming in December... The father is paying for them. So that's not in the cost of things.
2. I have a 1" body lift, so I'm looking at a 4" suspension lift.
3. I have a Dana 35, So I'm doing a super 35kit.
4. I have 3.73's, 4.0L I6, 5speed.


So tell me your thoughts on which 4" lift you guys like, what gear ratio with my setup, and how you like the super35kit. Thanks.

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Old 08-23-2010, 03:34 PM   #2
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4.11's are nice with the I6. My Cherokee has 4.11's and its quite peppy.

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Old 08-23-2010, 03:34 PM   #3
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My recommendations for you:
Currie 4" lift
Superior Super35
4.88 gears (actually, I'd go with 5.13 but you can't)
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Old 08-23-2010, 03:35 PM   #4
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4.11's are nice with the I6. My Cherokee has 4.11's and its quite peppy.
You aren't running 35" tires. They would suck with that gear ratio.....
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Old 08-23-2010, 03:40 PM   #5
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You aren't running 35" tires. They would suck with that gear ratio.....
FWIW The rubber in my profile pic isn't what came with the truck. They've been downsized. Don't make assumptions!
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Old 08-23-2010, 03:40 PM   #6
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4.56 gears..... $1,000
skip the 35 kit and do an 8.8 or find a d44 out of a TJ ...$1000
SYE/CV kit $500 plus install $300

You probably won't be happy with the zone kit offroad. For the money it is a cheaper lift but I've always said you get what you pay for with a lift.
I like my Rubicon Express Superflx 3.5" that measures 4.5" but go ahead and get the adjustable rear upper control arms (you'll need with the sye/cv kit)

Hope that helps
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Old 08-23-2010, 03:41 PM   #7
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FWIW The rubber in my profile pic isn't what came with the truck. They've been downsized. Don't make assumptions!
So you ARE running 35's with 4.11 gears?
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Old 08-23-2010, 03:44 PM   #8
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So you ARE running 35's with 4.11 gears?
Actually, no, I'm running Dueler something-or-others cuz the 35's that the truck was sitting on were completely bald and the duelers came with it. Maybe all the rubber that came off the BFG M/T's lightened them up a ton, but it wasn't as sluggish as I expected.

They also rubbed in a good flex.
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Old 08-23-2010, 03:52 PM   #9
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Actually, no, I'm running Dueler something-or-others cuz the 35's that the truck was sitting on were completely bald and the duelers came with it. Maybe all the rubber that came off the BFG M/T's lightened them up a ton, but it wasn't as sluggish as I expected.

They also rubbed in a good flex.
The PO probably is wanting the most "ideal" ratio for what his intentions are. So I would agree, 4.11's wouldnt be the best setup, 4.88's are more ideal. I would probably go Currie or Rock Krawler suspension. With axles, if the 8.8 or d44 is available to you I would probably go that direction, but I have read good things about the super 35 kit. I have actually thought about doing that myself. With 35's I would highly consider a truss also if you plan on the super 35.
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Old 08-23-2010, 04:02 PM   #10
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The PO probably is wanting the most "ideal" ratio for what his intentions are. So I would agree, 4.11's wouldnt be the best setup, 4.88's are more ideal.
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Originally Posted by BeepBeepImaJeep View Post
So tell me your thoughts on which 4" lift you guys like, what gear ratio with my setup, and how you like the super35kit. Thanks.
I dunno, I think he asked what I liked. I like the 4.11's that I use. :dunno:
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Old 08-23-2010, 04:07 PM   #11
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Forget the Super 35. It's not worth the money you'll spend on it. 8.8 or Dana 44 iare your best options. 4.88 or 4.56 gears. You won't be dissapointed with either of those gear setups. As far as the best 4" suspension goes: you get what you pay for there. Rubicon Express, Rock Crawler and Full Traction all have great designs.
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Old 08-23-2010, 04:23 PM   #12
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Having run 35's here are my thoughts:

4.56 was okay with the 35's.. 4.88 might be better, however pinion gear gets real small with the dana 30 at that point.

Don't forget to beef up the steering, currie HD kit works well for that.

What about brakes? 35's are big tires. I would look into the cost of a ford 8.8 with disc brakes or a used tj 44 with disc on it.

As for lift kits.. I ran the RE 4.5 super flex short arm. Only down side is the bushing wear. The currie kit is nice but cost a bit more.. so there are trade off's.
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Old 08-23-2010, 04:27 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee View Post
Actually, no, I'm running Dueler something-or-others cuz the 35's that the truck was sitting on were completely bald and the duelers came with it. Maybe all the rubber that came off the BFG M/T's lightened them up a ton, but it wasn't as sluggish as I expected.

They also rubbed in a good flex.
I saw your 4.10 ratio recommendation for 35" tires and I about fell off my seat. There's not an engine or transmission combination installed in a Jeep that would make 4.10 an appropriate ratio for 35" tires.

I ran 4.10 with 33" tires with my 4.0L and 5-speed and 4.10 wasn't enough gear for even 33" tires, let alone 35" tires. If you think 4.10 is good for 35" tires, even though you have no personal experience with that combination, you have simply not been exposed to a properly geared Jeep. And exactly what size tire are you running now? You evaded the question when pressed on what size tire you're running since you admitted you aren't actually running 35" tires yourself.

And one more thing... the factory stock ratio that Jeep installs into the Rubicon which comes with 31" tires is 4.10. So the factory feels 4.10 an appropriate ratio for 31" tires but you think 4.10 is also good for 35"? No way.

BeepBeepImaJeep, 4.88 is the appropriate ratio for 35" tires with your 4.0L engine and 5-speed transmission. I ran that ratio for years and it's the ideal ratio for that big of a tire. It produces optimal highway rpms so you don't have to downshift with every minor grade. The engine is operating dead-center in the right power band with that combination. 4.56 would kinda-sorta work too but you're slightly under geared with 4.56 and 35" tires.
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:46 PM   #14
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My opinion:

Ditch the D35 and swap in a Ford 8.8 or D44 with 4.88s, chromos and a Detroit locker.
4.88 R&P and a Lockright with chromo shafts in the D30.
Rock Krawler LA kit.
35" GY MTR w. Kevlar

I ran 35s and 4.88s with my 4.0 and NV3550 5spd for a couple years. Worked fine. Worked better with a 4 to 1 t-case, but that is another upgrade.

My last bit of advice, listen to the guys who wheel and have done so for a long time, not the noobs who have NOT experienced these scenarios.
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:47 PM   #15
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I dunno, I think he asked what I liked. I like the 4.11's that I use. :dunno:
The OP asked about advice for HIS set up he is going to run, not what you run, unless you have a 4.0, 5 spd and 35s.
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:51 PM   #16
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The OP asked about advice for HIS set up he is going to run, not what you run, unless you have a 4.0, 5 spd and 35s.
Which he does not, he is not running 35" tires.
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Old 08-23-2010, 08:44 PM   #17
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4.88's and a dana 44 rear would be a good investment, possibley depending on the level of wheeling you plan on doing a upgrade on front axle shafts may be in order aswell.

The dana 44 rear in my wrangler was the selling point when i bought it, its just about all it had going for it at the time being completley stock. Including siezed up unused transfer case shifter linkage, but it gets a workout nowadays.
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:57 PM   #18
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Well im not sure what anyone is running but I have 3.73 with a 4" Teraflex suspension lift and a 2" body lift and I'm running 37" tires. They were brand new and I traded a set of almost bald 33's for them just cause some guy wanted smaller tires so I was like .. Ok ... so I put them on just to see what It looks like but I'm not wheeling yet so they just on there for looks now.
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:01 PM   #19
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37" tires on standard Wrangler axles? Do you at least have a Dana 44 in the rear? If you have a Dana 35c rear axle, carry a set of spare axle shafts. Your front Dana 30 isn't really up to long-term health with 37" tires, not even if you installed a Super 30 kit. The problems you'll start noticing with your D30 and 37" tires is the steering won't hold up so be expecting tie rod and drag link issues, ball joints, and a general lack of braking power. Not to mention the inner/outer C's and axle tubes.
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:35 PM   #20
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jerry, okay i don't wanna sound cheap, but i dont trail hard enough for me to need a locker, but i want to move to 35s, could i run some chromoly 27spline shafts from Alloy USA

Alloy USA 12200 - Alloy USA Rear 27 Spline Peformance Axle Kit for 90-06 Jeep® Cherokee XJ, Wrangler YJ & TJ with Dana 35 Axle - Quadratec ?

would those support 35's? Ill be doing some braking upgrades and longer lines with the lift.

street use, light off roading - light enough for me to not really need a locker.
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:43 AM   #21
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jerry, okay i don't wanna sound cheap, but i dont trail hard enough for me to need a locker, but i want to move to 35s, could i run some chromoly 27spline shafts from Alloy USA

Alloy USA 12200 - Alloy USA Rear 27 Spline Peformance Axle Kit for 90-06 Jeep® Cherokee XJ, Wrangler YJ & TJ with Dana 35 Axle - Quadratec ?

would those support 35's? Ill be doing some braking upgrades and longer lines with the lift.

street use, light off roading - light enough for me to not really need a locker.
Why go through all the additional expense of running 35s if it's not going to see much offroading? Seems like a pretty expensive paperweight at that point. By the time you upgrade your steering, axles, brakes, tires, and driveline, you're going to have a pretty hefty chunk of change invested in what is essentially a mallcrawler.........
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:15 AM   #22
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You probably won't be happy with the zone kit offroad. For the money it is a cheaper lift but I've always said you get what you pay for with a lift.
Based off what, the hype about budget suspension lifts? I'd still stick with the Zone kit. For the money, I haven't heard any negative reviews about the kit. I've been shopping around and haven't found a kit I liked more for the same price range, and haven't found a bad review across multiple platforms (JK, WJ, etc.) Plus their customer service is A+. Forget about quotes for installation, take a Saturday and do it yourself. The job isn't difficult, just a little time consuming. Zone provides EXCELLENT instructions on the installation with pictures and "side-steps" to alleviate concerns.

The only thing I would do is skipping the superior 35 and going with a Ford 8.8 (requires more work but you can find them for $200) or a Dana 44 (you'll pay more but it's ready for a drop-in installation). It's worth the little extra money to not end up snapping an axle while going down the highway at 65.

You are going to want to regear to 4.88 in the long run. Don't listen to the rest of the hype, 4.11 is the ratio listed for highway cruising and fuel economy with 35 inch tires, so if it's what you have, then you can get away with it for the time being. Just don't expect a whole lot of power on the trails. 4.88 is the higher medium between power and daily driving. Changing your gearing is also not a DIFFICULT process, but it's a very precise job that requires a lot of patience so I don't recommend doing it yourself.

myjeeptj.com Blog Archive Gear ratio to tire size chart
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:29 AM   #23
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Based off what, the hype about budget suspension lifts? I'd still stick with the Zone kit. For the money, I haven't heard any negative reviews about the kit. I've been shopping around and haven't found a kit I liked more for the same price range, and haven't found a bad review across multiple platforms (JK, WJ, etc.) Plus their customer service is A+. Forget about quotes for installation, take a Saturday and do it yourself. The job isn't difficult, just a little time consuming. Zone provides EXCELLENT instructions on the installation with pictures and "side-steps" to alleviate concerns.

The only thing I would do is skipping the superior 35 and going with a Ford 8.8 (requires more work but you can find them for $200) or a Dana 44 (you'll pay more but it's ready for a drop-in installation). It's worth the little extra money to not end up snapping an axle while going down the highway at 65.

You are going to want to regear to 4.88 in the long run. Don't listen to the rest of the hype, 4.11 is the ratio listed for highway cruising and fuel economy with 35 inch tires, so if it's what you have, then you can get away with it for the time being. Just don't expect a whole lot of power on the trails. 4.88 is the higher medium between power and daily driving. Changing your gearing is also not a DIFFICULT process, but it's a very precise job that requires a lot of patience so I don't recommend doing it yourself.

myjeeptj.com Blog Archive Gear ratio to tire size chart
The "hype" is coming from some people who have more wheeling experience than you have years on this earth. How is that "hype"? 4.11 gears and 35" tires is going to be a DOG.
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Old 08-24-2010, 08:39 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by burton160w

Based off what, the hype about budget suspension lifts? I'd still stick with the Zone kit. For the money, I haven't heard any negative reviews about the kit. I've been shopping around and haven't found a kit I liked more for the same price range, and haven't found a bad review across multiple platforms (JK, WJ, etc.) Plus their customer service is A+. Forget about quotes for installation, take a Saturday and do it yourself. The job isn't difficult, just a little time consuming. Zone provides EXCELLENT instructions on the installation with pictures and "side-steps" to alleviate concerns.

The only thing I would do is skipping the superior 35 and going with a Ford 8.8 (requires more work but you can find them for $200) or a Dana 44 (you'll pay more but it's ready for a drop-in installation). It's worth the little extra money to not end up snapping an axle while going down the highway at 65.

You are going to want to regear to 4.88 in the long run. Don't listen to the rest of the hype, 4.11 is the ratio listed for highway cruising and fuel economy with 35 inch tires, so if it's what you have, then you can get away with it for the time being. Just don't expect a whole lot of power on the trails. 4.88 is the higher medium between power and daily driving. Changing your gearing is also not a DIFFICULT process, but it's a very precise job that requires a lot of patience so I don't recommend doing it yourself.

myjeeptj.com Blog Archive Gear ratio to tire size chart
Compare the control arms of zone to RE, currie, or any other "Johnny joint" lift. Physics states that you will NOT get the flex from stiff bushings compared to free swivel joints. That is not just MHO. You do get what you pay for.

Or worse, I have seen frame brackets snap from jeeps wanting to flex more than the control arms allow and I typically don't carry a welder.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:02 AM   #25
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burton160w Quote: "You are going to want to regear to 4.88 in the long run. Don't listen to the rest of the hype, 4.11 is the ratio listed for highway cruising and fuel economy with 35 inch tires, so if it's what you have, then you can get away with it for the time being." End quote....

And the OP has 3.73 gears, not 4.11..........
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:18 AM   #26
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Don't listen to the rest of the hype, 4.11 is the ratio listed for highway cruising and fuel economy with 35 inch tires
That is inexperience speaking there combined with a misunderstanding of how those charts work.

Those gear ratio charts only show the rpms when the transmission is in its 1.0:1 drive ratio. For the OP's 5-speed transmission, that means that chart is showing the rpms he would see while in 4th gear, not 5th. So 4.11 would only be a good ratio for 35" tires if you wanted to stay in 4th gear and never shift into 5th.

Not to mention having 4.11 with 35" tires would mean starting off in 1st gear would feel like starting off in 2nd gear with a properly geared Jeep.
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:22 AM   #27
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My opinion:

Ditch the D35 and swap in a Ford 8.8 or D44 with 4.88s, chromos and a Detroit locker.
4.88 R&P and a Lockright with chromo shafts in the D30.
Rock Krawler LA kit.
35" GY MTR w. Kevlar

I ran 35s and 4.88s with my 4.0 and NV3550 5spd for a couple years. Worked fine. Worked better with a 4 to 1 t-case, but that is another upgrade.

My last bit of advice, listen to the guys who wheel and have done so for a long time, not the noobs who have NOT experienced these scenarios.
I will reiterate.......

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