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Old 02-14-2013, 01:16 PM   #1
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Mud in my differential. sad face.

this is what caused my rear yoke to snap. luckily i was only going 10mph when the shaft dropped...
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:21 PM   #2
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oooh...but that is better than some of the rear diff fluids I have seen.

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Old 02-14-2013, 10:19 PM   #3
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Yikes... What caused mud to get in there? Vent not high enough? Leak?
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:21 PM   #4
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Ouch!!!!
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:51 AM   #5
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it was a leak... i didn't even notice it either.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:56 AM   #6
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it was a leak... i didn't even notice it either.
Wow, where was the leak? Input shaft seal? Output? Of as it from the cover? That looks pretty bad, how bad was the leak?
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:57 AM   #7
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Looks to me like a little bit of water contamination and fluid that hasn't been changed in a long time. Did the ring and pinion actually seize/ lock up? Contaminated fluid in and of itself won't cause a pinion yoke failure.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:58 AM   #8
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I noticed the seal doesn't encircle the bolt holes for the cover. Call me weird but I've always made sure to block that path.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:02 PM   #9
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Dana 35's have rubber fill plugs. Unless you take the extra time to clean and then seal the plug with some RTV, you can get water around the plug. It happens when you heat the diff up on the highway, then drive through a stream and dunk it in cold water. The air inside sucks water past the seals as it cools. You can help minimize this by keeping the vent line clear, but once you have a little water and foam in the diff, the vent is blocked and you get more water every time you dunk it.

Just one more reason not to own the D35. The other diffs have screw-in metal plugs.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:02 PM   #10
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Dana 35's have rubber fill plugs. Unless you take the extra time to clean and then seal the plug with some RTV, you can get water around the plug. It happens when you heat the diff up on the highway, then drive through a stream and dunk it in cold water. The air inside sucks water past the seals as it cools. You can help minimize this by keeping the vent line clear, but once you have a little water and foam in the diff, the vent is blocked and you get more water every time you dunk it.

Just one more reason not to own the D35. The other diffs have screw-in metal plugs.

yeah that makes sense. whats sad, is i've only have this jeep two months and never submerged it. i'll make sure to keep an eye on the vent line from now on. just got the quote from the shop for a $1000. good times...

can you get the screw in metal plug for the 35?
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:22 PM   #11
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You can get a good cover with a screw in plug for $100.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:34 PM   #12
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For $1000, get a Dana 44 or a Ford 8.8" from an Explorer in place of that Dana 35.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:36 PM   #13
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Since you only had the Jeep for two months, I suggest doing a full fluid change instead of repeating this post in a month or two with a buggered front diff or t-case.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:48 PM   #14
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yeah that makes sense. whats sad, is i've only have this jeep two months and never submerged it. i'll make sure to keep an eye on the vent line from now on. just got the quote from the shop for a $1000. good times...

can you get the screw in metal plug for the 35?
Instead of spending a grqnd to fix the crappy 35 y don't u just buy a 44 and bolt it up instead should cost about the same
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:09 PM   #15
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yeah i just told them to look for a 44, we'll see what it comes out to be. the other option would be to change the front and back gears from 307 to 373, and might at well do a limited slip. which i'm not sure if it would be worth the 1900 he's asking. or just the 1000 for the fix...
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:25 PM   #16
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yeah i just told them to look for a 44, we'll see what it comes out to be. the other option would be to change the front and back gears from 307 to 373, and might at well do a limited slip. which i'm not sure if it would be worth the 1900 he's asking. or just the 1000 for the fix...
I would find a 44 for the rear and then find a hp dana 30 out of a cherokee with 3.73s should be bolt in and I mean direct bolt in like should be able to do it with basic hand tools so u can do it urself, would be a learning experience and save some cash plus u would then have stronger front and rear axles, but that's just my opinion, only reason I didn't change my 35 when the spiders went out in it was cuz I was able to fix it for like 100 bucks, but I'm already saving for a swap in the near future
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:40 PM   #17
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I change my diff oil 4 times a year. we wheel in mostly mud, water, Also get condention in it. doesnt matter what kind of diff will still get water in it.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:17 PM   #18
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Well its settled. I'm gonna get a 44 with 373's with a limited slip. might as well since they're down there... I think it'll be worth it in the long run.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:24 PM   #19
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Yup, i run a 44 in the front of my jeep. pretty strong. And a 44 in the rear of my CJ 5.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:26 PM   #20
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well, they're gonna pull a d44 from an 05 rubicon disc brakes and positrack. installation plus changing out the front gears is gonna run me 3 grand...
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:35 PM   #21
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Just curious, if you don't mind sharing, how much of that 3 grand is installation fees and how much is parts?
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:40 PM   #22
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Just curious, if you don't mind sharing, how much of that 3 grand is installation fees and how much is parts?
it was 2k for the axle, which i'm sure they marked up. they said removal of the old and install of the new with changing the front gears was 1k. i think its a little steep. but they we already taking the old axle apart. maybe they added the labor of what they already put into the old one.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:02 PM   #23
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it was 2k for the axle, which i'm sure they marked up. they said removal of the old and install of the new with changing the front gears was 1k. i think its a little steep. but they we already taking the old axle apart. maybe they added the labor of what they already put into the old one.
Yea that is a little steep even for a rubi axle just make sure they install the locker switches to, cuz if its a rubi axle it has a locker not positraction
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:08 PM   #24
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Yea that is a little steep even for a rubi axle just make sure they install the locker switches to, cuz if its a rubi axle it has a locker not positraction
i just called up there to double check. he said it is definitely going to be posi once he's done with it.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:31 PM   #25
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i just called up there to double check. he said it is definitely going to be posi once he's done with it.
Nononononono u don't want him to do that deff want him to leave it as a stock selectable rubi locker that's the only reason its worth more than a normal d44 which can be found for 8-900
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:23 PM   #26
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Nononononono u don't want him to do that deff want him to leave it as a stock selectable rubi locker that's the only reason its worth more than a normal d44 which can be found for 8-900
whoa, I would probably have to die and go to heaven to find a dana 44 around San Francisco for $900... Around here rubicon 44's are like 2500 and regular dana 44's are like $1800-$2000...
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:02 AM   #27
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whoa, I would probably have to die and go to heaven to find a dana 44 around San Francisco for $900... Around here rubicon 44's are like 2500 and regular dana 44's are like $1800-$2000...
So do you go with a ford 8.8 then? We can get them in OR for $150-$250 with disk brakes. Add in an ARB, regear, installation kit, etc and you are still under $1500 built. Thats my plan anyways when my locked D35 explodes here any day now ...
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:30 AM   #28
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whoa, I would probably have to die and go to heaven to find a dana 44 around San Francisco for $900... Around here rubicon 44's are like 2500 and regular dana 44's are like $1800-$2000...
Wow and I thought they were a lil high down here. U could always get one from daveys jeeps and have it shipped in

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