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Old 06-04-2013, 10:13 PM   #1
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Need help please, TJ getting warm.....

Hi,

I'm having heating issues with my 03 4.0/5sp TJ with 85k miles.

Short back story to get you up to speed..... A few weeks ago driving home from work(80ish degree day) it just suddenly heats up enough to trigger the idiot light. I cranked the heater up and pulled over to check it out.
(In the 6 months I've owed this jeep the temp needle has never wavered once up to temp, needle showing right at 200, no matter how easy or hard I drove it.)
The hoses are all still good, no leaks other than the water pump weep hole is dripping some. So the next day I get a new WP, T-stat(195') and rad hoses and install them. Filled it with water/coolant, idled it to warm up, refilled as it purged the air from the system, capped it and no leaks. Idled it for 15mins or so while I cleaned up my mess and the needle stayed just under the 210 mark.
The next day driving to work 5am about 50' out its running just above the 210 mark. On the way home(70ish degrees)) the temp keep wanting to creep up on me while driving at 60mph, if I stop at a light it comes back down to 200. Repeated this several times to verify. This tells me my rad is somewhat plugged. Call the parts house, yep got one, $125. Swap it out tonight and doing the same damn thing afterwards.....

I'm lost as to what could be causing it to do this?????

No water in my oil or anything strange, still runs great around town but hit the road at 60 and it starts to heat up.

Help????

Thanks in advance!

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Old 06-04-2013, 11:02 PM   #2
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I think I would do a compression test on it after looking over the spark plugs.
I've heard that some of our 4.0 engines have had headgasket and head cracking issues. Certainly not something you wanted to hear, but it may well hold your answer.. Also do a pressure test on the cooling system. If the headgasket is cooked or their is a crack, it will typically pee coolant into the cylinder(s)..

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Old 06-04-2013, 11:55 PM   #3
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I think I would do a compression test on it after looking over the spark plugs.
I've heard that some of our 4.0 engines have had headgasket and head cracking issues. Certainly not something you wanted to hear, but it may well hold your answer.. Also do a pressure test on the cooling system. If the headgasket is cooked or their is a crack, it will typically pee coolant into the cylinder(s)..
Thanks for the response, I'll try a comp test but nothing says HG or cracked head. Still runs great, no miss, no loss of coolant, no milkshake on the dipstick, no ballooning of the rad hoses, no steam out the exhaust pipe.
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:52 AM   #4
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How about the O2 sensor. I had similar troubles with my van overheating. It would be fine for a bit then go up and down. Checked everywhere nothing was leaking or cracked. Took it in and they hooked it up to the comp and sure enough the oxygen sensor had gone bad.
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:13 PM   #5
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How about the O2 sensor. I had similar troubles with my van overheating. It would be fine for a bit then go up and down. Checked everywhere nothing was leaking or cracked. Took it in and they hooked it up to the comp and sure enough the oxygen sensor had gone bad.
Not sure on that one, I have one of those cheap $50 hand held scanners and its not throwing any codes.
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:18 PM   #6
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Is your coolant overflowing into the overflow bottle?
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:08 PM   #7
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Last summer mine started to creep up a little above the 210 mark. Then one day last summer when it got up to 110 outside it overheated. I added some coolant and started diagnosing the problem by replacing the radiator cap first. That seemed to be my problem. No problem since and it got pretty hot a couple times after that! I only paid for $4.25 for that part so it can't hurt to just change it. Mine is an 18psi and it's made by Stant.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:29 PM   #8
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+1 on the rad cap. Looks like you've covered damn near everything else.
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:52 PM   #9
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Is your coolant overflowing into the overflow bottle?
Nope not pushing any coolant into the overflow. I marked its level with a sharpie the other day.

Had a 16lb rad cap on it, swapped it for a new 18lb today. Seemed to help some but still ran about 220-230 on the way home. It's 81 degrees here today.
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:23 PM   #10
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Check the fan clutch?
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:38 PM   #11
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Check the fan clutch?
The fan does next to nothing at highway speed as far as cooling goes.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:07 PM   #12
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The fan does next to nothing at highway speed as far as cooling goes.
Not 100% true. Partly yes. But say the fan isn't moving helping push the air that's rushing in through the shroud, then it goes every which way, and doesn't add the air cool side
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:45 PM   #13
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x3 for radiator cap. Or head gasket ;(
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:49 AM   #14
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So if it does turn out to be a cracked head, who is the best to go through for a remanufactured head?
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:55 PM   #15
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Had a cherokee that was acting similar... Mechanic told me to pull the pan and check out the crankshaft bearings. One had spun, others were worn. that extra friction was causing it to heat up at highway speeds and with any get up n go driving. ease off and it would cool back off. After a new set of bearings, no more heating up.....
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:48 PM   #16
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It did turn out to be either the head or head gasket, it's now blowing bubbles in the coolant.
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:52 PM   #17
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hopefully just need to burp the system better, I know if it is not completely burped it will raise in temp..
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:24 AM   #18
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So if it does turn out to be a cracked head, who is the best to go through for a remanufactured head?
I would look into a local rebuilder first and then national chains like NAPA. I don't know if Chrysler Corp has an aftermarket sales program like Ford and Chevrolet, but searching for something like that may be a good option as well.. Both GM (has the Goodwrench series) and Ford (Ford Racing) offer some pretty nice deals on remanufactured and even new engines and components..

Meanwhile, you might want to consider bypassing your heater core, flush and install a ceramic cooling system sealer like this one below which actually works if the leak is slight like yours seems to be:

http://www.irontite.com/store/index....&products_id=1

Moroso also offers this stuff and you can find it marketed by a number of other manufacturers as well.. While they claim it is a permanent repair - I don't think I would count on it being permanent.

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