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Old 03-26-2009, 03:52 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
Well then maybe I am wrong, thats why I said it makes me curious to know more.

No I never said I'm an expert on gear lubes, but have learned and read things over the years and from different forums on which specs to look for on the bottles.

Chris
When an Amsoil rep also tried to argue that synthetic was still best in this application, here's something written on the same subject by a guy who makes my gear lube knowledge look like what my daughter would know about gear lubes... JeepForum.com - View Single Post - best synthetic differential oil ???

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Old 03-26-2009, 03:57 PM   #32
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Interesting and nice read.... Hmmm has me thinking now.... LOL

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Old 03-26-2009, 04:10 PM   #33
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But would you agree, that reading the specs or ratings becomes an important part of what fluids to put in.
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Old 03-26-2009, 04:30 PM   #34
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So im getting confused

Should I just run standard diff oil now instead of standard?
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Old 03-26-2009, 06:06 PM   #35
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so if I use oem fluids I'll never go wrong?
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:18 PM   #36
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well after further review I stand corrected and looks like the standard conventional diff fluid is the way to go.
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:48 PM   #37
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Cool cool. same weight?
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:03 AM   #38
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With 33"x12.5" tires with a 3" or 3.5" lift on a 15x8 wheel is 4" of backspacing OK?
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Old 03-27-2009, 10:34 AM   #39
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4" to 4.25" of backspacing is ideal for that and most lifts/15x8 wheel/12.5" wide tire combinations.
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Old 03-28-2009, 11:10 AM   #40
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I read in Petersen's 4wheel and Off Road magazine that a '93-98 Grand Cherokee V8 lower tie rod is much beefier than the stock TJ tie rod and it bolts in place with no modifications. I checked autozone, but I keep seeing left side tie rod end and right side tie rod end. Does somebody have the part number I am looking for?

Also just had the shop order my SYE, Driveshaft and 3" lift

The seller should be at my house soon so photos up in a while.
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Old 03-28-2009, 11:35 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by jamesbernatchez View Post
I read in Petersen's 4wheel and Off Road magazine that a '93-98 Grand Cherokee V8 lower tie rod is much beefier than the stock TJ tie rod and it bolts in place with no modifications. I checked autozone, but I keep seeing left side tie rod end and right side tie rod end. Does somebody have the part number I am looking for?

Also just had the shop order my SYE, Driveshaft and 3" lift

The seller should be at my house soon so photos up in a while.
Look at the Currie set up
Part #: CE-9701
$399.95

Description: The Currie Currectlync® heavy duty tie rod and drag link system for TJ, LJ, XJ, and MJ vehicles features, a 1 ¼" diameter forged alloy drag link, and 1 ¼" solid alloy steel tie rod bar that is bored and threaded on the ends. All 7/8" thread tie rod ends with boots are included as well as the Currie heavy duty steering stabilizer bracket. This unit is a direct replacement for the stock parts. No modifications or machining to any part of the vehicle is necessary. This unit is rated at 200% stronger than the stock components.
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Old 03-28-2009, 12:25 PM   #42
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Thanks Duck! Will definitely look into that.
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Old 03-28-2009, 12:28 PM   #43
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Thumbs up Welcome 2 Forum

First and foremost, go to the nearest autoparts store and buy a Haynes or equivilant manual. That will give you all the factory specifications for about $20.... Are you mechanically inclined??? The lift you can do with a lift and tools. Little Big Project... I suggest you go to a Walmart and buy the semi-synthetic oils (Mobil 1) or (Valvoline)for your transmission, transfer case, and engine for about $25 for 5 gallons.
With a star pattern socket you can drain and pump the new fluid in yourself instead of paying the lift guy. The front and rear differential covers are just removed, cleaned, regasketed, and the same process of pumping thick gear fluid is done...EASY 1,2,3........
Get to know your JEEP......Especially if your miles from nowwhere and something breaks.......Carry some tools in a little box too
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Old 03-29-2009, 08:56 AM   #44
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The guy gave me the Haynes manual with the Jeep and I have already order the correct Jeep Factory manual also. I already picked up the spark plugs, oil & oil filter, and air filter. I plan to go back later today to get a torque wrench and diff fluid as I feel I am capable of doing the diffs. Might even be able to do the tranny and transfer case, but I am going to wait on those.

The shop owner is charging me about $600 to install the 3" lift, SYE, and Driveshaft. I am ok with that this time. I do plan to learn more about my Jeep as I go.

What do I use to regasket the diffs? For the front, does the lower tie rod (I think that might be what it is called) that is in front of the diff cover need to be removed or is there enough clearance to get the cover off leaving the tie rod on?

Thanks guys! It is raining today, but I figured I would pull it into the garage to some some work.
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:33 AM   #45
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Well I finally got a few photos. I did a bunch to the Jeep today. Changed the air filter, oil and oil filter, spark plugs, and the rear diff fluid. Plan to do the tranny and the front diff after work tomorrow. I also removed the side steps. When I removed the driver side step the last bolt wouldn't come out so I pushed the step down and bent the bolt out. Only thing is the frame has a slight "protrusion" from doing so. The threaded part came right out. It is the lower hole that I am talking about in the photos below. Is this reason for concern? I can still put the top two screws in.




And a few quick photos of my new baby!



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Old 09-28-2009, 03:42 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesbernatchez View Post
When I removed the driver side step the last bolt wouldn't come out so I pushed the step down and bent the bolt out. Only thing is the frame has a slight "protrusion" from doing so. The threaded part came right out. It is the lower hole that I am talking about in the photos below. Is this reason for concern?
Depends on how much force you had to apply to cause that protrusion. The frame looks good from the outside, but if it's rusting badly from the inside out, it may not be as noticeable.
However, from what I can tell, with where you have the jack stand, and looking into the oblong hole next to it, I don't see anything to worry about, as far as a compromise of strength due to rust and thinning of material.

If you're worried about how it looks, pull the plastic/nylon insert and take a ball peen hammer to it and reinstall the insert or replace with a new one. Othwerwise, there should be no cause for alarm.


Congrats on your purchase and on joining the Jeeping family. I, personally am the very proud owner of a 2005 Wrangler X "Willys Edition", complete with the star and numbers/letters on the hood. Mine is a 4.0 with the NSG370 6 speed manual trans. I currently have only a 2" BB (budget boost), which is basically a "puck" lift that installs on top of the stock coils. Plus an addition of some "take off" Wrangler Rubicon rims/tires, on the stock and open diff Dana 30 & 35 axles.

With your RE 3.5" lift and 33's you will easily be able to handle far more than I am capable of, especially if you also plan on, or have, lockers or limited slip installed in your axles, but here are some videos of what I've done with my minimal setup.

YouTube - GeneralTJWillys's Channel

Check especially, the Harlan on the rocks video. Still have some more to post, but I believe there's 5 right now. My little Wrangler has amazed me (as well as many others) with what it will do.
Oh, and I've had no issues with breakage, only some interesting dents and a couple of worn and creaky u-joints to change to date.

I wheel it pretty hard for how it's set up.

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