Sorry another no heat thread.. But i thought for sure it was my blower motor because when driving highway speeds i could feel a small amount of air coming through the vents.
Just put the new blower motor in and still no air. When i turn the heat off i can hear the blower motor shutdown. What can it be? It seems there is power getting to the motor, some type of doors stuck shut? Blower doors, blend doors?
If not did you check the switch and resistor on the dash controls?
If the fan is working, then as you said, check blend door, make sure it opens and closes when you adjust the heat settings. I think the other doors are possibly vacuum operated??...not 100% sure though
It sounds like it might be on the low speed setting which is very low & might not even feel like it’s on. Make sure the speed knob is not spinning on the shaft. Pull it off & try turning the shaft with pliers to see if you get any other speeds to work. Or the switch might be bad losing the other 3 speeds.
Im pretty sure the fan is working, because when i turn the heat off i can hear the blower shut down behind the glove area. And i dont believe it is stuck on one speed, when im still there is absolutely nothing coming out, highway speeds i can feel a minor amount coming through. During highway speeds i switched the temp to cold and it did change to cold, so i think the blend doors may be fine.
F your fan is only working on full speed, its the resistor pack thats gone, easy to replace from the passenger footwell
Also, what year is your Jeep, as later model vents are operated via vacuum. The vacuum line from the manifold perished on mine, hence controls stop working, and what you describe sound very much the same ..
The reason I asked about the air bag light was this. My air bag light began coming on and when it did, I lost my fan for the A.C / Heat. The compressor still worked and like you I could feel the cold air coming from the vents at speed.
The air bag light coming on not only effected the fan, but my back up lights also would not come on. Trying to put those three things together got the best of me. I ended up at the Jeep dealer who tracked the issue down to a new ignition.
$ 120.00 bucks later....all is good.
2014 Jeep Wrangler JKR
Yeah,I gotta change the Pic
Love the Rubicon, but already miss the TJ.
Yes, I guess you did! The heat from that connector/switch caused the panel plastic to melt. Get the switch & pigtail if you want or just connect the wires separately using crimp/solder on terminals. That way you can make sure each connection is tight making solid contact with the switch. Just keep tract of the order the wires go on the switch.
It is hard to tell from that photo but unless the panel plastic it so bad that you can't remount the switch or something you shouldn't need to replace it. The mode switch shown in the 2nd photo needs replacing & is one part with both electrical & vacuum connections.Here is what I think you need.
Ok so i put the new vacuum switch in and its working now... I still did not splice the three wired plug that goes into the vacuum switch. Its working without them right now, But... It only works on high so next comes the resistor.
Also the heat is luke warm, i'll take it for now lol but what do you think? Flush the heater core?
In the pic you see above, the three separate wires that you see that were inside of the plug that melted. When either of the other two are touching the terminal to the far right, it sparks and the heat works. But after i shut the car off the wires are all very hot. If i connect them im afraid theyre going to melt the vacuum switch again.
My 2000 did the same thing I added larger gage wire and made my own connections I found that one connections were arching and that the connector would clip tight but the terminals were poor fit. Hope it helps
Yes, a bad or lose connection will cause high resistance & that causes high heat. Also when you touch the 2 heavier wires (dark green to black) make sure they have a good clean contact area. Since that black one looks burnt, make sure to clean it. That is the ground wire. You can also jump the green one directly to a good ground to test for hot wires. The lighter gauge green wire is for the a/c compressor so don’t worry about that one for now. You should cut the terminals off & replace them then plug them in & run it that way to see if the wires get hot. If that works then decide if you even want to replace the pigtail. In some ways I like the individual wires rather than the connector because you can be sure each connection is tight. With the connector if 2 are tight & 1 is lose you won’t be able to tell that but the lose one will cause high resistance & heat. As robert0069 says.
I don’t know how hot those wires should get but with your new blower motor the load shouldn’t be excessive. Double check the connections at the speed switch, resistor & the motor itself. Any lose connections there will raise the resistance as noted earlier. As stated it is hard to check within a connector but at least see if any of the other wires are hot. Carefully inspect the terminals for signs of excessive heat. When checking try each of the speeds for heating at any wires including at the mode switch. That might isolate the hot wires to when on just one speed.
Defrost is the default position when you have no vacuum. Are you running the engine when this happens? Since you replaced the mode switch you may be losing it there. See if the black vacuum line behind the switch is getting vacuum (engine running). If not go under the hood & check at the intake manifold & the vacuum reservoir under the battery in the fender well. If good vacuum at the black line check the connections at the switch & to the actuators.
Everything seems to be working well now, heat still not too hot but i'll see if flushing the heater core will help. Put a new resistor in and its all good in the hood now. Hopefully this switch doesn't melt on me as well. (For a while at least)