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Old 05-19-2013, 07:35 AM   #1
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Odd electrical issues

2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport
4.0 5 Spd
104500 miles
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Starts up, everything is 100%, good to go. Occasionally, after driving for a while, the electrical will stop working. Lights, turn signals, AC, etc. If you turn the jeep off and start it back up, everything's good again. This happens after 30 minutes + of driving it.

Also, maybe unrelated, but no less disconcerting...one out of every 10 starts produces this sound that's a mix between a scrubbing, wheezing, or like a vacuum going a million miles an hour. It makes this sound when the clutch is fully depressed. If you take your foot off the clutch a bit, it goes away, and comes right back when you push it back to the floor. Turn it off and back on and you're golden. The original key was bent a bit, and I found that if I inserted it with a certain side facing me, it would make the sound more often, whereas the other side wouldn't. I got some new keys made, hoping that would alleviate the issue, but it didn't. Once out of every 10 starts it still makes this sound.

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Old 05-19-2013, 08:14 AM   #2
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Sounds like your electrical problem is a bad ground, do you have taillight guards?

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Old 05-19-2013, 08:57 AM   #3
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Sounds like your electrical problem is a bad ground, do you have taillight guards?
Yes
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:08 AM   #4
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Yes
Remove them, the tail lamps ground through the mounting screws and installing the guards are well known for causing poor grounds and numerous electrical issues. It's the first place I would start.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:12 AM   #5
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Remove them, the tail lamps ground through the mounting screws and installing the guards are well known for causing poor grounds and numerous electrical issues. It's the first place I would start.
Thanks I'll give that a try.
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:41 AM   #6
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Your other issue sounds like a throw out bearing that's on it's last legs if releasing the clutch stops it.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:31 AM   #7
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Your other issue sounds like a throw out bearing that's on it's last legs if releasing the clutch stops it.
Public service announcement... Don't stand on your clutch @ a stop light, put it in neutral. Not @ the OP, just a general statement for all manual t drivers. I was told that when I was a kid and it's stuck w/ me over the years. Not trying to be some know it all, I just want to help save some $ for fellow TJ owners.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:52 AM   #8
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Public service announcement... Don't stand on your clutch @ a stop light, put it in neutral. Not @ the OP, just a general statement for all manual t drivers. I was told that when I was a kid and it's stuck w/ me over the years. Not trying to be some know it all, I just want to help save some $ for fellow TJ owners.
How is putting the transmission in neutral and releasing the clutch at a stop light going to save money? Just asking been driving manual transmissions for 40 years never heard of this or done any damage by holding the clutch peddle to the floor. Just asking!
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:19 AM   #9
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The throw out bearing is under stress while the clutch is "in", not in neutral. Sitting at a stop w/ the clutch in is like 100 shifts to that poor bearing. Expensive to fix too!
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:37 PM   #10
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As I said before, I'm not a know it all. I can only speak of what was told to me by guys I really trust, military trained mechanics. Anyone who wants to chime in would be appreciated.
Sorry, don't want to hijack your thread!!
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:49 PM   #11
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Not only is it a good idea to not hold the clutch in at redlights but its also a good idea to start your engine with the manual trans in nuetral and your foot of the clutch pedal. That saves the throwout bearing and the Main Thrust bearing in the engine.

And if you've ever had a clutch disc stuck to the flywheel it saves some embarrassment and possible garage door damage
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:01 PM   #12
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not only is it a good idea to not hold the clutch in at redlights but its also a good idea to start your engine with the manual trans in nuetral and your foot of the clutch pedal. That saves the throwout bearing and the main thrust bearing in the engine.

And if you've ever had a clutch disc stuck to the flywheel it saves some embarrassment and possible garage door damage
x2
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasbroderick View Post
2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport
4.0 5 Spd
104500 miles
---

Starts up, everything is 100%, good to go. Occasionally, after driving for a while, the electrical will stop working. Lights, turn signals, AC, etc. If you turn the jeep off and start it back up, everything's good again. This happens after 30 minutes + of driving it.
Another thing to look at, try unplugging your ignition switch connector and examine both the connector and switch for any signs of heat discoloration. Sometimes the contacts inside the switch overheat and loose connection and sometimes the terminals inside the connector are loose and overheat ue to high resistance. If you notice power comes back when you touch or move the key this could be your problem.
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:34 PM   #14
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I too have always been told to shift to neutral at red lights, for the exact same reason.
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:24 PM   #15
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Just wanted to update the thread

The suggestion to remove the metal covers on the tail lights seems to have solved the electrical issue. I drove it (A LOT) today and had zero issues with any electrical. Thanks a bunch!


As for the scrub sound with the clutch...if it were a throwout bearing that was going out, wouldn't it make a weird noise every time? Or just half the times that I put the clutch pedal down or something? This problem is like you turn it on without the sound, and the sound never comes while it's on. Or you turn it on with the sound, and the sound is there every time the clutch pedal is depressed. Also it's more like 33% of the time now instead of 1 in 10 starts. I'm going to be taking it to a mechanic tomorrow to see what they have to say about it, and I'll keep you guys posted.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:11 AM   #16
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Good suggestion on the taillight guards. I've been blowing fuses for months now. They alternate between brake light, taillight, and turn signal fuses, in no particular order. I'll check it out tmrw evening and post the results.
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:43 PM   #17
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Just wanted to keep the thread updated:

The odd sound from starting the vehicle turned out to be that my ignition sticks and I hadn't noticed. All it takes is to make sure it doesn't stick and you're golden, haha.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:16 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Redrider94 View Post
How is putting the transmission in neutral and releasing the clutch at a stop light going to save money? Just asking been driving manual transmissions for 40 years never heard of this or done any damage by holding the clutch peddle to the floor. Just asking!
Like you, I have been driving sticks for 40+ years and have always held the clutch in at stops. While releasing the throwout bearing at stops does make them stop spinning, thus maybe saving a little wear, throwout bearings are made to spin (bearings) and the fact is that in 200,000 miles of driving, you're going to have to replace it once (along with the clutch) either way.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:56 AM   #19
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Good suggestion on the taillight guards. I've been blowing fuses for months now. They alternate between brake light, taillight, and turn signal fuses, in no particular order. I'll check it out tmrw evening and post the results.
Any update?
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:11 PM   #20
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Like you, I have been driving sticks for 40+ years and have always held the clutch in at stops. While releasing the throwout bearing at stops does make them stop spinning, thus maybe saving a little wear, throwout bearings are made to spin (bearings) and the fact is that in 200,000 miles of driving, you're going to have to replace it once (along with the clutch) either way.
There are enough people with premature throwout bearing failure that the above advice in post #7 to not continually hold the clutch pedal down at stop lights is completely sound and with technical merit. Doing so simply causes accelerated wear on the throwout bearing which only spins when the clutch pedal is being held down.

Too many people have to offer the following advice way too often... "while you're in there replacing your throwout bearing, you might as well replace your clutch". So it's not just that the throwout bearing is replaced anyway when the clutch is replaced, it is not uncommon that people replace their clutch sooner than normal simply because their throwout bearing failed prematurely.

The percentage of time the throwout bearing is in use is much higher when you are in the bad habit of holding the clutch pedal to the floor at stop lights vs. shifting into Neutral and using it only while shifting as it was designed for.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:17 PM   #21
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Public service announcement... Don't stand on your clutch @ a stop light, put it in neutral. Not @ the OP, just a general statement for all manual t drivers. I was told that when I was a kid and it's stuck w/ me over the years. Not trying to be some know it all, I just want to help save some $ for fellow TJ owners.
Yeah, I heard that statement before. Thanks for the reminder!
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:43 AM   #22
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Update: I removed the trailer wiring harness that the precious owner installed. Seems to have fixed my fuse blowing bonanza so far. Never got around to messing with the taillight guards, but I imagine that wouldn't have caused a short anyway... just a bad ground.

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