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Old 03-09-2011, 03:34 PM   #1
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Oil pan removal help please! 4.0L

Hey Jeepers. I'm having trouble with removing the oil pan. I removed all of the bolts from the pan and it's just dangling but is being held up by a rubber piece in the back that's connected to the inspection plate. How do I get it off of there?

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Old 03-09-2011, 04:06 PM   #2
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I just removed an 05 4.0L LJ oil pan a month back. There is a half moon piece of plastic that goes against the pan and inspection plate by the rear main. It should wiggle down once you get the two bolts out in that piece. I also had to remove the exhast and starter but I am guessing you are past that point

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Old 05-17-2011, 03:58 PM   #3
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2004 6 cylinder oil pan replacement, full details

- Just did a full oil pan replacement so recorded it in detail:
- For a 2004 jeep wrangler 6 cylinder, 5 speed manual, 4 inch suspension lift and 1 inch
ProComp body lift.
- Order an MOPAR OEM gasket and oil pan. It will make for an easier replacement. Even
with the same part number oil pan,
the front holes were slightly off. One piece OEM MOPAR gasket makes it easier.
- Obtain shop manual online. Has some good ideas.
- Ensure you have some sort of long arm floor hydraulic jack as an assistant.
- Buy a 2x4 foot large sheet metal oil floor drip pan[Wal-Mart about 8 bucks].
- Have plenty of disposable shop towels on hand.
- Metric deep and regular sockets, wrenches. Torque wrench of some sort.
-
- Remove negative from battery.
- My jeep has a 4 inch suspension and 1 inch body lift so no need to jack it up for more
room.
- Start by removing exhaust-pipe bolts off header. Spray with liquid wrench first and let
sit overnight. 4 of these.
- My 6 cylinder engine was mostly metric. Some of these bolts are a straight up fit with
socket and some require a universal. Some a hand
wrench.
- Remove all bolts except one. Let hang loosely and block up the pipe with some scrap
wood blocks.
- Disconnect the two electrical connectors for the bottom half oxygen sensors. These are
tricky. Be very careful not to damage the
sensors or the connectors.
- Other end of tailpipe has to be removed at muffler. My body lift shroud had to first be
removed in order to gain access to
the end of the pipe. Note that removing this collapsed the drive linkage and other
areas by around an inch so a hydraulic floor
jack is required to do this to take the weight off the bolts for removal. I placed the
jack in the center of the shroud and raised it enough
to take the weight off the 6 shroud bolts. This will also put the suspension out of kilter
enough to make the engine fan rub on it's shroud.
- After shroud released, I disconnected the two bolts connecting pipe to front of muffler.
These needed to be sprayed with liquid wrench and
let sit overnight first also. Note these require deep sockets.
- After all bolts removed, I removed the last remaining bolt connecting the pipe to the
header and slowly dropped the entire pipe unit to
the ground and set aside. The pipe bracket near the muffler requires pulling forward
and then down.
- Drain oil and remove filter. Place new filter on and tighten. Let drain overnight if
possible.
- Tighten oil drain plug.
-
- Begin removing oil pan bolts. I roughly drew the bolt locations on a piece of paper first
since mine had 3 different lengths/styles.
- Mark each bolt length/style position as it is removed, on the paper. Mine had 28 bolts.
- Leave a bolt in each corner slightly in place so it doesn't come crashing down if loose.
- Note that there is a half-moon rubber collar with metal inset around rear main shroud.
Clean all the crud out of this area first. Two bolts
connect this to the main block and you may have to wrangle this out a little bit but it
should come out. Wear safety glasses as there is
a lot of dirt up in there.
- Place large drip pan under oil pan and slightly tap oil pan until it comes loose and
hangs on remaining bolts left in place. Remove
remaining bolts and slowly drop oil pan to floor. Be careful of dipstick and oil pump
suction when pulling down. There is still oil in the pan.
- Remove old gasket. On mine there were only 4 points, at the factory, where sealant
was used. These were at the points where the perpendicular
curved areas of the gasket started. These pulled off with a little help. Everything else
was dry.
- Let drain overnight with the oil pan removed, if possible before cleaning.
- Note I did not have to remove the starter assembly to do this on my engine. Straight
drop down but had to be tipped slightly for removal.
- Be anal about cleaning the contact points on the block for the new gasket. I used CRC
brake cleaner to remove everything. I removed
every speck of old sealant, I then took a small brass brush and brushed the lip around
the block and re-cleaned. Razor blades
and a small, sharp pocket knife work good as tools here also.
- The CRC brake cleaner leaves no residue which is what you want here. Any residue
and the gasket will not seal since it is a dry seal.
- Clean the lip around the new oil pan also. Avoid finger prints etc on paint of new oil
pan.
-
- The shop manual recommends a MOPAR gasket sealant for re-install. I went to the
permatex cross reference substitution list and the equivalent is permatex "The Right
Stuff" gasket maker. You only need 4 dabs so buy as small a container as possible[3
oz, I believe].
- The shop manual also recommends making 4 "dowels" by finding 4 bolts that match
the oil pan bolt threads. I found that old brass
toilet bowl bolts[long ones] fit the bill for this engine. Cut the heads off and hacksaw a
slot into the top of each. Place one of these
into each of the 4 corners of the engine block. Make sure finger tight. The one by the
starter assembly couldn't be exactly in the corner
since the pan has to be tipped slightly to get around it.
- Dab sealant into the 4 corners of the engine block where each curve begins.
Remember, less is more here. Don't need much. Prepare
to work quickly here. Have everything laid out for the oil pan assembly.
- Slide new gasket over 4 dowel bolts up onto engine block. The dowels should provide
enough tension to hold the gasket in place. Pay
particular attention to the rear area since there are little indentations at the base of
the curve that the gasket fits into. Except for the 4
dabs of sealant, everything else goes up dry. The 4 dowels allow you to do this and
position everything correctly.
- Slide up new oil pan and begin putting in bolts according to your bolt "map" that you
previously made. Note that you will have to tip the
oil pan slightly to get behind the starter assembly. The 4 dowels should provide correct
re-assembly.
- Hand tighten all bolts with a socket and extension. Do not torque yet. Make sure pan is
snug against gasket. Replace "dowels" with correct
bolts.
- I used a beam torque wrench to torque the bolts. Starting at the center and criss-cross
out until all felt about right. If you over tighten you will
create small gaps in the pan which will lead to leaks. I was surprised, when I removed
my oil pan, how little force I had to use to loosen the
bolts, from the factory.Torque specs are in shop manual.
- Pay particular attention to the half moon rubber shroud up against rear main shroud.
Make sure these two are nice and tight early since
"the right stuff" is supposed to set in 1 minute. In reality it is about 5-10 minutes so
this needs to be done quickly.
-
- Clean all removed bolts with a power brush, on a grinder, if possible. Lubricate lightly
prior to re-install.
- Start re-assembly. Start with header pipes, tailpipe, reconnect oxygen sensors, lift
shroud.
- I had to use the hydraulic jack in order to lift the entire shroud and chassis into the
correct position to place the shroud bolts after
re-installing the rear muffler bolts.
- Re-connect battery and fill with fresh oil. Mine took a full 6 quarts. Start
engine and do a short drive first, bringing up to operating temperature and then park
overnight. Check for leaks.
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:33 PM   #4
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Great detail. Thanks as I will be doing this soon.
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:04 AM   #5
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What is the half-moon rurbber collar? When I removed it the rubber was coming off of the metal insert. I've taken it to a couple of parts stores and they didn't know what it was and even tried looking it up on the computer but no luck.
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:54 AM   #6
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Its not on the parts drawings for mopar either. I just remember it was there. I think it might have been to the manual transmission to seal the inspection plate some. Maybe someone knows more. I am guessing its optional from what I remembered installing. But i could be wrong.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:32 AM   #7
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I've got a manual transmission, but I'm afraid to start the Jeep without that part. The only thing the people at the parts stores could think of is that it's used for off roading to keep mud off of the flywheel.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:58 PM   #8
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I went to 4WheelParts today and they couldn't remember the name of the part but said I would have to go to a dealership or a pull-a-part. He also said that if it cost too much that I could seal the gab with silicone, but it wasn't realy neccesary unless I was going to be in the mud.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:07 PM   #9
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I doubt it has anything to do with the transmission. I have had my trans out a few times, including the clutch assembly, and there was no rubber half moon pieces.

And I wouldn't put too much faith in the counter people at any of the typical parts stores, autozone, pepboys ect. I would try the dealer or at least a parts store where the guys that work in there are actually "car guys".
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #10
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How did y'all remove that piece. I can not seem to get a socket or a wrench on the bolt heads
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moparlife View Post
How did y'all remove that piece. I can not seem to get a socket or a wrench on the bolt heads
X2!! I worked on mine for a couple hours today and I ended up just bolting everything back up and putting oil back in. I'm thinking of just taking it to the shop.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:14 PM   #12
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Thanks. I have to replace my oil pan. The dealership wanted 600 for it. I think not.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junderwood View Post
What is the half-moon rurbber collar? When I removed it the rubber was coming off of the metal insert. I've taken it to a couple of parts stores and they didn't know what it was and even tried looking it up on the computer but no luck.
If you are talking about the collar that goes over the back of the pan (over the rear bearing cap) and held down by the two rear pan bolts it's OEM part #J3243116
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:02 AM   #14
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<<the bolts holding the manifold to the muffler are splined, if you break them pound them straight out and get 3 new grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers to replace them.
I had to break mine off to get the y off the muffler.
Scrape the old gasket off well, use a little black rtv to hold the gasket in place on the pan and re-install.
I used sockets extensions, and wrenches to get the 4 bolts off the y to manifold, long slow process!
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:52 PM   #15
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Can't get the drain plug off she is so banged up under there. What is the best way to drain the oil? How hard would it be to puncture the pan? Also I was wondering if I should have a sheet of metal welded to the new pan for extra protection?
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:16 PM   #16
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drill bit.

i believe they have oil pan skids that you can buy.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:17 PM   #17
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drill bit.

i believe they have oil pan skids that you can buy.
Drill bit? Can you elaborate on that a bit?

Bulldog1 - can you post a picture of what you've got to work with?
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:18 PM   #18
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Drill bit? Can you elaborate on that a bit? Bulldog1 - can you post a picture of what you've got to work with?
English wanted to drain the oil without taking off the drain plug. So I told him to use a drill bit and drill a hole in the pan.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:53 AM   #19
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Teraflex sells a dandy oil pan skid for 25.00.
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:40 AM   #20
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With a grinder and a file you should be able to turn your drain plug into a shape that is tight for an open end wrench. If you have to cut off the other end of the wrench so you can extend it with a galvanized pipe cheater bar of 12 to 18 inches.

If that fails you'll have to drill out the drain plug and tap it for a large size drain plug.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:28 AM   #21
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I am in the process of removing the oil pan. I have gotten all the bolts out except 2 of them that are on the back end by the tranny. There is a plate that is preventing me from getting the last 2 bolts off. I am trying to get the starter off. It seem the bolts are a diff size. What are the bolt sizes for the starter? I am so close to getting the sucker off. Advice?
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:11 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnglishBulldog1 View Post
I am in the process of removing the oil pan. I have gotten all the bolts out except 2 of them that are on the back end by the tranny. There is a plate that is preventing me from getting the last 2 bolts off. I am trying to get the starter off. It seem the bolts are a diff size. What are the bolt sizes for the starter? I am so close to getting the sucker off. Advice?
The cover shouldn't be in your way to get those last two bolts off.

Don't quote me, but if memory serves me right the starter is 13 and 15mm
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:27 PM   #23
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Thank my problem is the the gasket it butted up so tight to the to rear bolts that I can't fit my socket in it.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:48 PM   #24
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Thank my problem is the the gasket it butted up so tight to the to rear bolts that I can't fit my socket in it.
I think that's more like a dust shield than a gasket if it's what I'm thinking. I remember a really pliable rubber thing back there when I did mine. You should be able to hold it out of the way with a flat screw driver to get a socket in there.

I just looked it is what I was thinking.
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:07 AM   #25
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Got them off! Now I have to drop the exhaust. Got the bolts soaking in WD40
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Old 02-24-2014, 05:18 AM   #26
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Why wasn't the exhaust first? Hahaha remember to Unclip the o2 sensor first.
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Old 02-28-2014, 12:30 PM   #27
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I am having trouble with the damn exhaust. I have gotten the four bolts that connect up in the engine. But how do I get them off?
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Old 02-28-2014, 03:37 PM   #28
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I am having trouble with the damn exhaust. I have gotten the four bolts that connect up in the engine. But how do I get them off?
Upload a picture. My jeep had only one down pipe with two nuts.
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:04 PM   #29
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Does anyone exhaust down Pipe bolt size? I have the underside loose but now they just keep spinning. Is the top part the same size? Please help. This project is going on way to long!
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:02 PM   #30
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My bolts were connected to the manifold. Pop your hood and look at them from the top.

Metric tools are your friend. Even if it's not an exact fit, they work for nearly everything.

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