I can drive w/ PB yanked (yes, as far up as possible) w/out a damn difference. There is not a snowball's chance in hell of me staying put on a slight incline, like my driveway, local landfill, parking lot, etc. I know to check back break pads, but how? What about the PB cable? Please give me some direction as to what to do first.
"There are two things all good men do fear; a scolding wife and an ill-brewed beer."
Take your rear wheels off, and there is a start adjustment for the emergancy brake inside your brake housing. Not sure if you have rear discs or drums, but its there. Mine was like that too, I adjusted it so that it started rubbing at 1 click, and held at 3-4, like your supposed to, but about 2-3 months of heavy use and its back to being unadjusted again. :shrug: I just live with it
forgive me if it's different on TJ's....I haven't poked around mine yet..but like said before there is an auto adjuster that stops auto adjusting...
You don't need to pull the wheel or drum. On the back side of the drum there is an oval(ish) rubber plug (Unless it's missing..then theres just an hole), use a Brake Tool or Screwdriver to turn the Star Wheel in there to adjust...(i can't remember which direction of the top of my head...but it becomes obvious when your under there)
'03 TJ Sport on 33's, 2"BB, 1"BL, 1"MML
Vector is right. That cable adjustment should not need to be messed with. The auto adjuster SHOULD do that job, but it does not. Either way, you dont mess with that cable unless adjusting the pads/shoes, or replacing pads/shoes does not help.
NY is also correct in that you dont NEED to remove the wheels or the drum etc. I just find it easier to adjust, being able to spin the drum and get it adjusted just before the ebrake drags. With a wheel on, the weight of the wheel makes it harder to tell. I remove the drum on regular tjs, and the rotor on rubis, just to make sure the shoes aren't worn out completly before I even bother adjusting
doesnt it adjust automatically when you slamm on the brakes while in reverse gear?
Supposed to but then they get a bit rusty or corroded that adjuster freezes, then it needs to be removed and either cleaned or replaced. This is another thread where I put the copper based anti-seize on.
My Parking brake was the same way i adjusted it at the rear drums. Turned the little gear to move the pads out and now the rear locks up in rain. Parking brake works a little but still have to yank it almost to the top.