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Old 05-11-2008, 12:54 AM   #1
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Parking Brake = No Hold

I can drive w/ PB yanked (yes, as far up as possible) w/out a damn difference. There is not a snowball's chance in hell of me staying put on a slight incline, like my driveway, local landfill, parking lot, etc. I know to check back break pads, but how? What about the PB cable? Please give me some direction as to what to do first.

Thanks!

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Old 05-11-2008, 08:00 AM   #2
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Take your rear wheels off, and there is a start adjustment for the emergancy brake inside your brake housing. Not sure if you have rear discs or drums, but its there. Mine was like that too, I adjusted it so that it started rubbing at 1 click, and held at 3-4, like your supposed to, but about 2-3 months of heavy use and its back to being unadjusted again. :shrug: I just live with it

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Old 05-11-2008, 08:24 AM   #3
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Sometimes that brake adjuster gets all corroded up and needs to either be removed, cleaned and put back in or replaced.
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Old 05-11-2008, 10:35 AM   #4
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Do your regular rear brakes work? You might just need to adjust the parking brake cable.

To tighten it, just tighten the bolt in the middle of this pic, (located right above the rear driveshaft)

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Old 05-11-2008, 11:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
Do your regular rear brakes work? You might just need to adjust the parking brake cable.

To tighten it, just tighten the bolt in the middle of this pic, (located right above the rear driveshaft)
don't do this until you adjust the shoes at the rear wheels first, this is usually not needed to be messed with.

follow JCS05Rubi's suggestion first...
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Old 05-11-2008, 05:34 PM   #6
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forgive me if it's different on TJ's....I haven't poked around mine yet..but like said before there is an auto adjuster that stops auto adjusting...

You don't need to pull the wheel or drum. On the back side of the drum there is an oval(ish) rubber plug (Unless it's missing..then theres just an hole), use a Brake Tool or Screwdriver to turn the Star Wheel in there to adjust...(i can't remember which direction of the top of my head...but it becomes obvious when your under there)
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Old 05-11-2008, 06:57 PM   #7
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Vector is right. That cable adjustment should not need to be messed with. The auto adjuster SHOULD do that job, but it does not. Either way, you dont mess with that cable unless adjusting the pads/shoes, or replacing pads/shoes does not help.

NY is also correct in that you dont NEED to remove the wheels or the drum etc. I just find it easier to adjust, being able to spin the drum and get it adjusted just before the ebrake drags. With a wheel on, the weight of the wheel makes it harder to tell. I remove the drum on regular tjs, and the rotor on rubis, just to make sure the shoes aren't worn out completly before I even bother adjusting
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:39 PM   #8
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Good advice Rubi, no disrespect.
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:43 PM   #9
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doesnt it adjust automatically when you slamm on the brakes while in reverse gear?
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
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doesnt it adjust automatically when you slamm on the brakes while in reverse gear?
Supposed to but then they get a bit rusty or corroded that adjuster freezes, then it needs to be removed and either cleaned or replaced. This is another thread where I put the copper based anti-seize on.
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:39 PM   #11
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My Parking brake was the same way i adjusted it at the rear drums. Turned the little gear to move the pads out and now the rear locks up in rain. Parking brake works a little but still have to yank it almost to the top.
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:42 PM   #12
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in that case i'd adjust the bolt in the pic i posted above. Regular brakes work but hand brake doesnt.. JMO
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:45 PM   #13
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I agree with you and that’s what I did and now it grabs a bit earlier. I think I need to take the drums off and see what the actual problem is.

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