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Old 10-08-2009, 04:59 PM   #1
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pinion seal

Ok so all was good today, I greased everything checked everything over and then left to drive down town, I get back and I smelled something so I looked under the jeep and I noticed oil blown all over the back diff and gas tank skid. Further inspection led me to the pinion seal. Theres oil coming out of the pinion all over the rear diff and blowing all up the back of the jeep...WTF??? 43,000k and the pinion seal blows? Whats next is this an easy fix? any advice?

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Old 10-08-2009, 05:02 PM   #2
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I will replace the pinion seal this weekend on my 06 TJ with only 18.000 mls.

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Old 10-08-2009, 06:54 PM   #3
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Yea it's not too bad, just make sure to get a new pinion yoke nut, since they made to be one time use only. Try the search function here or on yahoo and you should be able to come across a write up.

The biggest problem is trying to break the torque on the pinion nut. Air tools help

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Old 10-08-2009, 07:03 PM   #4
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Before you replace it try cleaning it! Could have some dirt in there keeping the seal from sealing. A few times after wheeling I noticed a pinion leak cleaned it good and no more leak!
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:47 PM   #5
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I let my Mechanic replace mine. At 45K I thought the same thing, just like I wondered why my axle seals and ujoints went at 43K. But it is what it is,he charged me 95 dollars for the pinion seal.
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:55 PM   #6
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I had a bad one on a brand new cherokee. Anyway not a hard fix, just a pita sometimes as the nut is on tight.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:36 AM   #7
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Great thanks guys, I'm going to try and clean it first and then keep an eye on it. I was in some really deep mud and water recently and it could just be theirs something in there it's pretty dirty. Can I clean it with brake cleaner or will that mess up the seal?
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:14 AM   #8
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It is a Chrysler thing!!!!! LOL I just replaced one in a Dodge Magnum wagon with only 8K miles on it.Also there is no cleaning it ,if it is leaking it is leaking from around the rubber part that seals against the yoke shaft.The constant rubbing wears down the rubber and weakens the tention spring causing them to leak.Some are made with stronger rubber compounds than others i guess.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:17 AM   #9
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I just had to replace my seal with 41K on mine.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:19 AM   #10
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for the ones who have done it yourself when I take the nut off and replace it and the seal, what's the torque spec when putting a new nut on I don't want to over tighten it.
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:09 PM   #11
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That's a good question. It would all depend on who you talked to. I've seen in books and the web from 200 lbs ft all the way up to 300 lbs ft. I would say go to the dealership and ask them what they recommend.
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HamiltonLJ View Post
Before you replace it try cleaning it!
I sure dunno how you'd clean the pinion shaft seal where it seals against the pinion gear opening without destroying the seal. To me, if the pinon shaft seal is leaking, that's a 'replace the seal' time.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:46 PM   #13
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One question I have, my Jeep runs excellant. But I have notcied ever since I had the pinion seal replaced, I seem to hear a mild hum when I let off of the accelerator, any ideas? There is enough oil in the differential and the Jeep shifts fine. The noise is slight,but it is there so I am going to just drive and not look for problems until it gets worse, but part of me is curious.
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Old 10-09-2009, 08:59 PM   #14
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I believe the torque is 160-180 ft/lbs

Yours might have crush sleeves, not totally sure but might need to new ones.
See if you can find one of the write-ups and if it states.
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:14 PM   #15
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thx snowchris, I'm pretty sure I have crush sleeves.
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:34 PM   #16
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I would also like to add, that I should not just blame the slight hum after the pinion seal replacement. I also had the tires rotated, so maybe it is the tires that are making the noise.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:38 PM   #17
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What are most people paying to have the pinion seal replaced/repaired?
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:14 AM   #18
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I would also like to add, that I should not just blame the slight hum after the pinion seal replacement. I also had the tires rotated, so maybe it is the tires that are making the noise.
I would say that it was either torqued a little to much or not quit enough.Not enough and the pinion gear would mesh against the ring gear to tight but that would hum while driving down the road I would say, but if it was not torqued enough and you are getting backlash then that would kind of chatter the gears once you were off of the gas and could sound like a hum I guess.So I would say the crush sleeve was crushed a little to much.If it was done by a service shop I would take it back and try to get them to replace the nut,seal and crush sleeve free this time!!!!
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:50 AM   #19
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What are most people paying to have the pinion seal replaced/repaired?

I was quoted $60 from my mechanic but he only charges $40 an hour and he doesn't charge anything for parts...but I'm going to do it myself I just called him for advice. I would say no more than $100 though.
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:57 AM   #20
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Depends on shop labor in the area you live in.
When I lived in Chicago it was $90/hr so I trypically did all my own work and still do.
Where I live now I believe its $50/hr
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Old 10-10-2009, 12:16 PM   #21
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I would say that it was either torqued a little to much or not quit enough.Not enough and the pinion gear would mesh against the ring gear to tight but that would hum while driving down the road I would say, but if it was not torqued enough and you are getting backlash then that would kind of chatter the gears once you were off of the gas and could sound like a hum I guess.So I would say the crush sleeve was crushed a little to much.If it was done by a service shop I would take it back and try to get them to replace the nut,seal and crush sleeve free this time!!!!
Thanks, I am going to call them Tuesday.
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Old 10-10-2009, 08:55 PM   #22
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It's an easy replacement. Just don't crank the pinion nut down too much or you'll over crush the crush sleeve. Do you have a 44 or a 35 back there? 44 isn't crush sleeve 35 is.

Remove rear driveshaft
Remove Pinion Nut
Remove Pinion yoke
Using pry bar pry out old seal
After drilling 4 in 1/2 in hole in a block of 4x4 take new seal and place on pinion then slidin said piece of 4x4 over pinion shaft hammer new seal in place.
Reinstall all parts that were removed. DONE
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:20 PM   #23
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yea 35 for me I have a crush sleeve
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
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44 isn't crush sleeve
Oh I didnīt know that.
So I donīt have to be afraid to overtighten the nut?

How do I get the new seal in there without damaging it?
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:43 PM   #25
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Mine is the Dana 35, the hum is not always there which is odd. I mainly hear it when I take my foot off the accelerator and the Jeep is coasting to a stop, I am still going to talk to them Tuesday and ask them to make it right.
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:40 AM   #26
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Oh I didnīt know that.
So I donīt have to be afraid to overtighten the nut?

How do I get the new seal in there without damaging it?

No you can still damage if you overtighten and cause issues with teh mesh.

I believe you should be able to start the lip of the seal in the opening and then use a piece of flat wood or metal and gently tap to make sure it sits even

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Old 10-11-2009, 08:36 AM   #27
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Ok so all was good today, I greased everything checked everything over and then left to drive down town, I get back and I smelled something so I looked under the jeep and I noticed oil blown all over the back diff and gas tank skid. Further inspection led me to the pinion seal. Theres oil coming out of the pinion all over the rear diff and blowing all up the back of the jeep...WTF??? 43,000k and the pinion seal blows? Whats next is this an easy fix? any advice?
According to the manual you do have a crush collar. There is a minimum and maximum torque but that is for reference, lets you know if you have a damaged crush collar. What you shoot for is proper bearing preload on the tapered Timken bearings, not torque.

First you measure and record your current preload with an inch-pound torque wrench, you have to remove your brake drums to do this. Depending what inch pound torque wrench you use (1/4" or 3/8") you will need to adapt it to a socket that fits your pinion nut, that is where you will measure your preload.

After you replace the seal you tighten the pinion nut to minimum torque and check the preload with the inch-pound torque wrench, if you are at or below the original preload, you are good to continue. This is the tricky one because I can't find minimum or maximum torque in the manual. Just snug it up good and began measuring the preload.

What you are shooting for is the original preload (inch-pound torque you recorded before disassembly) plus 5 inch-pounds. Now you see why removing the brake drums is important, don't want any drag. You will have to tighten the pinion nut in very small increments until you achieve this.

I've set up axles on the bench and in the car, I remember laying under my '69 Camaro swapping gears for Friday night street night at the local drag strip. The setup is basically the same as the Jeep. I used a 14" or 18" pipe wrench with a piece of pipe resting as a cheater on the pinion yoke, letting that rest on the deck to hold the reaction torque and a breaker bar with a cheater to move the pinion nut. If you have to compress the crush collar, and hopefully you will a little, it takes quite of bit of force.
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Old 10-11-2009, 06:23 PM   #28
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Yea it's not too bad, just make sure to get a new pinion yoke nut, since they made to be one time use only. Try the search function here or on yahoo and you should be able to come across a write up.

The biggest problem is trying to break the torque on the pinion nut. Air tools help

Chris
Greetings! I have a question: Can you get this pinion yoke nut at an aftermarket parts store, or is this something that you have to go through Chrysler to get? And if I decide to take the cover off my rear-end when changing the fluids, what kind of sealant do I use? My Haynes is a little unclear about some of these things. I'd appreciate any suggestions.
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Old 10-11-2009, 06:55 PM   #29
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Any well equipped drivetrain, especially axle, shop will have the pinion nut. I just bought replacement nuts for my rear D44 and t-case output shaft at a local axle rebuilding shop. I use Permatex Ultra-Black RTV to seal my diff covers, many years using it there and most other locations with never a leak.
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:13 PM   #30
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Can you avoid using sealant by getting a good old-fashioned gasket, or should I not even worry about that and just stick to the gasket?

My Haynes tells me to use a torque wrench to record the lbs that it requires to take it off with, so that later I'm supposed to use that same amount force plus 5 lbs. to put it back on. Is that what you do Jerry? There are marks which are supposed to line up from the nut to the yoke, right? I get the feeling I might be making this more complicated than it needs to be.
I did read the earlier part of the thread, so I guess it's up in the air as far as torque specs? Maybe I need a higher torque wrench, 'cause I don't have one that goes up to 300. I hope it's 160-180.

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