My Forum name is Miser, but my real name is Joe.
Do to our terrible economy, I have been forced to relocate to the mountains in Arizona for new employment. I am thankful to find a job, it is low paying, but something is better than nothing!
I own a pristene old TJ with only 50,000 miles on it, which has never been abused and has always been well maintained. After I relocate about 50% of my usage will be exploring the beautiful Arizona mountain ranges, of which I have already made a couple of trips. The mountainous areas have dirt rocky roads with grades of about 10% and distances of about 15 miles up hill. This is why I am wanting to upgrade my rear Diff. My TJ is my only means of transportation so it is vital that I keep it run-able so I can get to work and back, which is about a 60 mile round trip.
After joining this Forum I have recognized that my Jeep has a weak link called the Dana 35. I am running a 4.0 engine, auto with opened 3:73 ratio. 31 inch tires. I currently do not have the money resources to be upgrading to 8.8 or Dana 44 assemblies. So I would like to strengthen beef up my current Dana 35.
Please keep in mind that my knowledge of rear Differentials is very limited. This is why that I am asking for your help! I have had some limited conversation with you in the past trying to get some feel for the Dana 35 weakness.
Questions as follows:
1. Would I be O.K. to just stay with the 27 spline and current side gears and upgrade to the 4340 Chromoly shafts? I do not need a locker, or LSD.
2. Should I go with the 30 spline side gears and shafts? Will they fit in my original carrier?
3. What is the weak link in this 35, is it the splines stripping, or shafts breaking, or both?
4. Are the shafts any heavier thicker with the 30 spline, or is the only advantage the additional spline count?
5. can I remove the spider gears pin without pulling the carrier from the housing, or to get the pin out must I remove the carrier?
I don't have the money to be installing a Super 35, so I am looking for the best option, but only plan on doing this once, because of the cost factor.
what size tires are you running. if its stock or only lightly modded i wouldn't worry to much about the 35. i would suggest sourcing a spare set of shafts. factory or After Market and just keep them with you along with the tools.
I've replaced my D35 shafts with 27 splined alloy shafts and I've never had an issue. My rear D35 drives a Detroit TrueTrac limited slip and 33x10.5 MTs.
Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? The automatic is usually gentler on the drivetrain, hence to the differential, compared to a manual.
If you plan on staying with 31's, I would just upgrade your shafts. If you plan on going taller i.e. up to a 35" tire or locking your differential, then I would recommend upgrading to a Superior Super35 kit. If you plan on going taller than 35 or will eventually play/wheel on big rocks, then I recommend replacing the D35 altogether.
I don't think I would recommend even doing anything. The 35 is not as bad as portrayed on here. I mean there are very valid points but you must realize most of the folks are more hard core than your average mountain trail rider. I believe most are more serious rock crawling types (just what I have gathered). From what you described, I don't see any reason to worry. With 31" tires and the light trail rides you mention, I don't think you should be in any rush to worry about it especially if you have been out of work and just got back into the workforce. Save your money after handling your other priority's and do the upgrade down the road. This way you can do it right and only have to do it once without applying the "band-aid."
Take it easy and don't get heavy on the throttle if you are going over ruff terrain and the 35 will be fine, certainly with only 50K on it. Now if you plan on doing more serious rock crawling then just save up and do 8.8 or 44.
My Forum name is Miser, but my real name is Joe.
Do to our terrible economy, I have been forced to relocate to the mountains in Arizona for new employment. I am thankful to find a job, it is low paying, but something is better than nothing!
I own a pristene old TJ with only 50,000 miles on it, which has never been abused and has always been well maintained. After I relocate about 50% of my usage will be exploring the beautiful Arizona mountain ranges, of which I have already made a couple of trips. The mountainous areas have dirt rocky roads with grades of about 10% and distances of about 15 miles up hill. This is why I am wanting to upgrade my rear Diff. My TJ is my only means of transportation so it is vital that I keep it run-able so I can get to work and back, which is about a 60 mile round trip.
After joining this Forum I have recognized that my Jeep has a weak link called the Dana 35. I am running a 4.0 engine, auto with opened 3:73 ratio. 31 inch tires. I currently do not have the money resources to be upgrading to 8.8 or Dana 44 assemblies. So I would like to strengthen beef up my current Dana 35.
Please keep in mind that my knowledge of rear Differentials is very limited. This is why that I am asking for your help! I have had some limited conversation with you in the past trying to get some feel for the Dana 35 weakness.
Questions as follows:
1. Would I be O.K. to just stay with the 27 spline and current side gears and upgrade to the 4340 Chromoly shafts? I do not need a locker, or LSD.
2. Should I go with the 30 spline side gears and shafts? Will they fit in my original carrier?
3. What is the weak link in this 35, is it the splines stripping, or shafts breaking, or both?
4. Are the shafts any heavier thicker with the 30 spline, or is the only advantage the additional spline count?
5. can I remove the spider gears pin without pulling the carrier from the housing, or to get the pin out must I remove the carrier?
I don't have the money to be installing a Super 35, so I am looking for the best option, but only plan on doing this once, because of the cost factor.
If its not broke don't fix it. Are you worried because you wheel hard or because of what you have been reading? When you get up to 33's and wheel fairly hard you run the risk of breaking the axles or spider gears. Especially if you have a manual since its harder to be smooth unless you are real low geared with a thumb throttle. Anyways the only way to get rid of the spider gears is with a true track or locker. The TT will run you about 400 and can be installed easy with just some shims to reset the back lash. Add some superior chromoly axles for around 200 and you have a solid rear axle for 33's. add the super 35 with locker and 30 spline chromoly axles and you can run up to 35's.
Not worried, but more concerned, because of what I have been reading on this Forum. I am not heavy on the throttle, but just the opposite. My concern is that I have already been on some of these mountain roads in a Polaris Ranger, which I have sold. Some of these roads are very narrow and with I'm estimating about a 10% grade. If I was to break a axle heading up the mountain, then i'm in trouble, because of the logistically area that I am in.
The bottom line is that I want to enjoy my Jeep rides without the ongoing concern of breaking a axle, but I do understand that any mechanical item can fail at any time. I just picking on what I am hearing is the weak link. So far what I am hearing on the responses, that I am receiving is drive it and don't worry about it and I really do appreciate everybody's input!
I don't think you will have an issue wheeling on mountains roads with 31's. where guys get into trouble while climbing steep loose rocky grades is using to much pedal getting a lot of wheel spin and bouncing. That's bad for axles.
Another upgrade option, would be Superior's C-Clip Eliminator product. If your axle shaft should compromise, the design of the aforementioned would still allow you to limp to a suitable area for repair using the front driveline by keeping your rear intact and drivable.
X2 on that. I know lots of guys say don't drop a dime into the 35. Well 44's don't grow on trees and the 8.8 is not for everyone. For less than a grand and a few hours of your time you can have a reliable 35 that will live a long life on 33's.
The fact that the Discovery shafts retain the OE c-clip design is really no drawback at all. The c-clip area itself doesn't weaken anything at all, the c-clip and the groove in the axle shaft it fits into are after all inside the carrier, protected behind the splined opening in the carrier, and thus doesn't contribute any weakness.
The only problem that a c-clip design axle presents, and even the uber-strong Ford 8.8 is a c-clip design, is that if the shaft breaks there is nothing left (aside from disk brakes) to hold the outer part of the axle shaft in place. The strength issue mostly goes away with the replacement Discovery shafts so that they retain the c-clip design isn't really an issue.
Yes, definitely. My bad... I wasn't clear on why I listed the c-clip as a possible drawback. I was thinking in comparison to the CCE design where the wheel won't come off if the axle breaks.
Thanks to all of you for you suggestions and recommendations!!!
After reading all of them, I feel a little better about my Dana 35 at least for my usage.
I'm not sure yet, but I may upgrade just the axles, but for now i'm just going to leave it in stock OEM form. I did change the oil in it and it looked really good with no shavings, or gear material present.
It is starting to snow up on the mountain, we may get up to 18 inches. I guess then I can see how well the Jeep does in the snow.
I WANT TO WISH ALL OF YOU A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Thanks to all of you for you suggestions and recommendations!!!
After reading all of them, I feel a little better about my Dana 35 at least for my usage.
I'm not sure yet, but I may upgrade just the axles, but for now i'm just going to leave it in stock OEM form. I did change the oil in it and it looked really good with no shavings, or gear material present.
It is starting to snow up on the mountain, we may get up to 18 inches. I guess then I can see how well the Jeep does in the snow.
I WANT TO WISH ALL OF YOU A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Just dont go out alone read a thread on here about a couple getting stuck in the snow and the man left to get help and never came back.they found him later frozen.after they finally rescued the woman after I think it was a week
Yes do not go out alone. The Dana 35 is stronger than everyone talks about, but if you are a hard on the skinny pedal or like to rock crawl then yes most likely you will break your shafts, but not in just running through the mountain roads. I am assuming you are in the Flagstaff area. Remember if you upgrade the shafts to a different spline count that if you possibly do break something you have no local shafts to install from an auto parts store. Be smart and you will be fine on your dana 35. Welcome to the forum.
Thank you for the Welcome and the advice!
Many years ago I lived in NW Indiana so I am familiar with the snow, cold and the dangers of both.
If I do upgrade the shafts, I will stay with the 27 spline count and I am not into Rock Crawl.
I am about half way between Payson and ShoLow up on the Rim. I'm going to work for a Logger.
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