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Poison Spyder Crushed Corners.

3K views 31 replies 16 participants last post by  1jeeplvr 
#1 ·
Has anyone used these or know anything about them?
 

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#4 ·
#7 ·
That's an uninformed opinion. Aluminum corners are used on most builds I see in this day and age. Quality aluminum corners maintain about 70% of the strength of steel while weighing half as much. Savvy Offroad gives a lifetime guarantee on their aluminum corners and their lj has won two consecutive KOH everyman challenges with their aluminum corners.
 
#14 ·
I'll still favor steel for a load that really mattered unless weight was critical like an airplane

The steel yeild curve has a lot more area under it

I'll also stick with my steel corners

As stated aluminum will have less strength and more cost so for is guys that aren't able to write of the expense as a business expense or get free or discounted parts for promotion steel is more bang for the buck

If aluminum was so much better we would be seeing aluminum bumpers and roll cages as the norm

Biggest drawback is the lack of much elastic yeild and crack rather than stretch and bend

Granted in steel and aluminum there are lots of variables and aluminum has less corrosion issues but again if aluminum was so superior structurally and economically we would be seeing aluminum f150 truck frames

My miata has aluminum hood, trunk lid and suspension but none are designed to bang into boulders
 
#15 ·
When I was trying to decide between the P.S. flat fenders I was seriously thinking I was going with the alum ones,until one of the guys at P.S. advised against the alum ones.He said they dont advise using the alum if I was going to be making contact with trees or rocks,which I do.I ended up with the steel ones because of his advise.The alum ones are of coarse more expensive so it wasent like he was trying to talk me into something more expensive,he was being honest.
 
#16 ·
I'm not quite clueless Jerry, but I'm not racing my Jeep, and neither are you, and I'm betting neither is the OP, but if my friend and Jeep builder was the one peddling the aluminum I would be 100% for it also, you have to parrot the party line to get your freebies and discounts I know, but that doesn't make it valid advice, just a disguised advertisement.

All of the 4 wheeling world isn't decided by or circled around KOH Jerry, just your buddies.
 
#18 ·
I'm not quite clueless Jerry, but I'm not racing my Jeep, and neither are you, and I'm betting neither is the OP, but if my friend and Jeep builder was the one peddling the aluminum I would be 100% for it also, you have to parrot the party line to get your freebies and discounts I know, but that doesn't make it valid advice, just a disguised advertisement.

All of the 4 wheeling world isn't decided by or circled around KOH Jerry, just your buddies.
The reason aluminum helps them win is by reducing weight. Yes we dont race however saving as much weight as possible still aplies to us.

The heavier your rig the harder it is for your tires to grip. The heavier your rig is the harder it is for your tires to pull your jeep up a obstacle.

Also how often do your corners get hit by trees and rocks? Chances are not as often as other places on your jeep, also what is the biggest single piece of armor that you can buy? Thats right the corner armor. It only makes sense to go aluminum to save weight.
 
#26 ·
since my rear corners also provide hinge and latch for my rear carrier I'll stick with steel and the reason cost ain't a big different is also why weight ain't much different but strength still is (they just don't contain all that much metal volume}

Then we got the issue of corrosion between a non ferrous metal and a ferrous one including FASTENERS

if all you want is half ass armor for trees limbs maybe you could save weight dollars and CG but not having any armor
If you want functional armor soft aluminum ain't the ticket but if its for pretty sure aluminum shines up real nice till it gets scratched
 
#27 ·
half ass soft armor? you apparently paid no attention to Jerry's real world Al armor example or Savvy's or anyone else that actually does run it then. lol. Think what you want, but your knowledge of Aluminum being weak and delicate is not based on any engineering application. Our transmissions are aluminum and they take huge amounts of torque. A jet may not be hitting trees, but I bet you my jeep a jet going 400-1000mph is experiencing more force on its aluminum than you could dream about

The only real logical argument against aluminum should be over cost not strength
 
#28 ·
Here are two equations that anyone can use in order to calculate the weight of steel and aluminum. The two equations also have been setup to show us the weight difference between 1/8" thick, 12"x12" (Square Foot) plate of steel and aluminum.

Steel:

Thickness (.125) x Side (12") x Side (12") x Weight/Cubic/In (.284) = 5.112 lbs

Aluminum 6061:

Thickness (.125) x Side (12") x Side (12") x Weight/Cubic/In (.097) = 1.746 lbs

Now lets take this equation and apply it to a pair of poison spyder rear corner armor. Both the aluminum and steel version both use 3/16" plate. I will compare it to the approximate dimensions of my LJs corners.

Steel:
Thickness (.1875) x Square Inch (662") x Weight/Cubic/In (.284) = (35.251 LB) x 2 Corners = 70.503 LB

Aluminum 6061:
Thickness (.1875) x Square Inch (662") x Weight/Cubic/In (.097) = (12.04 LB) x 2 Corners = 24.08 lbs


I would like to point out that I got my dimensions from using a ruler on the corner of my jeep and subtracting the wheel well area. So that means the numbers are approximate but may only be off by 5-10%.


I hope someone reading this in the future will find this helpful.
 
#29 ·
Yes I got my under graduate degree in mechanical engineering so ain't impressed by your brags ( Tau Beta Pi. , Pi Tau Sigma) and BFD it is only under graduate

Yes where weight is a issue aluminum has a place
Yes f150 went to some aluminum body
But where strength and economy matters like a frame steel was and is king

But hey whatever floats your boat
 
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