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Old 07-05-2010, 12:31 PM   #1
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Problem With A/C On 2002 TJ

I checked all the fuses by the glove box and under the hood and nothing blown. I don't hear the a/c clutch kick on, on the compressor. Wiggled the wiring around going to the compressor still nothing. What else could it be help?!

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Old 07-05-2010, 03:34 PM   #2
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Did you narrow down the fuses to which control the compressor? Look in the manual. I think there may be a relay also.

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Old 07-05-2010, 03:40 PM   #3
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Yup I popped the hood took the stickers off on top of the fuses and checked 10 amp fuse was ok. I pulled the relay on and off to see if it would do anything, but ended up with the same results. What are the odds that the relay went bad for the compressor?



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Did you narrow down the fuses to which control the compressor? Look in the manual. I think there may be a relay also.
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Old 07-05-2010, 03:48 PM   #4
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Could be. My relay for rad fan went bad. Check the number on the relay and if possible switch it with similar number. Number as in type of relay.
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Old 07-05-2010, 03:55 PM   #5
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Also you can check the wires going to the compressor. with the a/c switch on unplug compressor and with voltmeter see if you get 12 volts. I'm just going by what I do with my dodge ram van. But they are similar.
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Old 07-05-2010, 04:55 PM   #6
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I will surely try both soon. If the relay is bad the only place I can get it is the deaker right?
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Old 07-13-2010, 09:58 PM   #7
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Tried switching relays, nothing. Couldn't really stick my hands down by the compressor it was so narrow i couldn't squeeze my hands in there.
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:32 AM   #8
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Check the 3 wire connection on the back of the climate control switch. It's not that difficult. Do a search on changing fan speed switch. Once you get to the back of the climate control switch make sure the 3 wire connector is on tight. It might even be melted like mine was, in which case you'll need to splice a new connector on. The smaller gauge light green wire is the a/c control, the other 2 are fan relay and ground.
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:12 AM   #9
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Cool ill try that. Anyone have any links to actual pictures and instructions on how to check it? It would be easier to put a picture with all the desriptions. If not I think I can wing it.


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Check the 3 wire connection on the back of the climate control switch. It's not that difficult. Do a search on changing fan speed switch. Once you get to the back of the climate control switch make sure the 3 wire connector is on tight. It might even be melted like mine was, in which case you'll need to splice a new connector on. The smaller gauge light green wire is the a/c control, the other 2 are fan relay and ground.
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:40 AM   #10
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Why get complicated - Does the blower come on?

Yes? It may be low or out of freon.

To test the compressor, look for the dryer - a round can - right side ahead of the battery.
On the aluminum tube or on the can itself, you'll see a small round device with 2 wires on it - that's the Low Pressure switch. Disconnect the connector - squeeze it to release it.

Look at the end of the harness - short the 2 wires together with a paper clip or hunk of wire. If the compressor kicks on, it's low on Freon. Don't do it for long, just long enough to verify it.

Needs Recharging.

2002 is 8 years old now - perfectly normal to be low on R-134 by now.
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:45 AM   #11
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Does the blower come on?
Yes? It may be low or out of freon.

To test the compressor, look for the dryer - a round can - right side ahead of the battery.
On the aluminum tube you'll see a small round device with 2 wires on it - that's the Low Pressure switch. Disconnect the connector - squeeze it to release it.

Look at the end of the harness - short the 2 wires together with a paper clip or hunk of wire. If the compressor kicks on, it's low on Freon. Don't do it for long, just long enough to verify it.

Needs Recharging.

2002 is 8 years old now - perfectly normal to be low on R-134 by now.
X2, it's probably just low on refrigerant. The switch Rich describes won't let the compressor turn on if the refrigerant pressure is too low. When the pressure is too low, it often needs nothing more than to be recharged. However, to me, that indicates there is probably a leak somewhere. My '97 TJ's a/c was still working fine the day it was stolen in March and it never needed a recharge. Refrigerant doesn't normally just run low from usage, it normally takes a leak to cause it to run low. An a/c shop can put a dye into the refrigerant & use a blacklight to find where the leak is, if one exists.
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:25 AM   #12
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Sorry I wasn't clear - The paper clip bypasses that switch temporarily - as a test. It will help you decide if it's an electrical problem like a fuse, relay or dash switch or just in need of a recharge.

True, many systems don't leak at all - they hold a charge for near forever. But 8 years is doing pretty good too. The compressor seals are usually the culprit in that slow a leak. As I remember it only holds about 2.5 12 oz cans anyway.

The manual will tell you to run the AC for a few minutes a month to keep the seals working properly, - even in the winter - if it's not done regularly they will leak.

If you have a shop recharge it, they'll evacuate it to check for leaks.

Since the OP had to ask, I'd recommend using a professional rather than a DIY kit.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:06 AM   #13
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Now if this makes sense and its low on r134. How do I fill it if the compressor won't kick on? Do I short like above mentioned? Yes, the blower works.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:26 AM   #14
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I am no mechanic, but I have a 2002 TJ and the AC worked when I test drove her, only to stop working on the vents after I got her home. It cooled on defrost and floor for everything. Took it to the dealership up the road, as well as an AC mechanic, and both said the dash would have to be pulled, etc. and would cost me about $700. UGH. Decided to drive hot for a while. (it was the one luxury I splurged on when buying my second Wrangler, as I am in the South and it is incredibly hot/humid)

My newly found Wrangler-drivin' mechanic looked at it and it turned out to simply be a disconnected hose. He fixed it for free, just because he is a fellow jeeper.

Are you getting cold air anywhere? Remember, I am "just a girl" but could be something that simple if you are getting any coldness at all.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:38 AM   #15
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Oi wish that was the xase but I'm getting hot air all around even on the floor.

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I am no mechanic, but I have a 2002 TJ and the AC worked when I test drove her, only to stop working on the vents after I got her home. It cooled on defrost and floor for everything. Took it to the dealership up the road, as well as an AC mechanic, and both said the dash would have to be pulled, etc. and would cost me about $700. UGH. Decided to drive hot for a while. (it was the one luxury I splurged on when buying my second Wrangler, as I am in the South and it is incredibly hot/humid)

My newly found Wrangler-drivin' mechanic looked at it and it turned out to simply be a disconnected hose. He fixed it for free, just because he is a fellow jeeper.

Are you getting cold air anywhere? Remember, I am "just a girl" but could be something that simple if you are getting any coldness at all.
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Old 07-14-2010, 11:02 AM   #16
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02 said the clutch would not engage. If the aluminum tubes around the dryer are getting cold then the compressor and clutch are working, but it's still not getting cold inside, it's a problem somewhere in the routing of the cold air - air doors, switch etc. Many are operated by vacuum, the later TJ's are electrical.

If bypassing the Low Pressure switch makes the clutch activate and the compressor turns OK (not frozen up,) it's 95% sure it's just low on R-134.

You don't want to run the compressor for very long if it's that low - that's why the switch.

WEAR GOGGLES - ONE LITTLE SPLASH OF FREON IN YOUR EYE WILL BLIND YOU FOREVER!

Test it to see if it still has any pressure in the system. Use a screwdriver or something to momentarily depress the pin in the Low Pressure Shrader valve. If there is still pressure in the system it obviously hasn't drawn air or moisture in - it can't while it has pressure.

You can refill it with a DIY kit. If it has lost all pressure it really should be evacuated to get all moisture out of it - and it's a good test for a leak.

Engine off - the can of R-134 is already pressurized - just connecting it to the Low side and waiting a moment will get enough in to activate the low pressure switch - or should. Once it's stopped flowing (you can hear and feel it) start the engine. It should be enough to close the switch and get the compressor going. The compressor will suck the rest of the R-134 out of the can. The can will get cold, then back to room temp - done with that can.

If the clutch still doesn't activate, you can short the connector again to make it run.

One can is usually enough to get the tubes by the dryer a little cold. But it still needs more. But how much?

Use a meat thermometer - put it in the dash vent, turn it on High & Max cold recirculating. Close the windows and doors.

Add another can - this time add one with oil in it - check with a GOOD parts house as to what weight PAG oil to use in it - the oils come in several viscosities just like motor oil. Use the wrong oil and it will shorten the life of the compressor or clog the system. But just add one can with oil, no more.

As the can gets sucked out it will get cold, then back to room temp - indicating it's empty - CAREFUL UNSCREWING THE CAN - IT STILL CAN BLIND YOU -- ALWAYS USE GOGGLES.

As you add, watch the temp gauge - as it fills the inside temp will keep dropping - keep watch on it.

If it's still dropping when that can is empty, add another can (with no oil.) As you add the temp will drop to a point - somewhere between 55 and 40 degrees, then start going back up. Just as it starts to go back up - stop adding - it's full!

Too much will not cool as well and will possibly blow a seal or hose.
Resist the temptation to add stop leak.

If it loses it's charge in a year or less, then the yellow dye and ultra-violet light might find the leak. I've never had much luck with the dyes unless it's a big leak.

Now - even if it's freezing outside this winter - run the AC at least every month for at least 5 minutes! That keeps the compressor seals from drying out.

Let us know how it goes.
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Old 07-14-2010, 11:04 AM   #17
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Now if this makes sense and its low on r134. How do I fill it if the compressor won't kick on?
The can the R-134 is in is pressurized. As the system is recharged, the compressor will eventually kick on once there is enough pressure present.
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Old 07-15-2010, 07:06 PM   #18
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The recharge kit that I bought came with a gauge. I got it at Consumer Auto Parts. Made by Arctic Freeze. Probably available elsewhere.
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:16 PM   #19
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Well I hit the service port for the a/c and a lot of refridgerant came out. Tried using the paperclip to bypass it and it still didn't kick on.
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:23 PM   #20
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It's clear you need to take it to an a/c guy who knows what he is doing.
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:41 PM   #21
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Yup.
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:12 AM   #22
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Sounds like it's a more complicated problem than you'd want to tackle.
The paper clip should have engaged the clutch.

From here it gets complicated, could be the switch inside not powering the relay, the relay or wiring, or even an open clutch. If you have a wiring diagram of the system you might try ringing it out yourself.
Try measuring the resistance of the clutch - or even running 12 volts to it - disconnect the connector, 12 volts to one wire, the other to ground.

It would be too difficult to guide you through it over the internet, sorry.

If it was here I wouldn't hesitate to jump right in, unfortunately I do it often enough. It's always something stupid, but it takes time and lots of concentration - and the right tools.

Somebody familiar with AC systems could probably nail it down fairly quickly.

Sorry, we tried.
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Old 07-17-2010, 06:43 PM   #23
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Its the effort that counts, thanks all!
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Old 07-18-2010, 12:50 AM   #24
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If you have the factory service manual and a voltmeter you could start at the limit switch. See if there's power there.

It's just tedious work, not rocket science, but with a little knowledge of electricity it's not impossible. The FSM tells you the wire colors, which makes it alot easier.

Don't get confused with the wire to the ECM, it only "tells" the ECM that the air's on and to speed the R's up a little. That's one way to tell if the dash switch is working - if you turn on the switch and the R's raise, the dash switch is OK.

Doing the same process on a Cherokee today, no conclusion yet as I ran out of time. This one isn't so simple - more like a nightmare - somebody did lots of rewiring without knowledge of how things work.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:52 PM   #25
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2002 vacum problem

What vacum hoses should have vacum when the switch in in each position.

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