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Old 05-28-2010, 11:16 AM   #1
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Pull to the right after brake job

Long story...I did a brake job on Sunday, went to test the new pads and rotors out and my passenger side brake line blew on me (better on a back road than the highway I guess). I replaced the line, re-bled everything and it was all good. Yesterday my passenger side caliper seized on me while I was on the highway (should have done calipers with the brake job instead of just the caliper bolts and shims), I didn't drive it too far after I realized what was happening and got a tow back home. The caliper was hot but never turned purple or red from the heat. I went to Autozone and picked up two new calipers and just installed them this morning. Now when I am braking I get a slight pull on my right side, more so when I brake hard. However while I'm driving I get no pull at all.

Should I try to bleed the brakes more? Could the right side rotor be warped from the caliper seizing yesterday? I rotated it while it was still on the hub and there was no visible warping to my eye. Can a caliper be warped on a micrometer level and still effect braking? Or could this be an alignment issue? After doing the pads and rotors on Sunday there was no pull in either direction while braking hard, it makes no sense to me.

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Old 05-28-2010, 11:26 AM   #2
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Autozone parts usually suck. I went through 3 Alternators once and the 3rd one was good, after I wasted my time installing 3 times..

Sounds like a sticky caliper, but I'm no brake expert.

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Old 05-28-2010, 11:29 AM   #3
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From my experience if the caliper had warped you would get some shake or vibration when braking. Sounds like your left side caliper isnt working properly which would make the right side braking harder and pulling you that way. Could still have some air in the lines or the new caliper may not be good. I have got new calipers before and they were bad.
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:05 PM   #4
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I'm going to re-bleed both sides and reset the caliper piston on the left side and see if that helps. I know both sides are braking because heat is being generated on both sides, I'm hoping it is just air in the line.
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:35 PM   #5
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Re-bleeding would be my first step as well.
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:37 PM   #6
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I'd say re-bleed just to check...if the master cyclinder went empty at some point you may have to try to bleed closer to there if possible.....I've worked in an auto shop for years and we pre-cut every rotor new or old before putting them back on the car with the new pads. All companies have a tolerence for an item to be considered within spec. and more than likely your rotors are out of parallel and could use a turn on the lathe to true them up.
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Old 05-28-2010, 12:56 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Brad[LK1] View Post
I'd say re-bleed just to check...if the master cyclinder went empty at some point you may have to try to bleed closer to there if possible.....I've worked in an auto shop for years and we pre-cut every rotor new or old before putting them back on the car with the new pads. All companies have a tolerence for an item to be considered within spec. and more than likely your rotors are out of parallel and could use a turn on the lathe to true them up.
but from my experience, that would create more of a vibration than a pull.
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Old 05-28-2010, 01:02 PM   #8
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yeah x3 on the re-bleed, probably a little air in the left side.

If you really wanted to test out your rotors you could switch 'em and see it if pulls the other direction. But, even if one was thinner than the other, the calipers should compinsate and share the load evenly. As far as warped, they would definitely pulse when applying steady force to the brakes.
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Old 05-28-2010, 01:12 PM   #9
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Just re-bled them, two air bubbles on the right side but everything seemed fine on the left. I also used a C-clamp and reset the left caliper piston prior to that. It still pulls to the right while braking though. It is very sporadic when it pulls however, sometimes it'll pull when braking lightly but others only when braking heavy. I noticed that the wear on the left side doesn't seem all that even anymore. I'm going to take a picture and post it very soon. Also there seems to be a little pull towards the left while driving but not while braking?
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Old 05-28-2010, 02:27 PM   #10
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Glazed rotor on the opposite side of the pulling could also be the problem.
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Old 05-28-2010, 02:42 PM   #11
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What does a glazed rotor look like? I just took it for a 40 minute drive to see if the pads need to be broke in more or something. The braking power is awesome compared to before replacing the calipers however it is just pulling to the right at times
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Old 05-28-2010, 03:03 PM   #12
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I had it happen (pull to one side) when my left caliper was sticking on the pins that it is supposed to float on. It caused the inside pad to wear down to nothing and the outside was about new.

When you put the new calipers on, how did the studs look that it is supposed to "float" on?
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Old 05-28-2010, 04:19 PM   #13
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There's the wives tale!
A shops $5000 Amco brake lathe - or similar - does a better job at getting a rotor straight than the factory 4 million dollar machine?

By that theory a 20 cent file would do even better.

Try something - cut a rotor to where you think it's straight. Dismount it completely, then remount it. Why isn't it straight anymore? Gremlins?

The trouble is they use tapered cones to mount it. Turning or grinding it on the car - mounted on it's bearings like it will stay gets it straight.

But that's not the problem - the complaint would be "it pulsates."

You did the rear too?

How do you tell front or rear?

Make a stop - no hands on the wheel.
The wheel jerks and radically pulls? Front.
The vehicle drifts to the side, the wheel turns slightly, but not a hard jerk.
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Old 05-28-2010, 05:02 PM   #14
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Both sets of caliper bolts were new and came with the calipers. I greased them when I put them in too. The caliper bolts went on very smoothly on the right side, the left side gave me a little trouble but I got them on eventually and when I reset the left caliper piston earlier I took the bolts back off, reset them and re-torqued them to 11ft-lbs. Maybe I'll pop off my right tire and reset/inspect the caliper bolts.

What does "cutting" a rotor refer too? I did not bleed the rear as I did that on Monday once I replaced the entire passenger brake line. After doing both front calipers today I just bled the front. When braking hard the wheel jerks radically pulling toward the right
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Old 05-28-2010, 05:04 PM   #15
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Check for proper fit (calipers and pads) and make sure the pads aren't making any contact with the rotor hat.
Were all sliding contact surfaces cleaned or filed and lubricated with brake lubricant?
Your right line was bad, perhaps your left line is partially clogged/acting up as well.
Rear drums out of adjustment could be causing a pull.
If a brake is dragging, it should get very hot compared to the others, possibly smoke.
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Old 05-28-2010, 10:18 PM   #16
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The term "cutting" or "turning" a rotor is when they put it on a machine which turns the rotor and and shaves metal from both sides until they get it true or parallel removing the warp. That is if it is'nt warped so bad that it would require to much shaving.
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Old 06-01-2010, 01:39 AM   #17
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i had the same thing happen to my old truck.it would pull to the left during braking. ended up being a collapsed hose.
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Old 06-03-2010, 03:43 PM   #18
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I've heard about that being a problem too, I'll be taking another look at it this weekend and sanding down my pads, I'm 99% sure they are glazed. For $15/each I might as well replace the rubber hoses
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Old 06-03-2010, 03:52 PM   #19
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Sounds like a sticky caliper.
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Old 06-05-2010, 05:37 PM   #20
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Did another complete brake overhaul today... Replaced the pads under Autozone's warranty for free instead of sanding down the pads. Check out the link below, these bad boys were glazed bad. I also spent the money for some Napa Premium rotors just to rule out the other ones being warped. Along with this I changed the soft brake hose on both sides.
http://img9.imageshack.us/i/img00042201006051416.jpg/

http://img6.imageshack.us/i/img00043201006051417.jpg/

Besides the caliper freezing and glazing my pads I think the panic stopping I did to "bed" the brakes glazed the old pads over bad. I've taken it much easier on this kit per mrblaine's recommendations I found in a thread on JF. I might need to get on them a little more however because I don't think they are fully bedded yet. Overall though it brakes great and straight, must've been the rotors or pads but the new calipers are solid.

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