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Old 02-01-2011, 10:10 PM   #1
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Question about angle of motor mount rubber after BL & MML. PICS

Hey guys, I installed a JKS 1.25" BL and 1" MML. I have some concerns about the angle of the rubber part of the OEM portion of the motor mount. It seems like it is angled back towards the cab. Seems like this would put a lot of stress on this part and lead to early failure. Is this how it's suppose to look? If not, what's causing it and how do I fix it?
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:14 PM   #2
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That's the passenger's side mount and it's not tightened down in the pic but looks same when tightened.

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Old 02-02-2011, 04:55 AM   #3
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No one can help me out on this?
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:15 PM   #4
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:09 PM   #5
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you didn't loosen the transmission mount when installing the MML, did you?
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:11 PM   #6
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I can't help you right now, but when I can I'll look at mine and see if they look like that.
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:31 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04
you didn't loosen the transmission mount when installing the MML, did you?
Nope, loosened the 4 bolts on the skid yesterday at my father in laws recommendation and they came forward a bit (now all the way forward in the slots). I posted this on another forum today and they all say that this is normal for the budget motor mounts using the stock MM with a spacer below it.
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:36 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by TroutBumTJ View Post
Nope, loosened the 4 bolts on the skid yesterday at my father in laws recommendation and they came forward a bit (now all the way forward in the slots). I posted this on another forum today and they all say that this is normal for the budget motor mounts using the stock MM with a spacer below it.
loosen the tranny mount again and take some of the weight off the motor mounts with a jack. retighten the tranny mount and let the engine down.
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:41 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04
loosen the tranny mount again and take some of the weight off the motor mounts with a jack. retighten the tranny mount and let the engine down.
They are already all the way forward in their slots.
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:48 PM   #10
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Or am I wrong to think they should be forward in the slots?
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:57 PM   #11
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I can't help you right now, but when I can I'll look at mine and see if they look like that.
Thank you, you've been a big help.
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:57 PM   #12
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Or am I wrong to think they should be forward in the slots?
no, they should be forward...its a triangle...so you just increased the height of the triangle, but the hypotenuse hasn't changed length, so the base must get shorter.

dremel the slots about 1/4" longer.
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Old 02-03-2011, 07:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ageless Stranger
I can't help you right now, but when I can I'll look at mine and see if they look like that.
Hey Ageless, what do you think?
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:17 PM   #14
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Hey Ageless, what do you think?
Sorry. I completely forgot to do that yesterday. My evening was crazy after I got off work. I just went out and took some pics of the passenger side mount and I'm uploading now...
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:24 PM   #15
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Mine does not look like yours. Looks like you need to break everything loose and try to get the vibration isolator back in the center of the mount.





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Old 02-03-2011, 08:38 PM   #16
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Thanks for the reply. How should I do that? It seems like I need to pull the entire engine forward a bit. I guess I need to dremel the transmission mount slots after all? I don't think I can bring it any further forward without doing so. Seems like I've had more trouble than I should with this process.
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:43 PM   #17
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I would probably loosen or remove the bolts on the mount after taking the weight off it. (jack the engine up) Then I would try to push (or lightly hammer) on the metal part to see if it could be persuaded back to where it belongs. Hang on and I'll get someone in here that's smarter than me...
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Old 02-03-2011, 08:52 PM   #18
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Thanks
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Old 02-03-2011, 09:04 PM   #19
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loosen the 4 t-case bolts as mentioned. and loosen the engine mount bolts. Jack the drivetrain up/slowly down a few times to get it to settle back into position.

If the rubber doesn't set back into the motor mount, you can use a pry bar and stick it between the motor mount and the mount on the block to pry forward.

If the mount moves forward and then pops back out towards the rear...the motor mount rubber may be old/hardened and not fitting secure in the mount anymore....fix...replace the mount.
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Old 02-03-2011, 09:09 PM   #20
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↑ Troutbum, That's the guy who is smarter than me.
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Old 02-04-2011, 05:35 PM   #21
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Distorted, I did what you said. Loosened everything up. When I release the jack the weight of the engine pulls the rubber portion back out. I think I'm just gonna need to invest in the rigid motor mounts like the MORE bombproofs. Hate I spent this $50 on this now. Should have went for the heavier duty setup from the start.
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Old 02-05-2011, 08:51 AM   #22
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Problem identified

OK so i'm an idiot. I just saw that the PO had a transfer case drop installed. I noticed the square tubing between the skid plate and frame before but I thought it was stock. But the more I thought about it, it just didn't make sense as to why Jeep would design it that way. I hope nothing was hurt by having both the MML and TC drop installed for a short time. Maybe drove it 5 miles. I'm gonna remove the drop as soon as i get home tonight. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this was the problem all along.
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Old 02-05-2011, 05:11 PM   #23
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The factory skid plate bolts are expensive, but made to fit the skid correctly and are highly recommended.

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