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Old 12-19-2012, 09:18 AM   #1
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Quick overdrive question

I've read the manual for my 04 Rubi regarding the overdrive on/off button...but I need clarification from some experts.

Is it safe/okay to turn the overdrive on/off while driving or do you need to be stopped?

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Old 12-19-2012, 09:21 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by vwlos View Post
I've read the manual for my 04 Rubi regarding the overdrive on/off button...but I need clarification from some experts.

Is it safe/okay to turn the overdrive on/off while driving or do you need to be stopped?
You can turn it on or off anytime, no problem.

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Old 12-19-2012, 09:57 AM   #3
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^^ Yup, you can switch it on the fly!! Now if you are say down around 30 MPH or less you aren't going to feel it kick in. It's not like switching into 4Lo where you have to do steps.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:17 AM   #4
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Thanks for the replies! I guess I'll be pressing this button often until I regear.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:45 AM   #5
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I've not researched it but I've wondered if there's anyway to program it to default to Overdrive OFF (switch on) rather than Overdrive ON (switch off) on each start. Even with everything still stock I find myself reaching down and turning it off while running around town until I'm at cruising speed on the highway.
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:47 PM   #6
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Thanks for the replies! I guess I'll be pressing this button often until I regear.
And unfortunately you will still be pushing that button after you regear. The 4 speed auto in our '03 - '06 TJ's has a pretty steep jump in ratio from 3rd to Overdrive. Whether you are geared right or not there will always be that "unsweet spot" where the engine lugs. When I regeared that spot just moved from 55 - 60 mph to 40 - 45 mph. It defintely wants to kick in too soon at times. Still plenty of good reasons to use proper gearing though.
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by MiWranglers View Post
I've not researched it but I've wondered if there's anyway to program it to default to Overdrive OFF (switch on) rather than Overdrive ON (switch off) on each start. Even with everything still stock I find myself reaching down and turning it off while running around town until I'm at cruising speed on the highway.
Not really. Due to the OD being geared so high and so many wanting to do that, figuring out how do that would be like finding the Holy Grail.

And what size tires do you plan on upgrading to? You'll need to regear to a lower-than-usual axle ratio to compensate for that steep overdrive ratio.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:05 PM   #8
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It currently has 33's on it, but I'm pretty sure the PO never regeared it from the stock 4.10 gear. I haven't had the chance to check the number of driveshaft rotations/wheel rotation yet to verify the current gearing. It appears the PO did a half-ass job on the modifications.

Jerry,
On a different topic....is there a way I can tell if the PO installed a SYE or CV? As you can tell, I'm mechanically challenged and don't have a clue what I'm looking at under there.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:12 PM   #9
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Count the number of u-joints on your rear driveshaft. If there are two, one up front and one in the rear, that is the factory driveshaft. If there are three, one in the rear and two up front in a compact housing that houses both u-joints, that is an aftermarket CV driveshaft which would be bolted to a SYE flange.

A front driveshaft u-joint housing that houses two u-joints together with a hidden centering ball inside is a CV (constant velocity aka double-cardin) joint.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:39 PM   #10
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So this would be a stock rear driveshaft? And is it normal for it to be rusty?

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Old 12-19-2012, 11:55 PM   #11
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So this would be a stock rear driveshaft? And is it normal for it to be rusty?
Well from the photo yours is clearly a Rubi with the stock setup. It has no need for an SYE as tue tailshaft of the transfer case already has a fixed yoke and the slip joint is on the driveshaft but you might want to look into a CV shaft.

That looks like light surface rust and will not be a problem. If it bothers you remove it, clean off the rust and give it a coat of high heat paint. It is very easy to remove.

As for the gearing 4.88 is what you are looking at for 33" tyres and the 42rle. I still have stock 3.73 gearing with my 32"s and it is perfectly liveable but not ideal.

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Front: 2" BDS coils + JKU shocks
Rear: 2" BB + Zone Nitro shocks
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32" BFG AT on 16" Racing Hart
Ramsey Pro Plus 6000, IPF 900s 130W
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