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Old 06-09-2014, 07:14 PM   #1
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Raising tie rod assy?

Is there a way to raise my tie rod bar? Its the lowest thing that seems to get wacked & bent on me.

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Old 06-09-2014, 08:45 PM   #2
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Yes. You'll need to drill out the driver's side knuckle and put a tapered insert in and do some light welding.

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Old 06-09-2014, 09:12 PM   #3
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Blaine Johnson at Black Magic Brakes has been providing tie rod flip help for many years now, I sent him a link to this thread so he can respond. To me, his kit has been the original for many years now.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:18 PM   #4
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I'm interested in Blaine's TR flip insert/kit too.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:11 PM   #5
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Yes. You'll need to drill out the driver's side knuckle and put a tapered insert in and do some light welding.

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Hmm,I used this insert on my oblonged hole for my track bar.Funny,I didnt realize it was really used for what Im asking about.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:12 PM   #6
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Blaine Johnson at Black Magic Brakes has been providing tie rod flip help for many years now, I sent him a link to this thread so he can respond. To me, his kit has been the original for many years now.
Thanks Jerry.Im curious to see how/if its different than the other inserts out there.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:16 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 1jeeplvr View Post
Thanks Jerry.Im curious to see how/if its different than the other inserts out there.
It's probably better. Blaine's stuff is good stuff and he ships fast.

Oh, and for that track bar, You might want to get that fixed up right. Best way is to weld in a steel plate and redrill. Second best would be to weld a thick washer over the elongated hole. Last would be a replacement bracket unless you find one with thicker steel.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:25 PM   #8
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It's probably better. Blaine's stuff is good stuff and he ships fast.

Oh, and for that track bar, You might want to get that fixed up right. Best way is to weld in a steel plate and redrill. Second best would be to weld a thick washer over the elongated hole. Last would be a replacement bracket unless you find one with thicker steel.
Why would you consider my repair not fixed right? it seems its just as good as the factory setup.Ive been running it for over a year & hasent failed.I keep an eye on it closely & it hasent moved or failed.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:28 PM   #9
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Why would you consider my repair not fixed right? it seems its just as good as the factory setup.Ive been running it for over a year & hasent failed.I keep an eye on it closely & it hasent moved or failed.
Because you are using a tapered insert to do the job of a clamping bolt. There's a difference there.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:06 PM   #10
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Wait a sec. How in the heck did you put a tapered insert into the track bar bracket and still put in the track bar? Now I'm confused.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:09 PM   #11
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Wait a sec. How in the heck did you put a tapered insert into the track bar bracket and still put in the track bar? Now I'm confused.
Frame side maybe? Someone drilled for an aftermarket and he returned to a model with a tapered stud? I'm out of guesses after that.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:11 PM   #12
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Frame side maybe? Someone drilled for an aftermarket and he returned to a model with a tapered stud? I'm out of guesses after that.
If that side got boogered up he got big problem.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:28 PM   #13
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If that side got boogered up he got big problem.
I re-read the post, he said oblonged track bar hole, I'm thinking he used it as a sleeve for the bracket location or the bushing sleeve itself.
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:24 PM   #14
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Sorry,I didnt get any emails stating there were posts in my thread.Anyway,i had a oblonged hole in the mount for my track bar.Drilled the hole out and installed one of these tie rod flip inserts.The taper on the track bar is the same as the taper on a tie rod end


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