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Old 04-20-2013, 08:22 AM   #1
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rear main seal in process, quick question?

There seems to be a lot of variation in the online how-to's on the bearing cap sealant. Mopar says to apply anaerobic sealant in two 3mm lines and not to get any on the seal itself, like this


Has this been disproven? IFIRC when I did my old cherokee the Hayan's manual recommended RTV and put a dab directly on the seal? Which is better. Thanks!

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Old 04-20-2013, 08:41 AM   #2
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I have used RTV on a lot of two piece main seals in the past, but these days I do use anaerobic sealant instead. If MOPAR says to use it, I'd just use it..

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Old 04-20-2013, 08:43 AM   #3
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This is what I use. Works great on transmission/ transfer case housings as well.



http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...c-gasket-maker
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:51 AM   #4
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Thanks, I also like to use what the manufacturer recommends, it's what the design calls for...

Hopefully napa will have some anaerobic sealer, otherwise no wheeling this weekend!! No!!!
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:53 AM   #5
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One more thing, do I need to drop the exhaust to get the oil pan out?
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:54 AM   #6
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It's not just the 4.0L design, really any two piece main is a good place for anaerobic sealer. I used to build 225 Dauntless V6 Jeep engines, and the FSM for those calls for it.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HobieSailor View Post
Has this been disproven? IFIRC when I did my old cherokee the Hayan's manual recommended RTV and put a dab directly on the seal?
Older 4.0L engines (such as in the earlier Cherokees) utilized a different RMS. It had ears on the lower half which extended to the edge of the bearing cap.

Generally speaking, I would always resolve a FSM/Haynes Manual discrepancy in favor of the FSM.
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:21 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HobieSailor View Post
One more thing, do I need to drop the exhaust to get the oil pan out?
Yes indeed. Job is so simple but removing everything takes the most time. Good luck.

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