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Old 10-26-2009, 09:29 AM   #1
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Rear Pinion angle

Here is my thread on Jeepforum about this. Check it out

REAR PINION ANGLE

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Old 10-26-2009, 10:13 AM   #2
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Here is my rear pinion angle btw


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Old 10-26-2009, 10:40 AM   #3
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Is that a stock non-liftet TJ? Looks like a very low angle.
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:46 AM   #4
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that is a 2 inch lifted TJ 2 days after i lifted it. SO i netted around 2.5 all the way around and about 2.75 in the rear.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:02 AM   #5
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Your pinion angle is to high if that is not a cv shaft. If it is a cv shaft looks about right.

Wait just realized it is not a cv shaft. The pinion should be parallel with the output of the t-case. Pointing at it is for cv shafts.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:09 PM   #6
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Ok so a t case drop would take care of that correct? Because i think it's the angle that is causing my vibes
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:17 PM   #7
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do you have stock rear upper control arms?
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:17 PM   #8
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Yeah i do.

I just wanna get rid of these vibes. And by the looks of the picture i posted it seems like a t case drop would make it worse?
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:21 PM   #9
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IMO my pionion angle was about the same when I had a 2" BB.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:23 PM   #10
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Well my lift netted about 2.5 in the front and 2.75 in the rear. And my vibes are pretty bad..not horrible but they need to be corrected. So just lowering the T case would take care of this and the pinion angle will be fine for now?
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:27 PM   #11
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With the 2" spacers I had no vibes. With teh 2.5" OME lift I had some vibes. After dropping the TC with some washers they were gone.



Do you have a BL or do you want to install a BL in the future? With an additional MML the vibes would be also gone.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:34 PM   #12
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How many washers is that? 4? I have 3 in mine right now and the vibes are still there. I'll probably go ahead and add 2-3 more on top of the 3 to see how that works. But that is after i get all of my nutcerts replaced you remember the other thread.


I'll be getting a BL and MML when my 31s wear out and i want more room for 33s
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:41 PM   #13
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Make sure when adding washers that the bolts will still have sufficient engaged threads afterwards. If the bolts aren't long enough to give good thread engagement, it's easy to strip things out when tightening them. And the newer metric t-case bolts are shorter than the SAE bolts used in older TJs so they need to be replaced with longer bolts for anything more than about a half-inch t-case drop, if that much.

Make sure too to use Grade 5 for the SAE bolts and 10.9 rating (like a Grade 5) for metric bolts if you need longer bolts.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:44 PM   #14
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Hah thanks jerry. It's 2006sport from JF...my jeep is a bit...hmm cursed you could say lol.

I know the bolt is a 12mm thread. Any recommendation on length for a good t case drop?
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:47 PM   #15
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There is enough room in the frame. You can use 2" longer shocks than stock with only a 0.5" or 1" TC drop.

I would buy 1/2" nutserts, SAE bolts are way easier to find in the US than metric bolts.
Over here in Europe itīs vice versa.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:49 PM   #16
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I know the bolt is a 12mm thread. Any recommendation on length for a good t case drop?
Um, if you need to install a 1" t-case drop, go for a 1" longer bolt. Take one of the bolts out and after matching the threads, just find one slightly longer to match your needs. Make sure it's rated 10.9 or stronger.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:49 PM   #17
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Thanks nicolas. You have been EXTREMELY helpful in my past two threads. I really appreciate it.

You too Jerry, you're always helpful.
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:52 PM   #18
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There is enough room in the frame. You can use 2" longer shocks than stock with only a 0.5" or 1" TC drop.

I would buy 1/2" nutserts, SAE bolts are way easier to find in the US than metric bolts.
Over here in Europe itīs vice versa.
I find it as easy to find metric hardware as I do SAE hardware here. I can see why it'd be hard to find SAE in Germany since SAE was never used there. However, we have made the switch to metric for new products here in the U.S. so virtually all of our hardware stores sell metric size fasteners.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:04 PM   #19
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Jerry I didnīt know that. When I lived in CA about 10 years ago it was hard to find metric bolts.

IMO 8.8 metric bolts are enough. A 8.8 M12 bolt has a breaking strength of about 14,800 lbs. A 10.9 M12 has a breaking strength of about 19,400 lbs. The TC is bolted with 6 bolts to the frame. All the people I know use 8.8 bolts there and there never was a problem.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:08 PM   #20
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This makes me feel A LOT better about how things are going. Just get my nutserts replaced then drop the t case about a half inch at first, see how that goes and then go from there.

I appreciate all the help fellas.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:12 PM   #21
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I had 4 washers. each was 2 millimeters thick. All 4 were about 1/3" thick.


Donīt understand me wrong. I dont wanted to say: Use 8.8 bolts instead of 10.9 bolts.
The stock bolts are 10.9. So buy some longer 10.9 bolts.
Only if you canīt find 10.9 (the DIY markets donīt have this strength over here) then 8.8 would be ok for a while.
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:19 PM   #22
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Will do.

Thanks Nic and Jerry.
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Old 10-27-2009, 08:50 PM   #23
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Here is my rear pinion angle btw

An MML or dropping the transfer case will make the front and rear yoke point directly toward each other. So, no vibration if the suspension is neither compressed or drooped. If it flexes in either direction the pinion and transfer case yoke will not be parallel and the vibration will come and go as the suspension flexes. The only way to cure your problem without going to an SYE and CV, is to drop your pinion until it is parallel with output from the transfer case. With adjustable lower control arms you could push the bottom of the axle toward the rear, lowering the pinion. With adjustable upper control arms you could accomplish the same thing, but you would have to pull the top of the axle forward. This would accomplish the same thing for a vibration cure, but you would be shortening the arm and loosing articulation which is not a good thing.
Unquestionably the best solution for a TJ is an SYE and CV driveshaft. Be careful, cheap SYE kits do not upgrade the output shaft of your transfer case. I highly recommend JB Conversions in LA. The transfer case output
shaft is 40% stronger then stock.
I don't get the transfer case lowering business. My lift was to gain clearance under my transfer case (ramp breakover angle, means you don't get high centered), not just to look cool.
'97 TJ, 8 inch lift, 37" swampers and no vibrations.
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Old 10-27-2009, 08:55 PM   #24
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An MML or dropping the transfer case will make the front and rear yoke point directly toward each other. So, no vibration if the suspension is neither compressed or drooped. If it flexes in either direction the pinion and transfer case yoke will not be parallel and the vibration will come and go as the suspension flexes. The only way to cure your problem without going to an SYE and CV, is to drop your pinion until it is parallel with output from the transfer case. With adjustable lower control arms you could push the bottom of the axle toward the rear, lowering the pinion. With adjustable upper control arms you could accomplish the same thing, but you would have to pull the top of the axle forward. This would accomplish the same thing for a vibration cure, but you would be shortening the arm and loosing articulation which is not a good thing.
Unquestionably the best solution for a TJ is an SYE and CV driveshaft. Be careful, cheap SYE kits do not upgrade the output shaft of your transfer case. I highly recommend JB Conversions in LA. The transfer case output
shaft is 40% stronger then stock.
I don't get the transfer case lowering business. My lift was to gain clearance under my transfer case (ramp breakover angle, means you don't get high centered), not just to look cool.
'97 TJ, 8 inch lift, 37" swampers and no vibrations.
I am only doing the t case drop temporary as it is my DD and i cant afford a sye and CV conversion at the moment. I just need to ditch the vibes.

To the bolded part: i thought them pointing at each other was bad?
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:13 PM   #25
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I have always had a SYE on my past jeeps. The YJ i have now has a 4inch lift, 1 inch transfer case drop and the rear pinion angle looks like it might be little high. I only get vibration when i am accelerating, but not when holding it at a speed or when clutch is in. Is this driveshaft problem?? If it is driveshaft vibration can i drop the transfercase another inch

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