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Old 11-22-2009, 06:09 PM   #31
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Yes I did figure that part out and I found the retaining pin...unfortunately it won't budge and I don't want to strip the teeth off of it. Any suggestions to getting that little bugger off of there? I'm the slowest mechanic in the world...good thing I'm on vacation this next week.

I have the 1997 TJ Full Service manual, however it's actually different then what I have. It appears as though it's not all factory parts.

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Old 11-22-2009, 06:13 PM   #32
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There is a good chance the retaining pin has lock tite on the threads. I've never had one of the pins strip. Some times you can try and tighten the bolt before backing it out. Just be sure your tool doesn't have any slack on the bolt head before you give it the gusto.

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Old 11-22-2009, 06:17 PM   #33
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Weird post disappeared. I figured that out about the retaining pin and am trying to loosen it, however it won't budge. I don't want to grind the teeth off of it. Any suggestions on how to remove it?

Also I have the 97 TJ Full Service manual...however it's not identical to what I have. It appears as though some of my parts are not factory. I could tell when I pulled the diff cover off that it had been removed before.
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:19 PM   #34
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I'd hope so. A 97 should have quite a few miles on it. I'd at least hope the fluid has been changed a couple times by now.
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:22 PM   #35
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It has...it's got 135k on it. Any suggestions on loosening the retaining pin without stripping the teeth?
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:33 PM   #36
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put your purse down and hit it.
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:33 PM   #37
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Wow...I just scrolled up and noticed you already replied...sorry about that.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:14 PM   #38
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If you pull the axle you may as well go on and replace the seal with a new one.Also check the axle shaft for wear,thats normally the reason they don't hold that long after replacing the seal.If you do a search there is also one company that makes a double and triple lip axles seal.Not saying the silicone trick don't work but a new seal make the most sense with the shaft out already.As far as that goes throw some rtv in along with the new seal and you should not have to worry for a long time.BTW I think you should be able to pull the old seal without taking the backing plate bolts out.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:19 PM   #39
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BTW I think you should be able to pull the old seal without taking the backing plate bolts out.
That's a trick I'd love to see.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:25 PM   #40
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yeah I forgot that backing plate over laps the axle housing don't it!
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:28 PM   #41
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also wanted to mention the pic of the shaft from the FSM that stump put up is a D44 not the D35
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Old 11-22-2009, 08:55 PM   #42
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Well the diff is definitely a D35...do I have a D44 shaft though?? Wasn't aware that was possible.
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:24 PM   #43
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Well the diff is definitely a D35...do I have a D44 shaft though?? Wasn't aware that was possible.

You have a dana 35 shaft in your dana 35.
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:16 AM   #44
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Alright...after I put my purse down I finally got the retaining bolt to move then the other bolt slid right out. Then pushed the axle in and the CClip popped right off. However now the axle won't budge...is it because I picked my purse back up or is there something else I'm missing?
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:36 AM   #45
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The friction at the splined end of the axle shaft where it slides through the carrier is holding it. Just pull harder (put your purse down first ). As a last resort you can place a piece of chain over two lug nuts, nut it in place, then attach that chain to something heavy & then turn it into a "slide hammer" of sorts to provide a little more force to jerk the shaft out.
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:52 AM   #46
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Or flip the drum around and put 3 lug nuts on it a about 3 turns and use it like a slide hammer.....Works great if not super hard to remove.
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:30 AM   #47
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Alright as genius as the idea with the drum is...it's still stuck after about 50 yanks on it. Not even budging a hair. It wiggles a little and slides out about 1/10 of an inch...but that's it. Guess I'll get out there and keep trying.

Yes I put my purse down....
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:03 PM   #48
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as long as the c clip is out and laying on your floor there is nothing else holding that thing in there. pull/beat harder.
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:05 PM   #49
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Make sure you get the C Clip out. There are 2 of them. One for each side.
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:09 PM   #50
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here is a pic of the c clip. The cross shaft has already been removed.
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:14 PM   #51
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:50 PM   #52
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Make sure you get the C Clip out. There are 2 of them. One for each side.
He already got the c-clips out, post #44.
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Old 11-23-2009, 01:11 PM   #53
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Alright...mission accomplished. A neighbor of mine knows a Jeep Master Mechanic...so he gave him a call and he said take a pry bar to the inside of the shaft within the differential. I would have thought that this would have caused damage to the gears since I'm essentially using them to get leverage...but no damage and it worked. Between that and using the drum as a slide hammer the axle came out quite abruptly...luckily I was sitting, so I didn't go flying backwards. Gooped up the seal and putting everything back to together now!

Thanks for everyones help...it's been a learning experience!!
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Old 11-23-2009, 01:16 PM   #54
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...it's been a learning experience!!
Excellent news that you got the job done! Now your experience will prove valuable to others when you offer to help the next guy out who has a similar issue in the future. That's what all these Jeep forums are all about.
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Old 11-23-2009, 01:41 PM   #55
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Good work. After everything is back together don't forget your purse.
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Old 11-23-2009, 03:12 PM   #56
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Yea got my purse and went for a test drive and nothing fell off. It still has a humming when it gets to 40 MPH...but I'm going to have the tires rotated and balanced and see if that's where the noise is coming from. Watching it for now to make sure there's no more leak though. At least now I can do it within a reasonable amount of time if I needed to.

Thanks for answering my annoying questions for the last 2 days!
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:19 PM   #57
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Alright...still leaking...guess it's not what I thought it was even though it looked like it was leaking...either that or I didn't seal it well enough. So going to do this again...and replace the wheel cylinder while I'm at it. Hopefully get to that in the next few days...
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Old 11-24-2009, 01:55 PM   #58
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Seals are the only thing that i don't reuse no matter what. I was actually very surprised when someone said to goober it in silicone. I was thinking to myself "wtf?! that's not gonna work!" but sometimes it does, sometimes not. The way I see it, the axle seal is important because the axle is a rotating part, and busted seals on rotating parts are picky.

+1 for learning something. Now that you've done an axle job, you will now have the itch to learn to do other things. Jeeps are one of the easiest vehicles to work on, because the design of the vehicle mechanics hasn't really changed all that much in decades. Hell, my HMMWV is a model year 2008 and it is the exact same thing as the original 1984 design (i think that's the year) except for the steering wheel (now thicker plastic) and headlight control (digital instead of manual locking levers)
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Old 11-28-2009, 03:57 PM   #59
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So I had 4 wheel parts take a look when they rotated and balanced my tires (I know most people hate them), but they pointed out that the shaft itself is loose and shouldn't have any play on it. So after 5 min on craigslist I found a guy that gave me 3 axle shafts (2 passenger and 1 driver for $50). Went to autozone and rented the slide hammer to pull the bearing out and am about to pull the shaft, seal and bearing and replace everything this time. Should go much quicker this time. Gonna get some leftover turkey and dressing first though.
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:55 PM   #60
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Quick question...I got everything taken apart except for the old seal and bearings which I'll continue to fight with tomorrow, seems like a dremel would come in good here to cut out a section...but will keep fighting with it before taking that approach. Otherwise I got everything taken apart in record time this time.

My question though...the axles I bought are not ABS, but the ones I removed do have the ABS Teeth on them even though I appear to be missing the ABS fuse, so I wonder if I even have ABS and this axles been replaced before with an ABS Axle.

How can I confirm if I have ABS or not? If I do is the ABS Axle required? The guy I got them from said it would just throw the ABS light but wouldn't cause any problems.

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