Rear track bar relocation bracket torx bolt stripped.. help - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 10-21-2007, 09:42 PM   #1
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Rear track bar relocation bracket torx bolt stripped.. help

So today i finished installing the front end of my RC kit in a bit more than 3 hrs. All good.

When working on to the rear i stripped the darn torx screw that holds the track bar to the axle. Who the hell puts torx bolt there anyways... grrrr

Any ideas?

Thanks

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Old 10-21-2007, 09:56 PM   #2
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go get a replacement bolt.

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Old 10-21-2007, 09:57 PM   #3
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is the bolt still stuck in its location? if so you can try vice-grips or if you have dremel you can cut the bolt to where it is flat on the sides instead of round then use a wrench or vise-grips.

hope that helps, if not try and post a pic of what your deal is and maybe i can give you a better answer.
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Old 10-21-2007, 10:07 PM   #4
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ok the center of the bolt is stripped (where the torx goes into the bolt) and the bolt is still in there, Its a bit loosened but still tight. There isn't much space to work with in there since the fuel tank is in the way (right in front of the bolt).

I guess i'll have to try the Dremmel tool idea unless some one has a better idea. The problem with that is not much space to grind...

I am taking pics along so when i'm done i'll make a write up and hopefully help some one in my boat.

I will be replacing that freaking torx bolt w/ a regular nice bolt Once i get it out that is.
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Old 10-21-2007, 10:43 PM   #5
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The reason its still tight is the nut on the other side is a locking nut. If you replace it with a regular bolt be sure to get a new locking nut, and use some locktight just to be sure.
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Old 10-21-2007, 10:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzTJ View Post
The reason its still tight is the nut on the other side is a locking nut. If you replace it with a regular bolt be sure to get a new locking nut, and use some locktight just to be sure.
Whats the difference if i just replace the bolt it self and use the original nut?
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Old 10-21-2007, 11:23 PM   #7
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from a mechanical stand point you're better off with a torx bolt than a hex head. Are you sure that you're using the right size torx bits? Think of it like your axle shaft, the more splines the more force we can safely apply before something slips off or breaks loose. Torx bits have twice as many splines as hex heads.

As for a fix, I'm gonna go with distorted on this, vice grips. don't try to turn the torx head though, just hold it in place and turn the nut on the back side. The problem with dremeling is that I don't think you have enough space to slide the bolt out the other way without dropping your gas tank, that's going to lead you to dremel both sides. My advice is to work smarter not harder, and save cutting as a last resort.
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Old 10-21-2007, 11:59 PM   #8
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I can drop the axle just enough to slide out the bolt. The problem w/ turning the nut is the back side is completely blocked off so i cannot turn the nut. The nut it self is welded to a piece of metal so the nut has an "ear" so it cannot turn. I'll try to take few pics and show you what i'm talking about.

The torx head is the biggest thing that fits in there and its quite tight.
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Old 10-22-2007, 07:02 AM   #9
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I know the flange you're talking about. if you have room to swing a hammer see if you can slam in the next size up torx bit, you'll ruin the bit and screw what's left of the bolt, but it might work and you've always got the option of cutting if you need it.
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Old 10-22-2007, 08:34 AM   #10
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Nope no room for that. Actually when i put in the bit on the wrench and put it in the bolt the gas tank is rubbing agains the outside end of the wrench.

I'll get some strong vice grips today and see what i can acomplish. BTW doing the rear side is a pain in the a$$ because you dont have any space to swing a wrench.

Now i know why they say to finish the front first, so you get experience, grow some bigger balls and get used to it because the rear is tougher.
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Old 10-22-2007, 04:58 PM   #11
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Just got the bolt out. I went to the store and bought big vice grips. I gripped the bolt and spun it with a huge pipe at the end of the vice grips for leverage. Took about 10 minutes but the end result is success. The torx patter inside is chewed up so unless i had some good powertools and dropped the gas tank, there is no other way to get it out. I shall go to the store now and get a hex head bolt and toss that one in the TRASH.

Thanks for all your help everyone and hopefully this info will help some 1 else too.

btw there are about 2.5" from the bolt hole to the gas tank clearance with the lower control arm disconnected and the axle shifter forward.

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