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Old 11-12-2012, 09:38 PM   #1
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Rear wheel bearing trouble?????

from time to time i have heard some popping/grinding sounds coming fron the back of the jeep. i have heard it about 4 times now. i have tryed to make it do it , turning circles in a parking lot . but it wouldent. i could never pin point it some times it sounds like the rubber bushings making noise's. and i seen that one of the back tires wobbles when going down the road. you cant feel it. but when your following the jeep you can see it. i had it pulled off and checked to see if it was balanced. it was pretty close.
but the guy found this. here is a short clip . both sides do it but the driver side is the worst.
VIDEO0043 - YouTube

do i need bearings ? is this normal? what the parts cost ? how long does it take? big job VS. so so job. would i need a press?

i need some feed back. i have not looked at the FSM yet but i will.
just trying to get a heads up first befor i jump in to anything.
thanks.

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Old 11-13-2012, 04:59 AM   #2
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:13 AM   #3
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If it's a Dana 35.... the bearings are pressed into the axle housing which requires a bearing removal tool attached to a slide hammer to remove from the axle tube.

If it's a D44.... the bearings are pressed onto the axle shaft... unless you have a press, or skills to remove the bearings by other methods, take it to a shop.

A small amount of play I believe is normal... hard to tell what is excessive on a video. I have a little on mine.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:33 PM   #4
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thanks TnDz TJ,
its a D35. i was not sure if they had a little play or not thats why i ask.
i plan on taking it on a trip in a few weeks 5 hours each way. i was starting to worry about it. i cant go out and drop a large some of cash to a shop.
and it look like the FSM listed a butt load of tools . so i thought i could get alot of feed back on here.
thanks again.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:59 PM   #5
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The in-out axleshaft movement is absolutely 100% normal for a Dana 35c axle. That's due to its c-clip design where the axle shaft needs to be pushed inward from where it normally rides at so the c-clip can be removed from its recess in the carrier that keeps it in place.

The up-down movement is worrisome so you may indeed have a bearing or axle shaft wear issue. Aside from the slide bearing puller mentioned by TnDZ TJ to remove the old bearing, it doesn't require anything more than basic tools to remove/replace the axle shaft & bearing.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:06 PM   #6
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thanks jerry.
i guess i can rent that from one of the parts stores?
i have been reading the FSM. how long should this take? and how much is the bearing and i take it a seal ?
thanks yall!

ps. with my luck its the shaft and bearing .
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:09 PM   #7
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From start to finish it should take a non-pro no more than a couple hours. The bearing & seal will be <$20 including shipping if you buy it online.

Bearing: TIMKEN Part # LM501349
Seal: OMIX-ADA Part # 1653411
www.rockauto.com

Caution that the axle shaft itself might also be worn where it rides against the bearing... but the good news is that good used replacement Dana 35c shafts are cheap.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:16 PM   #8
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thanks ,
rear diff gasket?

and if it was a the axle also, how much are they?
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:17 PM   #9
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Don't forget the gear oil and gasket material in your shopping list.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:19 PM   #10
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No need for a diff cover gasket, you can use Permatex RTV Ultra-Black which is silicone in a tube at your local auto parts store. Or use a Lube-Locker gasket which can be reused, which can be found on-line.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:45 PM   #11
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Are these part numbers for a 2005?
thanks
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve67 View Post
Are these part numbers for a 2005?
thanks
Everything is the same for 97-06.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
No need for a diff cover gasket, you can use Permatex RTV Ultra-Black which is silicone in a tube at your local auto parts store. Or use a Lube-Locker gasket which can be reused, which can be found on-line.
Form-a-gasket, felpro, I once had to use TP offload for a gasket.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:19 PM   #14
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Ha TP as a gasket, I believe it. I had to cut out a gasket out from a MRE (Meals, Ready to Eat) cardboard box for my thermostat housing during last year's WF Meet 'n Greet. It was leak free until I changed the thermostat two weeks later... and I suspect it probably would have stayed leak free a lot longer.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Ha TP as a gasket, I believe it. I had to cut out a gasket out from a MRE (Meals, Ready to Eat) cardboard box for my thermostat housing during last year's WF Meet 'n Greet. It was leak free until I changed the thermostat two weeks later... and I suspect it probably would have stayed leak free a lot longer.
Actually the nut on the output shaft on my T-18 came off and dropped along with the output gear and washer into the transfer case. I fished out the parts with a coat hanger which was previously being used as my radio antenna. To seal up the cover plate in the transfer case the only thing we had alongside the freeway was TP as we were coming back from camping in the dunes at Pismo Beach.

What was funnier on that trip was a friend had his fuel pump quit and put a 5 gal Jerry can on the cowel and a siphon hose going to his carb. He also used a .38 to put the hole in the hood for the hose. The hole made for good campfire tales later.

This was back in the '70's with CJ5's.
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:47 AM   #16
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Hah that is such a great 70's Jeep story. The 70's were sure different.
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:29 AM   #17
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you can use Permatex RTV Ultra-Black which is silicone in a tube at your local auto parts store.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:46 PM   #18
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i guess i will dive into this this weekend.

tube of black RTV
axle seal
bearing
diff oil.... ( any 80w 90 or go back with Mopar lub?) and how much do i need?
bearing puller on slide hammer.
basic hand tools.

is that it?

oh yeah it has 56,000 in it. i thought new plugs may help MPG. i doubt they have been changed.
anyone know the stock plug it takes? or should i go with a new type?
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:48 PM   #19
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Two quarts of nearly any 75W-90, 80W-90, etc. GL-5 gear lube is fine. Technically it holds 2.1 quarts but I have never gotten that much into mine.

We'll need to know what engine and model year you have before proper spark plug suggestions can be made.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:10 PM   #20
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sorry,
2005
4.0
thanks.

boy the part place's NAPA carquest etc. sure mark up the price's.

but i dont think i could get them here by the weekend if i did it on line.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:27 PM   #21
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I seem to have that same popping from time to time on my 99 with D44. I kept thinking the brake was getting caught up on something or I had bad gears. I went through both and felt it again today. Bearings is not what I wanted to hear.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:40 PM   #22
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yeah that was wishful thinking on my part as well.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve67 View Post
2005
4.0
Best that I know of: Autolite XP985, an Iridium tipped spark plug that will probably perform well for nearly 200K miles.
Otherwise, the Champion 7034 or Autolite APP985 (NOT the AP985) are both superb dual platinum-tipped plugs that will perform well for 100K miles.

Your distributorless 4.0L engine is rather fussy about its plugs so be wary of what you buy. Avoid any single-tipped Platinum plugs like the Autolite AP985 or Champion 3034. No Bosch Plus2 or Plus4 plugs either, they just don't perform well in the 4.0L engine.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:35 PM   #24
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Thanks Jerry,
i will and this info to my shopping list.
should i expect better MPG with these new improved plugs?
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:19 PM   #25
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Finally got the bearing job done.
there is alot of little things a guy should know
on that job, that dont hit you untill its to late.
i have not drove it yet but i think it will be ok.

i have wiring problems now with the trailer hitch.
see new post please.

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