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Old 07-22-2013, 12:45 PM   #1
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Removing Nutserts

While removing my skid plate to work on my exhaust and recoat the plate, 3 or the 6 bolt heads snapped. The nutserts themselves are quite rusted. I figure I have to drill them out, and that's going to damage the threads in the nutserts. I've read this famous thread a few times Nutsert for Transfer Case Removal and Install - JeepForum.com but am not quite tracking on removal. I see the nutserts have some weld on them, but it seems age and rust are around them. Been wire brushing the rust off the frame with a drill. So, should I simply take my angle grinder to it and pop it out with a screwdriver or chisel, drill the whole thing out, or what? Looking to hear your stories of what works before I get ahead of myself. Started to drill one bolt, but it was off-center the way it broke.

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Old 07-22-2013, 02:49 PM   #2
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Don't bother drilling them out, just grind the head off of them and punch them up into the frame. Replace all 6 with new nutserts and use lots of antiseize so you don't have any trouble with them next time you have to remove them.

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Old 07-22-2013, 03:04 PM   #3
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Any special way to grind them off without jacking up the frame? Newer to angle grinders, still need to develop that finesse.

Pretty sure these are the originals on a 97, so not too shabby lifespan
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Old 07-22-2013, 06:34 PM   #4
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It's been a couple of years since I did it, but I don't remember too much trouble grinding them down. There's a lot of metal on the frame so I don't think you can do much damage to it.
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:03 PM   #5
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Newer to angle grinders, still need to develop that finesse.
Be careful with that beast. Use the provided shield, use eye protection, hold on tight.
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:04 PM   #6
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This is how well the nutserts are originally welded. Replace them all. I would weld the new ones in
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:34 PM   #7
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Be careful with that beast. Use the provided shield, use eye protection, hold on tight.
Got all that covered. Have a metal head on it now from cutting bolts...

Have read about a 50/50 opinion base of welding vs not so far. Specific benefits to it? Don't own any welding materials
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:54 PM   #8
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I drilled all the way up and replaced them with with a longer bolt through the top of the frame... I have a 2" body though that will be harder stock height. You have to have the skid off to get the bit though the whole farmer bottom to top
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:01 PM   #9
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Have read about a 50/50 opinion base of welding vs not so far. Specific benefits to it? Don't own any welding materials
If your jeep was born and bred in the south there is less to worry about. On a more rusted frame I would have my doubts about how well nutserts could hold-on.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:01 PM   #10
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When I had my dogs cut off it calmed him waaaay down. He got fat though. Oh wait a minute, I thought this was about something else.... carry on.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:08 PM   #11
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Jeep was born and bred in the north, but the rust isn't too bad. Previous owner coated the underside
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:15 PM   #12
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Took the angle grinder to them this afternoon. Got 4 out of 6, knock out the other two tomorrow. Combined with a shoulder workout, it wore me out

Used the angle grinder to slowly grind them down, when I got near the frame I'd grind for a few moments then take a hammer and chisel to the warm, thin remained and slowly knock it away, then punched the remnants up into the frame

Need to find some bolts with a 2" space, Black Magic Brakes only had a 1"...so I just bought the nutserts. Checked Auto Zone, they told me to save myself the running around and try Napa, but it's across town, so I'll have to find other stuff I need that way before I bother
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:56 AM   #13
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Got the last 2 off this morning before the rain, and busted most of the rust off the frame with a wire brush drill head. Just have to wait for the replacements to get here in the mail, and hit up Napa for some bolts. Now that I'm under there with the skid plate and exhaust off, I keep finding things I might as well take care of while I have so much free space under there
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Old 07-28-2013, 02:57 PM   #14
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If I could weld, I would have spot welded the nutserts like they came from the factory. Mine aren't tacked down, and there is always that little worry that they will spin the next time I need them off.
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:25 PM   #15
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If I could weld, I would have spot welded the nutserts like they came from the factory. Mine aren't tacked down, and there is always that little worry that they will spin the next time I need them off.
It is pretty much a take your pick sort of deal on the welding. If you weld them and they aren't fully seated against the frame, they will fail sooner. If you don't weld them like the factory didn't do on the last 6 years of the production of the frames, then you are copying that. Take your pick, both have their pitfalls and success rates. Personally, I don't weld them even with the welder sitting 10 feet away.
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:26 PM   #16
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Considering I have neither welding equipment or know how, I probably won't weld
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:23 PM   #17
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Just picked up some bolts at Napa, washers, hardware for the install tool... question being, they don't carry 2-1/2 bolts fully threaded, only 1 1/2 inches is threaded. Is this going to be a problem?
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:45 PM   #18
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I've read the how to on the other forum a few times...still not sure how these things stay in there without spinning...guess I'll find out when I get under there and install

Is the 2" bolt with only 1 1/2" threaded sufficient? Should I be slathering the bolt with anti-seize prior to use?

Sorry for all the questions, just don't want to jack this up. Just had to drop 1400 on repairs to the Cherokee, so play money for the Wrangler restoration is a bit tighter
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:33 PM   #19
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Additionally, how do I know I've achieved proper crush at 80ft lbs using a socket wrench and not an impact wrench?

I have this sneaking suspicion a lot of these questions will make sense when I actually do it, but don't want to have to do it twice
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #20
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I've read the how to on the other forum a few times...still not sure how these things stay in there without spinning...guess I'll find out when I get under there and install

Is the 2" bolt with only 1 1/2" threaded sufficient? Should I be slathering the bolt with anti-seize prior to use?

Sorry for all the questions, just don't want to jack this up. Just had to drop 1400 on repairs to the Cherokee, so play money for the Wrangler restoration is a bit tighter
Well, some of them are serrated but most are smooth. When you put them in the tool actually crushes the back side to an extent creating a shoulder, and it expands a little to tighten in the hole. Be sure you drill the holes to the specified size, if you go to big the nutsert wont seat. You can accomplish the same thing by using a bolt and a couple nuts.
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:46 PM   #21
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Additionally, how do I know I've achieved proper crush at 80ft lbs using a socket wrench and not an impact wrench?

I have this sneaking suspicion a lot of these questions will make sense when I actually do it, but don't want to have to do it twice
Well if you really are concerned with nailing 80ft lbs the only way to be sure would be to put a torque wrench on it after youve tightened them up with a standard ratchet.
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:30 AM   #22
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Well if you really are concerned with nailing 80ft lbs the only way to be sure would be to put a torque wrench on it after youve tightened them up with a standard ratchet.
Thanks

Not really concerned with hitting it unless I need to be. Seems everyone is reiterating 80-80 Ibs
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:46 PM   #23
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Said screw it and bought a torgue wrench. Painted the frame today, nutserts is tomorrow's project once it's fully dry
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:13 PM   #24
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Got them in today. Not nearly as bad/difficult as a lot of people make it out to be. Though I used a few different tools. Definitely much easier to understand once you get under there and do it.

Clamped the wrench to the frame with a 6" c-clamp, applied some red loctite to the nutserts, and used a 2 foot breaker bar to set the nutserts. Then used the torque wrench to do the rest. Thing is, with the breaker bar, at least half of them were good to go and needed no additional torquing.

Now just have to put in the new exhaust tomorrow morning and bolt the skid back on.

Thanks for the help, gents.

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