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Old 09-19-2010, 08:46 AM   #1
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Orange Park, Florida
Posts: 50
Removing the Stick Shift

Hey Kids:

I have a 99 4-banger with the AX-5 tranny. The drain plug is stripped out.

Haynes manual details a procedure for removing the stick shift which involves unbolting the transmission mounts and lowering the tranny on a jack.

It also says in subsequent procedures to remove the stick from inside the cab but does not detail how.

Is there any way to remove the stick shift from inside the cab, so I can use the port to fill the tranny?

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Old 09-19-2010, 12:33 PM   #2
Atthehop's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NW, NJ
Posts: 3,941
Shifter Removal

Here is what is in the 1999 FSM.

Retired my 94 YJ 4cyl 5spd @ 200K
Now in a 04 TJ 4cyl 5spd CV @120K+
Both as a commuter vehicle in NW, NJ
April 2012.downsized and now a 99er.
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Old 09-19-2010, 01:17 PM   #3
jskinn27's Avatar
Join Date: May 2010
Location: albuquerque, NM
Posts: 563
i believe youll have to have 2 people to get it out. one needs to push down on this ring, the other needs to turn the ring till it pops out. took my dad and i 5 mins. but ive heard it taking people a few hours
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Old 09-19-2010, 02:30 PM   #4
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Location: LAS VEGAS
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I replaced my fluid a year ago, you dont need to do anything with the stick shift. remove the bolt for the slider under the tranny and lower it down. use a manual pump to fill the tranny up.
I used a motorcycle jack to place under the slider to lower it down
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:47 PM   #5
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Orange Park, Florida
Posts: 50

Looks like it's a jack up job....okay, so be it. The filler plug at the side of the tranny is stripped out so I wanted to fill the oil in thru the shifter port. Dropping the skid plate and lowering the tranny is something I have the tools to do, while removing a buggered plug that doesn't leak is not. Was hoping to find a shortcut way to get to the shift lever ........ the Haynes manual hints that it can be removed from inside the cab but only gives directions for removing it by the jack and retainer release method.

Of course I could take it to a shop and have them remove and replace the plug. But if they have to drill it out then the exhaust pipe has to come out and it will get spendy. Either way the skid plate comes off, so.........
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:40 PM   #6
Knows a couple things...

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Jerry Bransford's Avatar
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Location: Escondido, Calif.
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If it's like the AX-15 at the shifter, and it probably is, the shifter is held in by a spring-loaded push-down then a quarter-turn-to-the-left to release retainer. I released mine using a "Vulcan Death-Grip" (think Dr. Spock on Star Wars) after wrapping my arms up around the transmission from the bottom. Clean the retainer off with Simple Green or similar so it won't be oily which makes turning it after pushing down against the spring nearly impossible.
When you have a choice, buy American.

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Old 09-19-2010, 09:59 PM   #7
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Orange Park, Florida
Posts: 50
It is possible.....

....I think to remove the shifter w/o dropping the tranny. First I removed the shift boot, breaking the plastic retaining ring in the process (it's all good, drilled a few holes and put a few slits in the boot, and secured it with cable ties when done).

Next, out came the console, two screws to hold it in. The shift boot had to be worked back thru the console port and the transfer case lever had to be lifted. The airbag switch could be pulled off with three screws and the console seperated if you wish.

Next I removed the sheet metal screws around the plate that holds the inner boot around the stickshift, and loosened the screws holding the plate around the transfer case lever. Only removing ONE of these screws is necessary I think. The heavier plate around the transfer case lever captures the stickshift plate on the left side of the tranny hump.

Once this was done I worked the stickshift plate out to the right and up and was staring at the retaining ring.

Took about 30 minutes to get it out the first time and 30 to put it back together, including the cable ties to hold the boot in place. Test drove fine.

Tomorrow I will pull it apart again, pull the stickshift, drain the fluid, replace with RP gear oil 75W-90, and put it back together. Will let you know how it goes.
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:07 AM   #8
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Location: Pondwater Colorado
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Have you considered using a hammer and chisel to drive (unscrew) the old fill plug and replace it?

Curiosity was framed, poor judgment killed the cat
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Old 09-20-2010, 10:08 PM   #9
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Orange Park, Florida
Posts: 50
Got Er Dun....

No problemo. Removed console and steel cover per post above, then rotated locking collar 1/4 turn and out came the stickshift. Hit a snag when I realized the drain plug was either 29/32 or 23mm - just try to find those sizes - but a 15/16 with some steel wool stuffed in it did fine. Drained it, cleaned plug - no shavings were large enough to be individually identifiable, all very small and not that many - put plug in, filled thru stickshift port 3.25 quarts Royal Purple 75W-90, put everything back together, and away she went. Tested all gears OK.

Noticeable difference in smoothness and tranny sound. Wasn't bad before but tranny was a few ounces low judging from what drained out.

Much easier than following Haynes manual, no jack required and sooooo easy to remove and replace the collar from the cab.

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