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Old 11-01-2010, 06:27 PM   #1
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Replace control arms and track bar

2005 TJ Rocky Mountain Edition.
Bone stock other than a Rancho steering damper.

I am experiencing a bit of looseness over bumps with my TJ and I am not screwing around with replacing this and that to chase the problem. No death wobble just bump steer and a little rattling from the front. The steering components are tight and the steering box is right where it should be.

I can get all four control arms (upper and lower) and the track bar from Quadratec for about $200. I have done extensive reading on bump steer and death wobble and I believe that control arm bushings or the track bar bushings are the culprit. For $200 I figure I would stomp the problem and save me from pressing the bushings in and out.

Can anyone tell me anything special about replacing these components? Is it as easy as remove and replace? Or are there special procedures? Will the axle move around on me or spring out of alignment so holes won't line up after removal of the old component? Shoud I jack and stand the axle or jack from the frame? Does anyone have a write up for this?

Scott

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2005 TJ Rocky Mountain Edition: GE Nighthawk Sport Headlamps, Additonal lights mounted rearward for reverse, Rancho steering damper, KC lights converted to LED.

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Old 11-02-2010, 08:19 AM   #2
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Anyone????

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Old 11-02-2010, 08:33 AM   #3
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if you don't remove the springs in front, you need to do the control arms one at a time. the springs are offset on the housing, so if you attempt to remove all the CA's at once, you'll have a big mess on your hands.

check NAPA for the track bar...my friend replaced his stock track bar for ~$50 with a NAPA. You can price match them from Autozone, Checker, etc or whoever is cheapest.
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:56 AM   #4
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Hey thanks. Thats what I was looking for. So do I jack at all? Or leave it on the ground? People are telling me that replacing the track bar is a real bear. By looking at it I don't see why but this is the type of input I am looking for. I will check around local parts store for the trackbar. I was figuring that since I was already ordering the parts at Quadratec I would just include the track bar. Like I said the parts come with the bushings installed so it sounds like a real time saver. Does anyone know if it is worth replacing just the bushings with silicone or urethane bushings?
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2005 TJ Rocky Mountain Edition: GE Nighthawk Sport Headlamps, Additonal lights mounted rearward for reverse, Rancho steering damper, KC lights converted to LED.

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Old 11-02-2010, 02:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky Mountian Red View Post
Hey thanks. Thats what I was looking for. So do I jack at all? Or leave it on the ground? People are telling me that replacing the track bar is a real bear. By looking at it I don't see why but this is the type of input I am looking for. I will check around local parts store for the trackbar. I was figuring that since I was already ordering the parts at Quadratec I would just include the track bar. Like I said the parts come with the bushings installed so it sounds like a real time saver. Does anyone know if it is worth replacing just the bushings with silicone or urethane bushings?
Quadratec sucks monkey balls. don't buy from them unless you absolutely have to.

you can jack the jeep up if you want. supporting the axle and setting the parking brake will help keep things from moving once you pull a lower. you may need a ratchet strap and/or to jack up the axle housing to get the bolt holes to line up again.

replacing the track bar is very easy if you use the right tools. do that on the ground, at right height. if you don't, and you don't use the right tools, yes its a PITA.

NEVER replace Clevite bushings on the control arms with poly or urethane bushings. you will rip the control arm mounts off due to those being too stiff.
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Old 11-02-2010, 03:57 PM   #6
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Ok. Does anyone have any other suggestions for ordering stock replacement parts? I have no lift so stock replacements only. I tried my local bond and NAPA stores and they are way more expensive.

How about this.....Does anyone know how to diagnose the front end? If I grab the parts in question and reef on them as hard as I can, I get no movement or looseness. But I have read on here that even at no movement one of those parts could still be bad. Does anyone have a procedure on diagnose and replace??
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Old 11-02-2010, 04:17 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Rocky Mountian Red View Post
How about this.....Does anyone know how to diagnose the front end? If I grab the parts in question and reef on them as hard as I can, I get no movement or looseness. But I have read on here that even at no movement one of those parts could still be bad. Does anyone have a procedure on diagnose and replace??
start narrowing stuff down. ball joints, unit bearings, etc. how many miles you got on the Jeep?
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Old 11-02-2010, 04:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky Mountian Red View Post
Ok. Does anyone have any other suggestions for ordering stock replacement parts? I have no lift so stock replacements only. I tried my local bond and NAPA stores and they are way more expensive.

How about this.....Does anyone know how to diagnose the front end? If I grab the parts in question and reef on them as hard as I can, I get no movement or looseness. But I have read on here that even at no movement one of those parts could still be bad. Does anyone have a procedure on diagnose and replace??
This is the best place I've found for Stock parts: Rock Auto
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:19 PM   #9
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Okay I got it. Rock auto. Why does Quadratec suck monkey balls? Any other places?

I put Red on a lift with my buddy and we looked at ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm and linkage and all connections to steering. Even the steering box is right where it should be. We even looked at the steering shaft all the way from the firewall down. Red has 52,000 miles. She is well maintained and a strong runner except for the steering wheel shake over bumps. Which is magnified when in 4 LOW. As I said we reefed on all the components and I don't notice any looseness. But as I also said it has been said on this forum that even if by hand you feel no looseness this might not count. Any diagnosis procedures?
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Old 11-02-2010, 07:00 PM   #10
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i got rid of my "bump steer" issue when i replaced my tie rod and end links with the currie correctlync set up. im not convinced replacing the control arms will solve your problem.
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Old 11-11-2010, 02:44 PM   #11
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Anyone have diagnosis procedures?

And when replacing components should I jack from the frame or the axle or not at all and leave it on the ground?

Can someone tell me how to properly inspect the control arm bushings and the track bar?
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:31 PM   #12
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I've found that the best way to buy after market parts is as follows: Decide on the manufacturer that you want, get the part number, enter it into Google or such, and start searching for the best price including shipping. I've saved a bunch of bucks doing it this way.

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