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Old 08-18-2013, 11:59 AM   #1
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replacing rear pinion yoke question..

My pinion yoke busted on my d35 and I am planning on taking the pinion yoke off my old D35 and replacing the broken one. All seals and bearings are fine. Will anything be affected by removing the old and sliding the new one on? I plan on taking the pinion nuts off with an impact and figured I would torque down to around 160 ft lbs. Anything I need to know or be worried about? I don't usually mess with my rear end but it sounds pretty str8 forward and easy. Replaced clutch last weekend, get to replace pinion yoke this!!! Yeah

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Old 08-18-2013, 12:05 PM   #2
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That will work fine, a torque value of 160-180 ft-lbs. works well. Be sure to use Locktite on the threads.

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Old 08-18-2013, 12:07 PM   #3
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I was also planning on counting threads on current setup, u think that's necessary? I'm a little ocd and don't want any issues
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:11 PM   #4
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The new yoke may fit differently, I wouldn't trust the thread count as much as I would a torque wrench.
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:12 PM   #5
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I personally am not comfortable with that method. Having done gears before and having messed with crush sleeves, the difference between perfect preload and way to much preload is incredibly small. Seems like most people get away with it fine, but it's going to suck when you're that one person that doesn't get it right and trashes a set of gears.

Proper way is to pull the carrier and pinion, replace crush sleeve, and reset preload to ~12 in/lb for used bearings.
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:21 PM   #6
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In my strongest possible personal opinion, advising someone they need to pull the carrier, pull the pinion gear, replace the outer pinion bearing, and replace & set a new crush sleeve, etc. simply to replace the yoke has a serious case of overall inexperience in the real world. I suspect you have never done either job and have only read about it. Not to mention the neither the carrier nor pinion gear needs to be pulled to replace the crush sleeve & outer bearing which confirms to me that you personally have never actually done it
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:41 PM   #7
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Thanks Jerry, was a ten minute job. Impact made quick work of getting off and I torqued to 160. The best part of the job, it was free!!!
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:52 PM   #8
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Great info guys! I had my rear drive shaft out last weekend to do u joints, and really wanted to do my pinion seal, but I was a little intimidated by getting that yoke torqued back on correctly. Might give it a shot!
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
In my strongest possible personal opinion, advising someone they need to pull the carrier, pull the pinion gear, replace the outer pinion bearing, and replace & set a new crush sleeve, etc. simply to replace the yoke has a serious case of overall inexperience in the real world. I suspect you have never done either job and have only read about it. Not to mention the neither the carrier nor pinion gear needs to be pulled to replace the crush sleeve & outer bearing which confirms to me that you personally have never actually done it
You're right, I've never replace JUST a yoke, or JUST a pinion seal. But I have actually done full gear installs. So basically I have. If you can remove the outer pinion bearing without knocking the pinion out you are a wizard. Plus how are you going to check preload with the carrier in? Not a very reliable way of doing it.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:12 PM   #10
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Here's one writeup on how to do it.... how to remove a crush sleeve??

I still won't go along with all that being necessary to simply replace the yoke. Not many experienced wrenchers would advise it either. Give Tom Wood a call sometime & see if he agrees with you on all that being necessary to simply replace the yoke. He was the first drivetrain expert to advise me many years ago that you don't need to go through all that just for a simple yoke replacment. Been doing it that way ever since without an issue.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:21 PM   #11
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I assume you would be referring to #11.

Quote:
Remove front pinion bearing with a pair of
pick tools to pull the bearing off the pinion gear
shaft. If the bearing becomes bound on the shaft,
lightly tap the end of the pinion gear with a rawhide/
rubber hammer.
It would seriously be quicker to pull the carrier. The press fit of the outer bearing is pretty tight. With the pinion nut seated flush with the end of the pinion, it takes a couple hard whacks with a 64 oz deadblow to pop the pinion out.

The thought of trying to pull that outer bearing with pick tools makes me cringe.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:30 PM   #12
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I just find it funny that people freak out over gears in general and first response is to pay someone to do it, which I fully understand. But it's that way because with gears "good enough" isn't good enough for long term reliability. Apparently though when it comes to replacing a yoke or pinion seal, guessing on the pinion preload is "good enough" now. I mean at the very least check rotating torque of the full assembly (pinion and carrier) before and after.

Pinion preload is IMO the most critical measurement when setting up gears. Gears with a not so great pattern or out of spec backlash will probably last quite a while, especially on the street. But how long do you think bearings will last with to much or to little preload? The answer is probably a lot less than 50 miles.
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:49 PM   #13
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My torque wrench only went to 100ft lbs. It was funny when I went into O'Reilly to borrow theirs and told them I was going to remove pinion nut and replace right there. They all came out to watch as I got my electric impact out and replaced in a few minutes. I took the jeep for a ride and all seems well so far. I just hope it continues

By the way, as Jerry stated, I did not remove anything but the yoke. Once the nut came off, the yoke slid out. No issues, was str8 forward. I don't have any leaks or bearing issues yet, so not an issue

160ft lbs is a lot of torque. It took some umph while holding yoke w pipe wrench to get to 160

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