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Old 08-25-2014, 03:21 PM   #1
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Rough country 2.5 inch lift instal?

So I have got the money to buy the 2.5 adjustable track bar and maybe sway bar disconnects, my concern is how hard is it to instal I may do it at home as a project or I might take it to the garage at my high school ( auto mechanics class ) and instal it ther since my cousin is the teacher, also how long will it take to do that? And also what is the price range if I take it to a mechanic?

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Old 08-25-2014, 04:04 PM   #2
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Do yourself a favor and don't buy a rough country track bar. It's made with a generic z bend that has poor diff clearance at full bump. At 2.5" the best option is stock, or a jks 126 and a v8 zj tie rod. This combo requires. 1" bumpstop extension, or 2" bumpstop extension without the v8 zj tie rod. You may require more bumpstop extension for other clearance concerns so be sure to check all points of clearance with coil springs removed.

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Old 08-25-2014, 05:34 PM   #3
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Do yourself a favor and don't buy a rough country track bar. It's made with a generic z bend that has poor diff clearance at full bump. At 2.5" the best option is stock, or a jks 126 and a v8 zj tie rod. This combo requires. 1" bumpstop extension, or 2" bumpstop extension without the v8 zj tie rod. You may require more bumpstop extension for other clearance concerns so be sure to check all points of clearance with coil springs removed.
The only reason that I had planed on getting the track bar is because someone that had that lift recommended it
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Old 08-25-2014, 06:54 PM   #4
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They don't know what they don't know when it comes to track bars.
113 pages of why anything other than the couple I mentioned are a bad idea. tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - JeepForum.com
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:21 PM   #5
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So is it just totally unnecessary ?
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:28 PM   #6
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At 2.5" it's unnecessary. You can weld a plate over the face of the axle side track bar mount and drill a new hole to center your front axle if it's off enough to bother you. If you really have your heart set on adjustable the jks 126 is the best choice at 2.5". If it where 3" that would than be metalcloak, but the mc bar doesn't adjust short enough for 2.5" of lift.
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:30 PM   #7
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Do you already have the lift?
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:10 PM   #8
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I just installed this lift. I kept the factory bar. I raised the driver side to align the bolt hole. I did upgrade to the 2.2 shocks. I've had no issues.
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:15 PM   #9
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I just installed this lift, it is complete and works well. Had to adjust the steering wheel but that is quite easy on a newer vehicle. On a 10A jeep it is quite tall.
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:13 PM   #10
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Pictures everyone?
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:43 PM   #11
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I just installed this lift, it is complete and works well. Had to adjust the steering wheel but that is quite easy on a newer vehicle. On a 10A jeep it is quite tall.
You should also do a front end alignment. Your toe is going to be to far in now with the lift. You can adjust it using a tape measure, or if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself having a shop do it isn't very expensive.
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Old 08-27-2014, 04:19 AM   #12
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The shocks will leak within 6 monthes

The springs will sag within a year

Just to let you know and hopefully others will see

ROUGH COUNTRY IS JUNK CRAP and PLAIN SUCKS..........

Spend your money better the first time unless all your jeep does is go to the mall.
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Old 08-27-2014, 04:21 AM   #13
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And yes that CRAP is still on my jeep till Christmas

MetalCloak GameChanger here I come
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:40 AM   #14
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The shocks will leak within 6 monthes

The springs will sag within a year

Just to let you know and hopefully others will see

ROUGH COUNTRY IS JUNK CRAP and PLAIN SUCKS..........

Spend your money better the first time unless all your jeep does is go to the mall.
All springs settle some. It doesn't matter who's name is on the box. The rc 2.5" spring rates are a very low 115# in the front and just over stock at 144# in the rear. They work well for a light weight rig. I would not want them on anything I planned to add a winch, heavy bumpers, hard top, or armor to.

What are your bumpstops set at? Sounds like you may have been bottoming out the shocks and damaging the seals. They don't include any bumpstop extensions in the kit and many don't know they need to add them after figuring out what their individual need is. IMO they should throw in 2 3"x3" body lift blocks for the front and 2 2"x3" blocks for the rear, so they can be cut to whatever size is needed by the individual.

I just bought the 3.5" mc front springs and track bar. My last setup was an ome 934 160# front spring, ome n66 shocks, with a jks 126 track bar, and v8 zj tie rod. It was a good setup that worked well with a 33" tire, so I stole most of those parts for my xj.
The rear was ome 942 160# springs, jks track bar, and ome n67 shocks. I've been looking at using a moog springs with a 142# rate and a 16.5" free length to give me what I need. The mc rear has a nice long free length, but sacrifices a lot of up travel. They need 3" bumpstop extension so you don't bind the spring. The point of lifting is to gain up travel and those rear springs really don't gain you much over stock. Most 2.5" setups with a bl on a 33" tire will have about 5.5" up travel. Those rear 3.5" mc springs will give you 4.5" up travel at best. Just beware of this fact when you make your next lift choice.

If I where looking to buy a complete bolt on lift in that price range the savvy 4" would be it over the mc 3.5". Buying a lift in pieces on the other hand would be and is a different story.
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:20 PM   #15
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I used my stock springs and shocks because I like them. The kit has brake line extensions, shock extensions, and rear track bar extensions. My opinion on lifts is a 2.5 inch spring lift will raise a Wrangler X up 2.5 inches. Where the same spring lift will not raise the 10A Wrangler much because it is already an inch taller than other Rubicons that are taller than an X.
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:20 PM   #16
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I don't want to go over 2.5 inches
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:34 PM   #17
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As stated above if your planning on going with very heavy bumpers, you will probably want to look elsewhere for springs, but another simple solution is you can always add spring spacers to accommodate for heavy accessories. A new trackbar is not necessary at said height. Skip the RC shocks and try either BDS 5500 or Zone Offroad shocks.
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:18 PM   #18
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As stated above if your planning on going with very heavy bumpers, you will probably want to look elsewhere for springs, but another simple solution is you can always add spring spacers to accommodate for heavy accessories. A new trackbar is not necessary at said height. Skip the RC shocks and try either BDS 5500 or Zone Offroad shocks.
I don't plan on a winch or a heavy bumper I might get a smittybilt stinger bumper but nothing real heavy
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:11 PM   #19
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You should be more than fine then with RC springs. Springs are all going to settle even Currie springs have had a few issues when loaded. Just do some research on the shocks that you get to be sure you get the correct collapsed and extended length and if required use correct size bumpstops to keep from destroying the shocks.

You can always build off of a small lift, arms, trackbars, etc. can always be added later down the road if you want.
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:32 PM   #20
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You should be more than fine then with RC springs. Springs are all going to settle even Currie springs have had a few issues when loaded. Just do some research on the shocks that you get to be sure you get the correct collapsed and extended length and if required use correct size bumpstops to keep from destroying the shocks.

You can always build off of a small lift, arms, trackbars, etc. can always be added later down the road if you want.
What kind of bumpstops should I get for a 2.5?
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:54 PM   #21
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I'm getting ready to put the RC 2.5 Coils on my rig over the long weekend, but I went with Bilstein 5100's instead of the shocks RC offers.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:28 PM   #22
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For the rear you will want a shock with a compressed length around 13" and 21-22.5" extended length with a 1.5-2" bumpstop. Fronts you will want around a 13 " collapsed 23" extended length and 1.5-2" bumpstop. You always have the option of getting adjustable bumpstops as every jeep can be a little different. Use this as a starting point not as exact numbers.
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:35 AM   #23
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Truthfully no one can answer how much bumpstop extension you will need. You need to cycle the suspension without springs to find the first point of contact. If you use the stock track bar with a stock diff cover there will be no clearance issue there. You also need to calculate spring bind height and be sure you have enough bumpstop to keep them from over compressing, or they well fatigue and sag. Very easy to do this by counting the winds and multiplying by the bar diameter. The rear has two pig tails so you subtract 1 turn.
You only have a 31" tire so you may not need any or very little in the front. Front shocks can be 13.25" collapsed without need for additional bumpstop extension. Rear can be 12.25" collapsed without need for bumpstop extension. If you have aftermarket wheels you may need additional bumpstop extension. Even a rear track bar relocation bracket can require bumpstop extension.

It takes a bit of time to set bumpstop heights correctly, but it's worth the work to do it right and not destroy something because you didn't want to take a little more time.
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:41 AM   #24
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Truthfully no one can answer how much bumpstop extension you will need. You need to cycle the suspension without springs to find the first point of contact. If you use the stock track bar with a stock diff cover there will be no clearance issue there. You also need to calculate spring bind height and be sure you have enough bumpstop to keep them from over compressing, or they well fatigue and sag. Very easy to do this by counting the winds and multiplying by the bar diameter. The rear has two pig tails so you subtract 1 turn.
You only have a 31" tire so you may not need any or very little in the front. Front shocks can be 13.25" collapsed without need for additional bumpstop extension. Rear can be 12.25" collapsed without need for bumpstop extension. If you have aftermarket wheels you may need additional bumpstop extension. Even a rear track bar relocation bracket can require bumpstop extension.

It takes a bit of time to set bumpstop heights correctly, but it's worth the work to do it right and not destroy something because you didn't want to take a little more time.
I have after market wheels but they are 15x8 the only difference in them and stock is the backspacing
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:57 AM   #25
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The shocks will leak within 6 monthes

The springs will sag within a year

Just to let you know and hopefully others will see

ROUGH COUNTRY IS JUNK CRAP and PLAIN SUCKS..........

Spend your money better the first time unless all your jeep does is go to the mall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelTurtle View Post
And yes that CRAP is still on my jeep till Christmas

MetalCloak GameChanger here I come

Perhaps it's how you treat your Jeep that makes this happen, I've run RC for years and I wheel hard, no sag and the only time I have shocks leak is when I don't wheel enough (it's not a DD) or when a shock bottoms out. A badly installed product or badly used product doesn't equal a bad product. I'll look forward to seeing how long it takes you to blow the seals out of the 6-packs
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:13 AM   #26
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If you were closer I'd say bring it to the house once you get the lift and I'd help install but you're like 4 hours away. LOL.
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:19 PM   #27
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My RC 2.5 lift lasted 6 years. Daily driver. When I think about it though, it only really started to sag in the front after some of the more tougher trails.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:35 AM   #28
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Perhaps it's how you treat your Jeep that makes this happen, I've run RC for years and I wheel hard, no sag and the only time I have shocks leak is when I don't wheel enough (it's not a DD) or when a shock bottoms out. A badly installed product or badly used product doesn't equal a bad product. I'll look forward to seeing how long it takes you to blow the seals out of the 6-packs
Your definition of hard and mine must be too different things...........but most people.don't have the chance to take their jeep places like we do in Colorado
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:40 AM   #29
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Perhaps it's how you treat your Jeep that makes this happen, I've run RC for years and I wheel hard, no sag and the only time I have shocks leak is when I don't wheel enough (it's not a DD) or when a shock bottoms out. A badly installed product or badly used product doesn't equal a bad product. I'll look forward to seeing how long it takes you to blow the seals out of the 6-packs
Oh and considering I am an ASE Certified auto tech for a living and know how to properly bumpstop, I doubt it's user error......
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:45 AM   #30
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Rough Country contacted my about my lift kit, explained that they have had issues with the shocks, and sent me the latest version of the 2.5 kit under warranty.

I will be doing a writeup about the reinstall with tons of pics and comparisons of parts. I will also be taking height measurements before and after.

This with updates every month for the next year should give an idea if the kit I originally got was just a bad batch........

The one thing I have to say is their customer service is awesome beyond belief. I have never had a company go.so far out of their way to make me the customer happy. So Thanks Rough Country

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