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Old 06-22-2010, 11:16 PM   #1
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Rubbing the sway bar...

I spent all of my lunch writing up a full story complete with pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one. Wouldn't ya know it, I hit the wrong key and it all went *poof*. Damn. Take 2.

I recently installed a set of 33 10.5/15 BFG KM2's on my TJ using the stock Canyon rims. With my OME 2.5 lift and a 1.25 JKS lift and 1" MM lift, things have been working rather well. I have noticed a slight rubbing at full lock if I'm a tad aggressive. Nothing major tho.

This weekend 03 RUBI and I went out to Hollister Hills to check out my new tires. We disconnected at the bottom (JKS Discos) and rode on up to the first obstacle course without issues. On the obstacle course, I heard a rub but thought nothing of it.

We decided to head over to the new obstacle course to play there a bit. Turned out to be closed, so we whipped a U turn and headed down some trails. On the U turn, I heard a hard core rub that was bad enough for me to stop and actually look to see if anything was damaged. Turns out the tire had hit the JKS disco storage pin and popped the retaining pin. Damn. So we reconnect my rig and use a temporary pin to keep things together. All went well the rest of the day.

Yesterday I moved the Disco storage pins out of harms way and decided to see what other rubbing issues I might have. So I backed up onto a steel ramp with the driver rear, and jacked up the passenger front to full compression. Turned the wheels and took a peak at what might be hitting next. Sure enough, I found something.

At full articulation, the tire is hitting my sway bar


Adding a washer or two isn't going to fix this one either


On the bright side, at least I'm not hitting the lower control arms.


This only seems to be a problem under articulation, and as a daily driver on the street I've had very little rubbing, except when pulling out of a driveway a bit quick at full steering lock.

Not sure how I'm going to fix this one, or if I will. Since the bar's round, it shouldn't hurt the tire any. Running on the street without a sway bar is not an option for me.

Anyway, the KM2's are sweet tires so far, they seem to grip well on the dirt, and grip well on the street too. We did have a fun day out at Hollister Hills. I even managed to goad a Land Rover into the mud pit I did promise to pull him out, and I did keep true to my word. I also pulled a custom rail jobber out of the same mud pit about an hour later!


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Old 06-22-2010, 11:18 PM   #2
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Add spacers? Even with the tire rubbing the bar its not as damaging as he control arm bu it still will hurt the tire over extended time

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Old 06-22-2010, 11:51 PM   #3
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Im thinking the only way you can fix it would be with spacers like Vaultzz suggested or new wheels with more backspacing
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:42 AM   #4
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Looks like I'll hit my fender flair if I put a 4-4.5 offselt rim on there. As it is, at full tilt, the tire's only 1/2" away from the fender or less. I'd take rubbing the sway bar over tearing up my fenders any day. I'm wondering if the Currie rock bar would be a better fit, closer to the frame and all.
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Old 06-23-2010, 05:10 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Cons_Table View Post
...or new wheels with more backspacing
??? You'd need less backspacing, not more.
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:28 AM   #6
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Does the tire contact the sway bar the same on both sides? If not then you need to adj the axle.
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:34 AM   #7
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Does the tire contact the sway bar the same on both sides? If not then you need to adj the axle.
I'll have to check that one out this evening, but I do believe my axel is centered properly, the wheels sit in the wheel wells the same.
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:13 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Ray - San Jose View Post
Looks like I'll hit my fender flair if I put a 4-4.5 offselt rim on there. As it is, at full tilt, the tire's only 1/2" away from the fender or less. I'd take rubbing the sway bar over tearing up my fenders any day. I'm wondering if the Currie rock bar would be a better fit, closer to the frame and all.
Flares are cheaper than tires..... And trimming them will help keep you out of them.
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:20 AM   #9
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Ray - there are several things you can do about this. I'm sure there are other options, but here's the three I came up with.

1. wheel spacers - which as you've stated may cause a need for different fenders (MCE plastic fenders would be sweet.) I chose spacers over wheels b/c I like the Canyons...

2. Currie Antirock - which I believe will fix the issue at hand, but I'm not 100% on that.

3.Nothing at all...
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:26 AM   #10
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The sway bar can move sideways - it floats - see if it's the same on both sides. If not, slide it back to the center. Then you can keep it centered by putting hose clamps around the sway bar right next to the mounting bushings.

If the axle is not centered, till you center it, you can slide the sway bar so it's equal clearance to the tires, then clamp it.
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:51 AM   #11
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That's odd that with the amount of lift you are running you rub, mine hit the bar when I had my 285's with no lift but with 3.5 inches it stopped, but now it rubs the lca on the pass side a little because the axle shifted...
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:10 PM   #12
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I've considered the Currie Antirock, a bit pricey for me at the moment tho. Possibly in the future.

Good read on the sway bar being off center. It's shifted 3/4" twards the passenger side. I'll pick up a set of split collars to correct that one.

Extra lift might just be a thought too since my front's down a bit lower than I'd like anyway, so maybe 3/4" pucks would give enough extra room.
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
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??? You'd need less backspacing, not more.
Sorry this is what I was meaning...Im not quite sure why I put more thanks Hyperbuzzin
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:48 AM   #14
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I checked my sway bar location this evening, and kicked it over to center. I disconnected the sway bar and sure enough, I'm STILL hitting on full articulation. I even kicked it over as far as it would go and still was hitting. However, with the sway bars connected, I do not hit the sway bar at all. I'm not rock crawling, so I can live with leaving the sway bars connected off-road for now. On the street, the sway bar is connected, and any rubbing is not noticeable anyway.
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:20 PM   #15
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Ok, after thinking this over, I jacked her back up and decided to see how much I'd have to add to the steering stops to get enough clearance for a Currie. Currently there's about .250" of clearance between the frame and the tire itself. This is the only place that the tire is near to hitting at full tilt.



To get around 1-1.5" of clearance would take approximately .250" of added steering stop. Can't tell for sure since my calipers decided today was a good day to break. But it looks like 2-3 washers and a Currie would work. Defiantly cheaper than all the rework I'd have to do otherwise. Guess I'll go buy some washers and see if I can make an inch of space, can't hurt to try anyway.
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:43 PM   #16
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It looks like you will need spacers or new rims. If you go the spacer route make sure they are legal in your state and go with high quality ones like Spdertrax. Some of the cheap knock offs cause wobbles that cannot be eliminated. And remember less backspacing.
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Old 06-26-2010, 04:28 PM   #17
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Looks like I may be off the hook. FguyTJ took some measurements and came up with 3/4" of clearance needed for the Currie. With 2 washers under the stops (approx .200 thick total), I've got exactly 1" of clearance between the tire and the frame at full twist. If need be, I can add 1 more washer and that would give about 1 1/4" of clearance.



Looks like I'm saving pennies for a Currie.
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Old 06-26-2010, 04:39 PM   #18
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Ya I agree with doc you need some spacers or new rims that should not be that close !!!
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:14 AM   #19
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Also, keep in mind, when you twist the axle up, the arm on the antirock is going to pivot up the same as the axle, so technically, the sway bar is in the same general location in regards to the tire in the full swing of travel. Basically, when you get the tire stuffed, the arm isn't next to the frame, but stuffed up next to the inner fender. If I can find something to flex my junk out on, I'll snap a picture.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:12 PM   #20
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Thanks, my Currie came in last night, and I installed it. I haven't achieved the results that I thought it would. Even tho the arm itself is closer to the frame, the sway bar link sticks out an additional 1 1/4" making that the impact point on the tire now. I think I'm in worse shape than I was before the Currie.

It looks like my next step is a set of wheel spacers. On the bright side, I do have a set of Rubi flares already that are 1" wider than the flares that are on the Jeep now. I might not have a flare issue with those.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:30 PM   #21
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Thanks, my Currie came in last night, and I installed it. I haven't achieved the results that I thought it would. Even tho the arm itself is closer to the frame, the sway bar link sticks out an additional 1 1/4" making that the impact point on the tire now. I think I'm in worse shape than I was before the Currie.

It looks like my next step is a set of wheel spacers. On the bright side, I do have a set of Rubi flares already that are 1" wider than the flares that are on the Jeep now. I might not have a flare issue with those.
Dang those extra variables.

hopefully that'll get you taken care of.

Good luck
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:22 PM   #22
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Just ordered a set of spacers, we will see how those work. I don't want to loose the canyon rims.

2 92807+001 SPIDERTRAX WHEEL SPACERS 5X4.5 INCH-PR WHS-002
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:23 PM   #23
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Just ordered a set of spacers, we will see how those work. I don't want to loose the canyon rims.

2 92807+001 SPIDERTRAX WHEEL SPACERS 5X4.5 INCH-PR WHS-002
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:56 AM   #24
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I have a 1.25" BL and 2.5" lift also and mine rubs the sway all the time as well. Pretty annoying but oh well. My wheels are 3.25" BS also, so pretty far out already...
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:15 AM   #25
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if you have been doing this measuring on flat ground and not flexed... wait till you flex with your tire turned to full lock. It will rub big time. The spacers will help you out a bit, but I'm not sure how much when flexed out and turning.
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:12 PM   #26
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if you have been doing this measuring on flat ground and not flexed... wait till you flex with your tire turned to full lock. It will rub big time. The spacers will help you out a bit, but I'm not sure how much when flexed out and turning.
All of my measurements were taken at full flex. I backed up a steel ramp with the driver rear, and jacked the passenger front up with a floor jack until I hit the bump stops, and then a bit more. High enough that I can easily turn the wheels by hand, so should be max articulation.

With the Jeep on flat ground and the sway bar attached, I don't rub at all.

With the Jeep on flat ground and the Currie Antirock, I haven't rubbed at all yet either.
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Old 07-09-2010, 12:35 AM   #27
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I can't believe this went all the way to page 13 lol

Update

My Spidertrax spacers came in today, and they are installed. Defiantly a nice bit of work there. A quick articulation check later, and it looks like I have about 1/2" clearance now with 2 washers under the steering stops. I still need to re thread the Currie links, they are still set a bit longer than I'd like them to be. Shortening the links may bring the links down enough that I can remove a washer (or maybe both of them) from the steering stops as well.

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