That's another area I'm worried about, but I can't get to it as the bolts are all stuck. If they're both bad soon, I feel like I'll be approaching the cost of a frame swap.
I'm hoping it's just the rear trailing arms. The problem is a lot of the suspension components back there are also rusted to hell. It's going to be a complete pain to remove everything for capping.
Well if you take it to someone that has experience with the safe t caps then they expect the rust. I was fortunate to be only an hour away from the Auto Rust Co. So they knew of a shop close by that they check out and trained them on how to properly install them. I was told that they have done over 30 jeeps. Doing the work definitely stiffened up the frame. The ride feels more solid, more rigid. I love it
I took it to auto rust because that is their specialty, this is what they do. They make sure it is right and even ended up replacing some parts that were damaged by the sandblasting that they didn't charge for. They did a phenomenal job and I would go (or recommend) someone to go there in a heartbeat. If you go there ask for Miguel. He is informative, low key and doesn't try to up sell anything.
Forgot to put in how much it was. They did both rear trailing arms and if I remember right it was 1000 for all the labor which included sandblasting and undercoating. I think they said it would be 1200-1400 for the trailing arms and skid plate section.
It was Miguel that recommended Moore Automotive in Marstons Mills on Cape Cod to me. AutoRust had trained them on how to properly install their product on vehicles. Moore Automotive says they have done close to 30 Jeeps so far. You've seen the pics of the finished product on my Jeep, couldn't be happier.
This is on my list of things to do in the near future. I need to drop the skid plate to get a better idea of how bad the rust actually is. Once people repair their frame (if it's to that point), or at least whenever they clean it out and spray it with internal frame coating or the like, why not just plug all the holes in the frame with some caps to keep moisture out?
Bad idea! It is my understanding some of the holes are designed to be drains. If you look closely the new Safe-T-Caps actually add a hole at the bottom of the rear trailing arm side because there is not one there from the factory. Water can get in holes that are up higher but no where to drain. This is the cause of a lot of the rust problems in the same exact spot on a lot of TJs. The Safe-T-Cap solves this.
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