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Old 07-11-2011, 07:31 PM
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Seized control arm bolt...need advice please

The bolt circled in the pick is seized/rusted to the bushing sleeve. Is there a trick to get this thing out without having to cut it? A new one is $20 and I'd have to order it from the dealer...just trying to avoid paying $20 freakin bucks for 1 bolt and then having to wait for its arrival. Thanks
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:33 PM   #2
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I'm assuming you have new LCAs, take on the the local hardware store look threw the grade 8 section find one that works well then cut the old one out

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Old 07-11-2011, 07:37 PM   #3
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PB Blaster, wait, some more PBB, wait, add heat from a torch bang with hammer. If that doesn't work, drink a beer and repeat.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:52 PM
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Haha...I did the beer, PB, wait, then big hammer thing all night last night. Guess I'll have to cut. Its not a normal, round bolt and washer. One side of the bolt and the hole in the washer is flat which is how the camber/caster angle? is adjusted I guess. Anyone know if a regular bolt will do the job or will that put me out of alignment? I'm putting a stock control arm back in when I finally get this one off. Other side took a whole 10 minutes.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:59 PM   #5
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With suspension parts, sometimes you have to lift the axle up to where the stress is removed. Have you tried that? Lift the axle with a spare jack and try every 1/2 inch or so. Then if that doesn't work, have someone step on the axle at different levels while you hammer away. I like deadblow hammers more for this type of work. They work better and are easier on the threads of the bolt.
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:00 PM   #6
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... one more thing... the person helping push/pull the axle can hold your beer while you work.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:44 PM   #7
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Go to a local you wrench it yard and pull the lower control arm cam bolt off a xj front end. It is basically a pocket piece and will cost you about twenty minutes rather then twenty bucks.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:52 PM   #8
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The grade 8 hardware is just as good and can be picked up for 3 bucks at home depot or lowes. I have had the same problem on the exact same bolt actually. It's not a matter of stress on the bolt, its just in there and would not come out. I was able to get it out with a powerful impact wrench and pressure on the other side of the boltbut if thats not an option or not working, cut and replace.
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Old 07-11-2011, 09:57 PM   #9
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I'm thinking that it's being held in there from pressure and not being seized. So if he were to get the bolt out he may not be able to get another one in. Of course with the bolt out, he'll be able to see how to line up the holes. I've heard of people using tow straps to pull on axles to get the stuff to line up right. I guess I lucked out on mine and was able to get by with a jack.
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:03 PM   #10
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Will it not turn? or is it turning in the hole or what? Guess I missed that. Large wrench plus big pipe. super breaker bar.
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:23 PM   #11
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Seized Control Arm Bolt

I had one that was so frozen even after I cut it out I could not pound it out of the bushing. I was putting a new control arm in so it was OK. I also damaged a already damaged control arm bracket when I was cutting the bolt so I had to weld new Blue torch fab works brackets onto the axle. Much better than the stock brackets.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:29 AM   #12
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Have you tried to remove the bolt on the other end? That may help.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:54 AM   #13
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I usually just cuss and throw stuff. That doesn't seem to work well. What it does do is cause my neighbor to come by then we sit back and enjoy a cold one.

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Old 07-12-2011, 08:25 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99TJCrawler View Post
The grade 8 hardware is just as good and can be picked up for 3 bucks at home depot or lowes. I have had the same problem on the exact same bolt actually. It's not a matter of stress on the bolt, its just in there and would not come out. I was able to get it out with a powerful impact wrench and pressure on the other side of the boltbut if thats not an option or not working, cut and replace.
The lca bolt is a cam bolt for front end alignment, not a standard bolt!
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:54 PM   #15
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use a BFH !
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Old 07-12-2011, 07:09 PM   #16
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I have used an air hammer with the correct size pickel fork in it to force its way under the head of the bolt which forces it out enough to get some movement so PB Blaster can start doing its thing
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Old 07-19-2011, 07:33 PM
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4 1/2" angle grinder from harbor freight did the job just fine.

I tried the bfh but nearly f'd up the CA bracket by knocking the bushing sleeve thru it. It was bending the bracket out so I had to get that straightened back out. The bolt was seized to the sleeve inside the bushing. I was able to turn it but it was only turning the rubber inside the bushing. The part that really bothered me though...a new bolt cost me $20 from the dealer...and didn't even come with a new nut and washer! Its fine though, at least I'm back up and running again.

Btw, I WISH I would have had someone's help with moving the axle for me when bolting it back up. I had to push with my feet while trying to thread the bolts through the bushing and CA mounts.
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:17 AM   #18
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I just found a solution to remove rusty control arm bolts. The first one I replaced earlier this year I cut with a saws-all, as that was preferred method. If anyone has ever cut one, you know they are a PAIN and you usually go through at least a couple blades. Last night I was trying to figure it out and was looking on the internet for a better way to get the bolt free, after I fell asleep in my chair in front of my laptop... then it hit me... a u-joint press. rented one today and it took me about 30 minutes, but it came out, mainly because my throw on my 1/2" ratchet was only a 1/4 turn AND it was really stuck.

What you will need:
• Penetrating oil (do this the night before.. I also was told brake fluid works good as well)
• U-Joint/Ball Joint Press (Rent at nearly any auto-parts store)
• 1/2" Ratchet and socket to fit the press
• Handle off a Hi-Lift Jack (very helpful for other stubborn bolts too)
• Smaller 2" bolt (this is for after you press the bolt to the mount, you will still need to press it through all the way)

1. Make sure you use penetrating oil, although my bolt was dry for the majority of the length, soak the bolt the night before.

2. I pressed against the nut till it was flush, then removed the nut. Resist the urge to take a 3# hammer to the bolt as it will not budge. Continue with the press.

3. Once flush with the mount, use the smaller bolt to press it through the bushing.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:44 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb0108 View Post
The bolt circled in the pick is seized/rusted to the bushing sleeve. Is there a trick to get this thing out without having to cut it? A new one is $20 and I'd have to order it from the dealer...just trying to avoid paying $20 freakin bucks for 1 bolt and then having to wait for its arrival. Thanks
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:29 AM   #20
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looks like a good time to cut the bolts off and buy a good set of aftermarket arms . Then you don't need to use the cam bolts any more.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:17 AM   #21
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You don't need the cam bolts anyway. My 2001 had the provisions on the mount for them but did not have them.

Sledge hammer doesn't work, see my post above on using a U-Joint Press.
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:56 AM   #22
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I'm having same issue w/ the non-rubber end (whatever you call the jointed end) of Rubicon Express arm. Currently sitting here with an 8" C-clamp maxed out trying to mash the bolt head into a socket. 3 pound hammer just made me deaf. I might has well shot some clays without ear protection. I've also wailed on the the tightened C-Clamp. The other end of the arm is off, so no tension from axle.

Would prefer not sawsalling the joint and f-ing up the arm. Any other suggestions
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:02 AM   #23
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I have had luck with an air chisel with a pickle fork in it . try to work it under the head of the bolt or the washer under it . May not work to well with axle end of the lower fronts but it has worked on others.
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:13 AM   #24
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The most common cause for a control arm bolt being difficult to remove was mentioned above in post #5 by BLK00TJ. If the axle is positioned too low (drooping) or is stuffed too high, the control arm will be putting tension on the bolt. Try moving the axle up/down to get the tension off the bolt.

And Jeep stop using cam bolts in the '99 model year.
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:29 AM   #25
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They may of stopped using the bolts but the guides are there which stops the pickle fork , CORRECT ? In some states where we have rust the bolt will rust to the sleeve , very common
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Old 03-26-2016, 01:22 PM   #26
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Even when I had my axle off from the frame I couldn't get the damn things out. Ended up having to cut them.
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Old 03-26-2016, 02:10 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The most common cause for a control arm bolt being difficult to remove was mentioned above in post #5 by BLK00TJ. If the axle is positioned too low (drooping) or is stuffed too high, the control arm will be putting tension on the bolt. Try moving the axle up/down to get the tension off the bolt.

And Jeep stop using cam bolts in the '99 model year.
I agee, but the other end is disconnected from the axle.

Going to heat the bolt, and let cool.
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Old 03-26-2016, 03:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The most common cause for a control arm bolt being difficult to remove was mentioned above in post #5 by BLK00TJ. If the axle is positioned too low (drooping) or is stuffed too high, the control arm will be putting tension on the bolt. Try moving the axle up/down to get the tension off the bolt.

And Jeep stop using cam bolts in the '99 model year.
I agee, but the other end is disconnected from the axle.

Going to heat the bolt, and let cool.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:46 PM   #29
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Had to cut one of mine out recently. I used a hammer to the point where the mount on the axle started to bend.

I ended up removing the axle with the arm attached, which made it easier to cut out. Hack saw and die grinder with a big wheel. Either way, my press could barely remove the pin. I found the adjustable bolt at Napa in stock, if that's what your jeep needs.

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