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Old 11-10-2013, 06:43 PM   #1
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Shift issues after tcase drop

Ad a local shop install my lift due to some back issues I am having. After the lift and tcase drop I am having a hard tip hitting 2nd 4th and reverse. The gear shifter bottoms out on the console. They adjusted something and it is better but still not as good as I would like. Any ideas on what I can do to fix this? I may take it back but since I didn't install the lift I have no idea what my options are. Also 4 hi and low work fine.

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Old 11-10-2013, 07:31 PM   #2
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The shift stick is hitting the floor/tub.
You might gain enough clearance by replacing the factory rubber shift boot with a fake leather one from AutoZone (quite happy with mine actually). Or you might have to bend your shifter.

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Old 11-10-2013, 07:44 PM   #3
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The shift stick is hitting the floor/tub. You might gain enough clearance by replacing the factory rubber shift boot with a fake leather one from AutoZone (quite happy with mine actually). Or you might have to bend your shifter.
bend the shifter? That sounds painful. What is the best method of doing that?
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:48 PM   #4
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Trim inside the where the boot meets the body, I wiz wheeled 1/2 off in 2 min and no longer have any issues
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:51 PM   #5
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Ditch the t case drop and get an sye/cv conversion. 400 dollars for both.

And you won't have to deal with any of the skid plate nonsense.. I tried to get away with it but it's not worth it.. Just get the sye cv
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:55 PM   #6
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Ditch the t case drop and get an sye/cv conversion. 400 dollars for both. And you won't have to deal with any of the skid plate nonsense.. I tried to get away with it but it's not worth it.. Just get the sye cv
what is that do you have a link?
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:56 PM   #7
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Trim inside the where the boot meets the body, I wiz wheeled 1/2 off in 2 min and no longer have any issues
can I do that from the inside of the jeep
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:58 PM   #8
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can I do that from the inside of the jeep
http://bit.ly/1h5W6LM

Not half assed way to fix it
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:59 PM   #9
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Will help your driveline last longer also, brings your skid plate back up to normal position, no drop.

Also takes about 2 hours to install with socket sets and rtv sealant
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:13 PM   #10
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And some lisle snap ring & lock ring pliers, plus a rented puller if you have the balance ring on the tcase. If not a chisel can get the slinger off. A large breaker bar and pipe wrench to get the front yoke off. Might as well do the front shaft seal while the yoke is off.

GingerTj, where are you located? If you can do it in 2 hours can you come show me how? I can pull a tcase in about 20-30 minutes with a good ratchet wrench, and it goes way quicker then with it in the jeep. At least for me. But the last one took about 4 hrs, and I had a a buddy to help. If you can actually do it in 2 hours you must have alot of experience.
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:19 PM   #11
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A sye/cv conversion itself is not necessarily enough to do away with a TC drop. He'll also need a new driveshaft and adjustable control arms.
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:29 PM   #12
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A sye/cv conversion itself is not necessarily enough to do away with a TC drop. He'll also need a new driveshaft and adjustable control arms.
what do you think cv means?

but you are correct about needing adjustable control arms lol
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Old 11-11-2013, 06:19 AM   #13
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Don't forget spring relocation brackets too
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:10 AM   #14
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Don't forget spring relocation brackets too
Exactly...that $400 will turn in to more like $1000 once you buy all the other related parts, but it's still the best way to go.

For now he might just want to try getting rid of the foam tube (if he has one) around the shift lever underneath the shift boot.
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:13 AM   #15
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man you guys are killing me lol. My pockets are getting lighter
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:21 AM   #16
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Double Post
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:25 AM   #17
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You don't need spring correction brackets. You don't need shock extenders, or whatever the hell harryhood was talking about. Unless you are at 4" with tt or 6" lift, trim the lower coil buckets for shock clearance. You don't have to go just buying stuff just because.

sye/cv shaft $400 shipped from TW
RK Rear adjustable uppers $169 qtec
Angled cv tb bracket from RE $70 (unless you have an adjustable rear tb
Orange Rtv

That's it
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:23 PM   #18
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And some lisle snap ring & lock ring pliers, plus a rented puller if you have the balance ring on the tcase. If not a chisel can get the slinger off. A large breaker bar and pipe wrench to get the front yoke off. Might as well do the front shaft seal while the yoke is off. GingerTj, where are you located? If you can do it in 2 hours can you come show me how? I can pull a tcase in about 20-30 minutes with a good ratchet wrench, and it goes way quicker then with it in the jeep. At least for me. But the last one took about 4 hrs, and I had a a buddy to help. If you can actually do it in 2 hours you must have alot of experience.
I have a in ground lift, and every tool possible. Along with a staff of 2 others building trucks all day.

Dixon Preformance Engineering
Monticello Illinois

If you need one done I'll be happy to do it in 2 hours for 4 hours labor
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:24 PM   #19
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A sye/cv conversion itself is not necessarily enough to do away with a TC drop. He'll also need a new driveshaft and adjustable control arms.
By CV I mean a CV driveshaft...... And not true, you don't need the upper control arms in a lot of cases. If the cv didn't do enough then get control arms. Either way you start with the sye/ cv shaft
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:27 PM   #20
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[QUOTE="The_Dealer;6037138"]You don't need spring correction brackets. You don't need shock extenders, or whatever the hell harryhood was talking about. Unless you are at 4" with tt or 6" lift, trim the lower coil buckets for shock clearance. You don't have to go just buying stuff just because. sye/cv shaft $400 shipped from TW RK Rear adjustable uppers $169 qtec Angled cv tb bracket from RE $70 (unless you have an adjustable rear tb Orange Rtv That's it[/QUOTE

And the trac bar bracket should have came with your lift, at least mine did
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:39 PM   #21
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By CV I mean a CV driveshaft...... And not true, you don't need the upper control arms in a lot of cases. If the cv didn't do enough then get control arms. Either way you start with the sye/ cv shaft
How are you going to adjust the pinion angle without at least adjustable rear upper arms? The stock arms are sized to keep the pinion angle close to parallel with the tc output shaft, which is the completely wrong for an sye and dc drive shaft.

And the tb relocation bracket that comes with lift kits is the straight up model that will bind the bushing when adjusting the pinion angle upwards.
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:45 PM   #22
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How are you going to adjust the pinion angle without at least adjustable rear upper arms? The stock arms are sized to keep the pinion angle close to parallel with the tc output shaft, which is the completely wrong for an sye and dc drive shaft. And the tb relocation bracket that comes with lift kits is the straight up model that will bind the bushing when adjusting the pinion angle upwards.
As long as you don't have driveline vibrations your good to go
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:49 PM   #23
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what is that do you have a link?
there is some BS crappy "info" flying all around in here like a tornado.

read this:
What is a CV shaft and why do I want one?
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:26 PM   #24
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there is some BS crappy "info" flying all around in here like a tornado. read this: What is a CV shaft and why do I want one?
So after reading this, all jeeps are different. So you may not need adjustable upper arms to eliminate vibes
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:50 PM   #25
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So after reading this, all jeeps are different. So you may not need adjustable upper arms to eliminate vibes
"Because the Double Cardan Shaft moves along the length of its shaft section it requires the ability to change the pinion angle. This means adjustable control arms or control arm cam bolts. The axle pinion must point toward the output shaft of the transfer case. Otherwise the U-joints on the axle side will wear out very quickly."

I don't know about you but my jeep doesn't constantly need new U-joints. If you're saying that your jeep is just "different" and that's why you have to replace the U-joints more often then go for it.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:57 PM   #26
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"Because the Double Cardan Shaft moves along the length of its shaft section it requires the ability to change the pinion angle. This means adjustable control arms or control arm cam bolts. The axle pinion must point toward the output shaft of the transfer case. Otherwise the U-joints on the axle side will wear out very quickly." I don't know about you but my jeep doesn't constantly need new U-joints. If you're saying that your jeep is just "different" and that's why you have to replace the U-joints more often then go for it.
I have adjustable cam bolts
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:07 PM   #27
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I have adjustable cam bolts
Then why are you telling people that you can just slap on a DC shaft and a SYE and be good to go?
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:13 PM   #28
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bend the shifter? That sounds painful. What is the best method of doing that?
Painful? Shouldn't be too bad

Or you can spend $500 - $700+ and get rid of the t-case drop by doing the SYE, DC driveshaft, adjustable rear upper control arms, possibly having to grind the lower spring mounts for shock clearance in the process. And depending how much you have to rotate the rear pinion, might need an angled track bar bracket.

Or you leave the t-case drop and see what the shifter is hitting But then you will still have the drop on the t-case skid.

Depending what type of off-roading you do will determine the direction you should go.
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:16 PM   #29
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Then why are you telling people that you can just slap on a DC shaft and a SYE and be good to go?
I forget I have em lol mine came with them..

Ok so control arms. Easy work and not much money extra
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:27 AM   #30
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You don't need spring correction brackets. You don't need shock extenders, or whatever the hell harryhood was talking about.

That's it
if you don't know what someone is talking about when they say spring relocation brackets you probably shouldn't respond at all.

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