I am kind of at a loss. Part of me wants to ditch the BL and just throw a good susp lift on but it seems like from robinhoods answer I may not be chasing the solution.
I guess you need to define "a good susp lift" and consider your budget. If you want to ditch the BL all together then you'll be looking at a 4" lift to clear the 33s . . . IMO a good 4" set up includes a completely new suspension (springs, shocks, 8 adjustable control arms, f/r adjustable trackbars, bumpstops, etc) along with a CV Driveshaft and SYE (nonRubi) with this set up you would not be using a TC drop kit and Robinhood's issue would not apply. Or you could go with a 1" BL along with a 2" BB and also clear the 33's and still would most likely have no vibes and would not need to drop the TC. I don't see the point in lifting the Jeep just to turn around and drop the belly . . . totally counter productive for my application anyway. With the first option, you can fit 35's by adding a 1" BL (still no TC drop needed).
Originally Posted by jdub2k5
ya but you know you want to keep the big lift... I had a chick list night that I had to lift into my car lol
Spoken like a guy that has a chrome nutsack hanging from the rear bumper
Bite the hand that feeds you . . . you've had more than enough to eat already.
I've been VERY busy and haven't had time to fix this issue. I bought this jeep with the lift on it. I think it's a 3.25" with a 1" BL. The shifter hits in reverse also. The plastic frame can be knotched but the metal frame in the boot also gets in the way. It seems like we're going on about a simple fix. I'm gonna slap it in the vise, put some heat to it and bend it. I have close to half an inch room on top .
i had the same setup with a tc drop with 33's. i had to take out my BL due to lift laws here in jersey (they suck). not to bad comming out ended up replacing my gas filler neck tubes and had to cut out shifter extension and re weld it back to stock. so for those paying attention your bodylift should have come with a shifter extension that needed to be welded in below the bend in the shifter cheeper ones just give you one that screws onto the shifter at the knob or they dont give you one at all the shop i worked in just used 1/2 round stock like 3in long for the kits that didnt come with them. and as far as i remember you should need to notch the body only like 1/2 inch for reverse and for first so it dosen jump out (common BL problem) .
best i can say though is save the cash buy a good 4in sus lift and make your jeep go as good as it looks. your fellow jeepers will thank you
01 TJ 4in trailmaster sus, 33 SS trxus m/t's, IPF housings w/ ebay hid's, PIAA ion yellow fogs, old school KC daylighters, half top, soon to have poison spyder rockers and custom front and rear bumpers. finaly got an 8.8 and some other goodies. now its just time to put them in.
*WANTED* thick cut waggy D44 4:88's and carrier and a good set of 31 A/T's
dooder "all i have to say is if guns kill people, spoons and forks make people fat."
Just wanted to let you guys know that I came up with a solution that worked for me. The foam padding around the shaft had to go. That helped but I needed more clearance. I found that if I removed the boot bracket the shifter cleared alot better.
I took some small screws and drilled them in the top and stretched the lip of the boot.
It still gives me a lil trouble in the cold but when it warms up it shifts pretty good.