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Old 11-13-2010, 05:05 PM   #1
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shock removal

I tried a search, but found nothing for a TJ.
I was trying to change my shocks and can't get the front top nut off. I have tried to put vice grips on the top to hold the shaft, but it still turns. If I cut the shaft above the main body can I beat it up through the fender well? I can't get a sazall above the upper support to cut. I was also thinking of taking impact hammer (if I can get it up there) and try to cut below nut. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks

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Old 11-13-2010, 05:31 PM   #2
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You can use a saws all. That is what I needed to use when I switched my shocks. Just use a short blade made
For cutting metal. Pay attention to the wheel well and you will be fine. I cut mine without a single scratch.

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Old 11-13-2010, 05:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pony Hauler View Post
I tried a search, but found nothing for a TJ.
I was trying to change my shocks and can't get the front top nut off. I have tried to put vice grips on the top to hold the shaft, but it still turns.
Tighten the visegrips. If you get the visegrips tight enough, it's not going to turn. Some just pull the bottom of the shock straight out and snap the upper rod.
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Old 11-13-2010, 05:34 PM   #4
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I'm not to familiar with the TJ shocks but all the ones I've done (civic, my YJ) have all had an allen hole that you could hold the shaft with and the use a wrench as take the nut off.
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Old 11-13-2010, 05:35 PM   #5
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did you cut above the shock support? What kind of saws all do you have?
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Old 11-13-2010, 05:37 PM   #6
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Tighten the visegrips. If you get the visegrips tight enough, it's not going to turn. Some just pull the bottom of the shock straight out and snap the upper rod.
I had them as tight as they would go. Pulling the shock out will bend the support won't it?
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Old 11-13-2010, 06:42 PM   #7
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I just changed mine out same problem the top bolt rusted on.
what I did was I drilled some holes on the nut so its open one side like a C if you look top down which made it very easy to twist off.
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Old 11-13-2010, 06:58 PM   #8
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I struggled with mine for about an hour and then used the sawsall. Took about 30 seconds./
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:28 PM   #9
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Good grief a saws all never even scratched mine with a metal blade on it. When ever I need to cut through stuff like that I get out my angel grinder.
Really like to know what saws all blades you all are using
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:54 PM   #10
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When ever I need to cut through stuff like that I get out my angel grinder.
What, your angle grinder came with a halo?
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:01 PM   #11
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Don't try to cut the shaft of the shock. Cut the bolt itself!! I don't think you are getting through that shock.
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:02 PM   #12
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I just did mine, the same issue. I was able to grab the upper shock body w a large pair of channel locks, then broke off the nut and shaft top w impact gun (the nut wouldn't turn - so the shaft snapped). Man was there alot of rust on the ground when I was done!!

The rears on the other hand gave me issues. Bottom bolts - no problem. Top ones though...

I'm going to try again tonight, any tips on upper bolts on the rear shocks? No body lift here, so I cannot get above them.
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:05 PM   #13
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I'm going to try again tonight, any tips on upper bolts on the rear shocks? No body lift here, so I cannot get above them.
Spray them a couple times with a good quality effective penetrant like Liquid Wrench, PB-Blaster, Break-Free, etc. WD-40 does not qualify, don't bother trying it as it's not suitable for this job.
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:09 PM   #14
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Thanks Jerry! I did that. It has had a couple days to soak (PB Blaster), hope it goes better tonight.

Are the nuts welded to the frame, or are they "nut-certs"(sp?)?

I'm worried the top will let go and it will just spin. I had 2 "u-nuts" break while removing the radiator. Made what should have been an easy job a pain. Gotta love the rust belt!
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:11 PM   #15
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Pretty sure they are welded in place.
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:12 PM   #16
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Good! Thanks for the input Jerry!

Hope this helps the OP also. Sorry for the semi-hyjack.
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:13 PM   #17
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Doing the same Lift next Week and have Been spraying my shock bolts every other day for two weeks . Will give it a go next week .

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Old 11-13-2010, 09:00 PM   #18
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I noticed in the quadratec catalog they have a $9 tool that goes over the rectangular bolt and holds it with a sleeve as a socket tightens/loosens the bolt. I wish I would have had it when I put my shocks in, I had the same problem......

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92810_202.htm
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
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What, your angle grinder came with a halo?
Lol, although with the number of times that angle grinder has saved me it might just have a faint halo
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Tighten the visegrips. If you get the visegrips tight enough, it's not going to turn. Some just pull the bottom of the shock straight out and snap the upper rod.
Exactly what I did....SNAP! Worked like a charm.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:42 PM   #21
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I just went through this today...I ended up using a pipe wrench on the upper housing of the shock, and a box wrench on the nut.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:46 PM   #22
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Exactly what I did....SNAP! Worked like a charm.
mine didnt snap and I bent the chrome rod.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:51 PM   #23
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Wow, just did mine a couple of weeks ago and all the nuts and bolts came off easily...no issues....
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:24 AM   #24
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Wow, just did mine a couple of weeks ago and all the nuts and bolts came off easily...no issues....
this what mine looked like when I took them off
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Old 11-14-2010, 02:11 AM   #25
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I just changed out my front shocks today. I had the exact same problem. What I did was use 2 vice grips, tight as all hell on the shaft, then I used an impact wrench and got both nuts off that way. Either they'll come off or break, either way you win.
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Old 11-14-2010, 02:17 AM   #26
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this what mine looked like when I took them off

Yikes! I see why you had a problem...
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Old 11-14-2010, 02:52 AM   #27
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I took a dremel to the top nut on both sides and split it in half, didn't even bother trying to deal with it.
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:35 AM   #28
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Thanks Jerry! I did that. It has had a couple days to soak (PB Blaster), hope it goes better tonight.

Are the nuts welded to the frame, or are they "nut-certs"(sp?)?

I'm worried the top will let go and it will just spin. I had 2 "u-nuts" break while removing the radiator. Made what should have been an easy job a pain. Gotta love the rust belt!
Good luck with that. Not to scare or discourage you, but when I did my lift, I broke the head off of one upper bolt on each side in the back. Complete and utter pain in the ass. Lots of drilling and pounding and swearing trying to get those suckers out. I was literally to the point of figuring out how to just lift the entire tub off the frame so I could get better access to them, but I finally got them. Turned a 2 day lift job into 4 days. And I don't have much rust at all. I still have nightmares about those two bolts.

Oh, and to answer your question... on mine ('05 TJ), the nuts are welded to the frame. I tried to chisel them off, but they are on there good.
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:24 PM   #29
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Front shocks - upper end - use a nut splitter on the nut - slip it over the nut, tighten the tool's screw. The nut shatters and falls off.
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Old 11-14-2010, 12:36 PM   #30
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this what mine looked like when I took them off
Those are pretty much exactly what mine look like (rears to)!

I got my rears on last night (and my DOTlights)! I had a hard time w the frame side one on the driver side. The head was semi-rounded off. I was getting POed, so I finished the other side, came back, and it broke loose.

I was able to PB blast it from the top when I pulled off the wheel well. I think that helped.

Any luck w your Pnoy Hauler?

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