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Old 10-18-2010, 11:22 AM   #1
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Skid plate missalignment...help

I have a Rubicon and I'm putting on RC 3.25in lift. Everything is almost done except the t-case drop. I got the spacers in on side of the skid plate and all bolted up on the driver side. The one bolt by the auto trans is just spinning in the frame on the driver side. I have no clue how to get it out. The passenger side bolts are out but now the plate has shifted a good inch. Nothing is lining up on the passenger side and I'm not sure how to get it aligned backup. Any suggestions would be great.

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Old 10-18-2010, 06:00 PM   #2
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If you have a Rubi, you don't use the tcase drop.
Take the drop out of the driver's side and put it back the way it was.

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Old 10-18-2010, 06:04 PM   #3
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he's got a point. If anything you may have to get adjustable rear upper control arms to compensate for pinion angle.

The rubicons don't have a slip yoke to eliminate which is the main reason for the drop in skid plate. The driveshaft is pulled out too far and creates bad vibes.
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:18 PM   #4
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So no t-case drop. Which is better a slip yoke or control arms if needed? Trying to stay budget friendly as well. Leaving the t-case drop in will yield me zero results correct?
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:27 PM   #5
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As far as the bolt spinning in the frame it happened on my Rubi also had to cut the bolt head off. The nut that is spinning is pressed into the frame and it was a pain to get it out. They make "weld nuts" that you can put in the hole and weld in I was able to put a regular nut in a frame access and slide it to where it needed to go. Pain it the butt.
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:31 PM   #6
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Went threw same issue the nut that is welded inside the frame is striped,I had to use a circle saw and cut a circle in the frame were the bolt is then removed the old nut and replaced with new hardware.If the bolt wont back out try a prybar and put downward pressure while trying to back the bolt out worked for me.
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:35 PM   #7
Knows a couple things...

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The Rubicon will benefit from a t-case drop after installing a 3"+ suspension lift the same as any TJ does. The only difference with the Rubicon is its transfer case output shaft does not have a slip-joint. Instead, the Rubicon's slip-joint is on its conventional non-CV driveshaft instead of on the t-case output shaft like a non-Rubicon TJ.

The spinning nut is a somewhat common problem. You can fix it by chiseling the bottom of the nut-flange off the frame and then inserting a weld-in nut like you can buy from McMaster-Carr, an online supplier of hardware. Check out McMaster-Carr

Adjustable length control arms won't help since you are still running the stock conventional driveshaft. The pinion angle is critical and trying to adjust it to get rid of vibes with the OE conventional driveshaft is either impossible or nearly impossible.

The best solution is to replace your conventional driveshaft with a CV driveshaft like Tom Wood makes. That will then require adjustable length upper control arms so you can adjust the pinion angle upward to match the CV driveshaft's requirements.

Or get the t-case lowering kit installed but you might also need a set of 1" taller motor mounts since a 1" t-case lowering kit is often not enough to cure the vibes caused by 3"+ suspension lifts. The cost of the combined t-case lowering kit and 1" taller motor mounts is less than a CV driveshaft and adjustable-length control arms but the latter solution is the right way to go.
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:57 PM   #8
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So some say no drop and then do the drop. Which is the best idea bc I'm working on this in the morning.
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:54 AM   #9
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I'd listen to Jerry.....
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:18 AM   #10
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Gotta put it in. Got a good amount of vibration. funess.

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YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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