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Old 06-02-2013, 09:27 PM   #1
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Snapped a body mount bolt....yep.

So yea, I was gettin ready to put on my new sliders on my LJ, and started loosening the body mounts. Everything was going smooth, I got to the passenger side and did the two back mounts by the rocker, then went to do the first one and the bolt snapped. It sticks out from the tub maybe an inch. Has this ever happened to anyone before? Does anyone have any advice on what I should do? The jeep is in good condition underneath, I don't understand why it snapped! The other 5 came out pretty easy? F#$%K!!

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Old 06-02-2013, 09:40 PM   #2
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You can weld a nut to what is left and try again....PB blast it first. Also alternate between loosening and tightening just a bit...work it out slowly. If it feels like it's getting hung up again then put it where it feels loosest and spray more PB Blaster...let it sit overnight.

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Old 06-02-2013, 09:45 PM   #3
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Happened to me. Same bolt. I ended up cutting a hole in the floor to access the top of the broken bolt, and replaced it with some grade 8 hardware. Not ideal, but it works. I covered the hole with a piece of dynamat and put the carpet back. Might cover it another way in the future when I go to Bed-Liner the floor.

I didn't have any sticking out the bottom, and trying to drill it did not go well. You can also try a pair of vice grips real tight on the bolt, and definitely lots of PB or Kroll. Or do like I do, and spray both on there. I swear the two chemicals mix into some super-powerful penetrant.
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:54 PM   #4
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Happened to me. All I did was drill it out, bit caught and pushed the rest of the bolt out clean.
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:59 PM   #5
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I tried the vice grips but the SOB is on their...Glad I am not the only one haha I was so mad. I could see if it was rusted up but it's not. Sucks when you do the 5 mounts get to the last one and boom. Sucks even worse when the breaker bar smashes into your face when it snaps too, but yea seems like either welding a nut on and trying it again or cutting a hole in the floor. How did you get it out through the floor? Does it have a welded nut on top or what?
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:38 AM   #6
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It does not wave a welded nut on top. I would get some reverse drill bits. As you drill, if it frees itself some, it may come out. If you end up spinning the captive nut you will have to make a hole in your floor pan to get to it.

You can drill a small hole in the floor pan so you can get some pb blaster or other penetrant where it counts, on top of the nut and bolt.

Been there, done that.
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Old 06-03-2013, 06:02 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by JeepTjUnlimited06 View Post
I tried the vice grips but the SOB is on their...Glad I am not the only one haha I was so mad. I could see if it was rusted up but it's not. Sucks when you do the 5 mounts get to the last one and boom. Sucks even worse when the breaker bar smashes into your face when it snaps too, but yea seems like either welding a nut on and trying it again or cutting a hole in the floor. How did you get it out through the floor? Does it have a welded nut on top or what?
Yes it has a welded nut inside the tub. This happened to my son's TJ when installing a body lift. If you can get another bolt welded on that would be ideal. The best way to get penetrating oil to the nut is drill a small hole in the floor just above the bolt. It only needs to be large enough for the penetrate straw, then spray the heck out of it. A small hole is much easier to fix than a large one.
Worst case (what we had to do) use a dremel or small cut off tool (I used a plasma cutter) to cut a hole in the floor to access the nut. Using a torch or dremel, cut out the nut and bolt. Install new hardware tack welding the nut. Touch up with paint. Weld the piece you cut out of the floor back in and paint. Good luck.
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Old 06-03-2013, 06:11 AM   #8
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It does not wave a welded nut on top. I would get some reverse drill bits. As you drill, if it frees itself some, it may come out. If you end up spinning the captive nut you will have to make a hole in your floor pan to get to it.

You can drill a small hole in the floor pan so you can get some pb blaster or other penetrant where it counts, on top of the nut and bolt.

Been there, done that.
I could be wrong but I am pretty sure mine was a welded nut. It's been a year but I do remember cutting it off with the plasma cutter. Maybe it was just rusted in. Either way hopefully it comes out the bottom.
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:20 AM   #9
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The same thing happened to me when doing my body lift. I snapped the rear most bolt on the passenger side, and like your case mine was also out an inch or so.

What I did was a combination of PB blaster and Heat. If you have not heated it even once yet then heat is your biggest friend here. Heat it, blast it, try to move it with vice grips. Repeat this process a few times and it will come out. When you heat it make sure you heat it well like almost red types. Also PB blaster does not catch fire so dont worry about heating a PB blasted bolt.

Also if vice grips are not working try using lock nuts. Best of luck! broken bolts suck!
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:19 AM   #10
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I cut a hole using a drill and hole-saw just big enough for me to fit my smallest cut-off wheel. I think it was 1-1/2". Then I used the cut off wheel to cut the welded nut out, and fit a socket through the hole to bolt down my new grade 8 hardware. Just make sure you measure correctly as to where to put the hole. Need to make sure it ends up directly over the body mount bolt.

I had tried drilling it out and had tried using the broken-bolt removal tools before I resorted to cutting the hole in the floor. By all means try to get it out without having to cut the floor, but in the end....sometimes you just have to suck it up and cut the hole in the floor. Really not bad once you do it, and then 10 mins later you're sliders are all bolted up.

I also found that water was puddling in my passenger footwell, leading to significant rusting above that bolt. I attribute that to part of my trouble. While I had the carpet out, I removed all of the surface rust and sprayed that special rust-inhibiting paint on the floorboard to keep it from getting worse. You might want to see how your floorboard is holding up.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:29 AM   #11
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Yea I would of tried heating it but I don't have a torch. While I had the body up I sprayed it a couple of times, and tried my vice grips but it was just gonna spin on me and I didn't want to mess up the threads in case we can manage to spin a nut on and tack it up and try it again. I'm going to run it down to my buddy's shop and see when he will be able to give me a hand. He has acetalyne torches and a welder so I am sure we can get it out much easier over their, than in my garage. We had to do this with the upper rear shock bolts (which suck also) and the heat got them right out. Does anyone know what size bolts they are off hand? Think I should get some grade 8 hardware and some anti-seize to prevent this in the future.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:29 PM   #12
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Do you have a body lift? If so depends on the size of the bolt.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:47 PM   #13
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Nope, no body lift. Taking it to my buddies shop saturday and we are gonna see if we can get it out. Hopefully the trusty torch busts it loose. I just wanna get my sliders on already.
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:53 PM   #14
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Well, to sum it up we got it out. It was a nightmare. Tacked a nut on and tried that, wouldn't move. Torched it 50 times and sprayed it with oil while hot to let it seat in good, and it still was rock solid. Ended up cutting a small enough hole so we could get the torch in to heat the top of the bolt, then spraying oil on it. Did this about 50 times on both sides and it finally started to turn but would still lock up after like half a turn. Continued to keep doing this process for about an hour and finally it got loose enough to get it out with a breaker bar attached. Ended up being some of the bolt threads were bent up causing it to bind. Got a new bolt and she threads right up in now. Now it's back to putting on the rock sliders. Thanks everyone for your input and help.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:15 PM   #15
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Damn what a battle. Congrats, always ends up working out.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:59 AM   #16
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I'm about to install nerf bars myself, worried I may run into this problem I have been looking up the threads of how people have delt with this issue.

Has anyone thought of doing this? Its just a bolt extractor kit bought at local hardware stores.

Removing A Broken Bolt Or Stud With A Bolt Extractor - YouTube
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:26 AM   #17
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Heat + electric impact usually works wonders.

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