+The sucking noise is fixed. I think it stopped making that noise after I checked the gap on all the plugs.
+I do plan on replacing the coil today. Any suggestions on what coil to get would be appreciated. I was looking at an Accel coil that read pretty good on the description/performance.
+I will also pull the plugs while while running again to see if I can locate the problem. The last time i tried this i just got shocked 6 times and couldn't tell much of a difference.
This whole problem started when i changed the spark plugs. THEN I changed the wires 30 minutes later to try and fix it.
Also, it IS making the thumping noise like its straining. I have put about 25 miles on it so far since this started. How long do you think it would take to burn off would could be causing this?
If I cant get this fixed by Friday I will most likely take it to a mechanic. I'll be sure to post the final resolution to this problem. I found a few dead threads with the exact same problem i am having but was NEVER updated with the final results.
When troubleshooting a misfire problem years ago, I installed an Accel coil just to see if my OE coil had gone bad. It made no difference and it certainly didn't improve anything performance or fuel economy-wise. The TJ's ignition system is actually very good as is.
__________________ When you have a choice, buy American.
I already replaced all that with vehicle specific parts. I didnt notice anything when i unplug the wires while its running.
I'm thinking about running open headers to see if my cat converter is messed up, does this sound like a good idea?
If you didn't notice anything while unpluging the wires when its running, then thats the problem. The motor should have deff. ran different when one of the plugs was not firing. Did you check all one at a time or just the first?
I wonder if you misunderstood or it's a good indication of something else:
While it's running at idle you pulled a plug wire off at the distributor, it should drop in RPM around 100-200 RPM. When you replace it, it should go back to normal again. Doing that on each plug wire, one at a time, will find a specific cylinder that's misfiring. The one that doesn't drop as much tells us alot. If more than one, it's another big clue.
The computer will try to keep the speed constant using the IAC, but it should drop the RPM, then the computer raises it back up, but there's a delay of at least a second or two. You'll feel it drop, then go back up. When you put it back on, it'll actually run a little fast a moment - the opposite of when you pulled it.
They should all drop about the same amount.
But - if what you said is correct, pulling one does nothing, and they all are like that - then there's another possibility:
You had chunks of ceramic flying around - I wonder if a chunk of it got caught in the EGR Valve? If so, the valve could be hung open.
Here's why I wonder -- Pulling a wire stops a cylinder from firing, but some of the fuel from that cylinder gets recycled through the EGR Valve (if it's open) and richens the other 5 cylinders. The drop in RPM in the one cylinder is offset by the other 5 speeding up a little - thus no change.
First remove and plug the vacuum line to the EGR - see if it makes it run better.
If not, remove the EGR Valve and look at the underneath side (they come off easy) - you'll see the plunger is supposed to seat fully in the hole (valve seat.) If not, determine why. Sometimes a bent stem, dirty stem, or even the wrong vacuum applied to the valve can cause it to stay open when it shouldn't.
The reason the plugs were overheated and broken, still isn't clear - were the wrong plugs used?
Were they Splitfires, Bosch or some other so called "high performance" plug?
Timing set way too advanced?
That in itself will help.
And -- check that compression!
One of the first things a shop will - or should do - is put their scope on it to see how the cylinders are firing. Then they will do the same test as pulling the plug wires one at a time, but electronically with the scope. By the scope pattern and a shot of propane they should be able to quickly determine what's wrong.
Expect to pay an hour's labor.
If they start experimenting by throwing parts at it - RUN!
It's no wonder the country is falling apart - stupidity abounds!
Are you sure your wires are on right and you didn't knock the timimg out when you changed the cap and rotor? I would check like others have said for a dead cyclinder, but it sounds like a tiimg issue, or a disconnected vacuum line.
Only thing that could have happened is if the camaro plug was longer they could have come in contact with the tops of the pistons and thats what cracked the ends of the plugs. Alot of plugs will fit the same hole size wise but the real variable is in the electrode and insulator length etc.
Ok rrich I'm going to try the EGR valve thing. I think the #1 cylinder has a problem then, because even though the other plugs were not that noticeable the #1 didn't do any thing, but it was getting spark. I'm not sure why the plugs were broken, they looked like platinum bosch, but they were real old like they have never been changed before.
If it is a timing problem what can I do?
Also I took the exhaust off at the headers but that damn thing is LOUD and to be honest I'm afraid to test drive it because I live on base. Not much better if I go off post because I'm in Hawaii and their smog laws are so bad they may sentence me to death if they catch me.
You should be able to test the EGR Valve once it's off. Turn it upside down, pour some rubbing alcohol in the cavity - it shouldn't run out past the valve.
If the valve seems OK, do a compression check on at least the #1 cylinder, best to do them all though. Surely someone around there has a compression gauge to borrow. Does the base have a hobby shop?
When checking compression - Be sure to disable the ignition, prop the throttle wide open, and watch each pulse as you crank it. The first pulse should be about 90% of the end result after 4 or 5 pulses. Do all cylinders the same way - same number of pulses.
Even a bad cylinder can look OK if you crank it long enough.
If one is much lower than the others - I suspect #1 will be low - add a tablespoon of motor oil in the hole, crank it over 3 or 4 revs, then take another reading with the gauge, same as before.
Let us know what you find.
Bosch Platinums are killers unless the head was designed around them. There are only a few vehicles that can use them, even though the promoters say otherwise.
Personally, I'd like to see them made illegal. I've seen way too many engines with problems or even destroyed by them.
You can even spot them with a scope - they look like they are fouled, even brand shiny new.
It's no wonder the country is falling apart - stupidity abounds!
I feel like a real idiot but I'm going to explain what ended up causing and resolving the misfire problem.
As everyone read the problem started after replacing the spark plugs. So I replaced the spark plugs again, then the wires, then the wires again because they were 8mm wires for my camaro, then replaced the cap and rotor, then the coil. I was out there today trying to do the compression test again and do what rrich suggested. The spark plug i pulled out was an autolite platinum, I guess when I was changing the plugs for the second time I got mixed up and put the same damn plug back in instead of switching it with the champion plug.
I went out and bought another champion plug ( i threw the other away on accident I guess ) and the problem is gone, the jeep runs like a beast. I know some people say autolite is a good plug and I know some people say it is crap. From this experience I will never ... ever ... use autolite plats again.
I want to thank all of you for taking the time to try and help me solve this problem, it's good to know I have some where to turn for help.
PROBLEM SOLVED :
I know some people say autolite is a good plug and I know some people say it is crap. From this experience I will never ... ever ... use autolite plats again.
Autolite but it won't
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89 yj 4 banger 5sp. 2" BL 31x10.50 fixed up and sold
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