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Old 06-13-2014, 09:29 PM   #1
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Spark Plug Types

Hey Everyone,

Thinking it's time for a tune-up this weekend. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil (and filter). All the good stuff.

I remember working at Kragen a few years ago, and Champion brand plugs were normally what were recommended. I was planning on putting those in (though I'm open to suggestions) but I'm wondering people's opinions on copper vs platinum, vs double platinum, vs any other types. Anybody have good info for me?

Thanks, guys!!

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Old 06-13-2014, 09:33 PM   #2
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What model year and engine do you have?

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Old 06-13-2014, 09:34 PM   #3
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sorry; I'm usually good at saying that ahead of time. 97 TJ with a 4.0
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Old 06-13-2014, 09:40 PM   #4
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I just did this on my '99 Wrangler Sport 4.0l with 68k miles. I prefer Autolite copper plugs but that's just me. I've always used them on my Mustangs over the years and they always perform great.

I installed Autolite #985 plugs gapped to .035, Mopar plug wires, and Accel Distributor cap & rotor. Jeep runs great.

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Old 06-13-2014, 09:44 PM   #5
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Ok thanks. I'd first look for a new distributor cap and rotor with brass contacts, those with aluminum contacts are cheaper and don't last as long.

Wiring wise, the OE Mopar ignition wiring set really is about the best you can get, not to mention it doesn't cause problems like many aftermarket ignition wiring sets can. You can get it at a discount at WeRMopar.com - OEM Parts For Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Ram Vehicles. If you decide to buy your ignition wiring set locally anyway, avoid ANY wiring sets that push low-resistance as a feature/benefit. Low resistance ignition wiring is not good like it sounds like, I know it sounds good but it's not, avoid such wiring.

For spark plugs, it's hard to beat the Autolite AP985 or Champion 3034 which are both single-tipped platinum plugs. Either of those plugs will last 100k miles or so. There is no benefit to running double-tipped platinum plugs like the Autolite APP985 or Champion 7034 with your particular ignition system. These outlast (by 3-4X) and outperform traditional copper core plugs by a long shot. Not to mention the recommended platinum plugs use what is called "fine wire" technology which means the plugs will fire more reliably in more difficult ignition conditions.

For oil filters, it doesn't much matter so long as you change your oil and filter on a regular basis. There's not much significant difference between any of them. I'd happily run a Purolator PureOne, AC-Delco Duraguard, Wix, Fram UltraGuard, etc. I've seen the filtration tests being run live on various brands of filters, many of the more expensive highly-touted filter brands filter no better than far less expensive filters do.
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:18 PM   #6
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Thanks, guys! I appreciate the input. I'll probably grab the stuff tomorrow and get it all done
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:03 PM   #7
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I do not like Champion plugs, what does it come with new? I always use OEM oil filters.
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Old 06-14-2014, 03:02 PM   #8
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I do not like Champion plugs, what does it come with new?
Champion plugs are very high quality and better than many brands. Autolites and Champions are probably the two most recommended plugs used in our Jeeps, those are the two brands I've been recommending nearly 20 years and never any complaints. Jeep uses various brands of plugs, depending on who gave them the best bid.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:43 PM   #9
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Champion plugs are very high quality and better than many brands. Autolites and Champions are probably the two most recommended plugs used in our Jeeps, those are the two brands I've been recommending nearly 20 years and never any complaints. Jeep uses various brands of plugs, depending on who gave them the best bid.
I have never had anything run worth a d with Champions, two stroke dirt bike, 396 V8 or lawnmowers and everything in between. OEM plugs are made to manufacturers specs so it will not matter who makes them. After market plugs are made to cover as wide a range as is possible. To sell more plugs. In my GM cars I run AC, in Harley what Harley sells and most everything else NKG.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:48 PM   #10
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Last I knew of Champion had the HD contract, but they cost double to get the logo on them. Personally never had an issue with NGK's, champions, autolites, or denso's. Have run all on various machines, most with considerably high ignition requirements, never had a crap set from any of them. Maybe I'm just lucky.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:54 PM   #11
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Last I knew of Champion had the HD contract, but they cost double to get the logo on them. Personally never had an issue with NGK's, champions, autolites, or denso's. Have run all on various machines, most with considerably high ignition requirements, never had a crap set from any of them. Maybe I'm just lucky.

The dirt bike I was referring to was a Kawasaki KX 450 (one cylinder!), I am not lying it would foul a Champion plug in two hours, put NKG in it and I would run about the whole riding season.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:57 PM   #12
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You may have had problems in other vehicles but the two Champion plugs that are regularly recommended here depending on the model year, the 3034 and 7034, have a superb reputation in our engines. They are not a one-size-fits-all like most Bosch plugs are, the Champions we regularly recommend here have the exact specs and heat range the Jeep is designed for.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:39 PM   #13
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I appreciate all the opinions here, guys. Just got done with tune-up; I went with the Champion platinum plugs (the 7034), BWD cap and rotor from Kragen (old habits die hard, and since I worked there before they went to O'Reilly they will always be Kragen to me). They weren't the cheap ones; they had the brass contacts, and I've never seen any consistent issues with BWD. The wires I got from Summit Racing, actually. Never tried them before, so I'm willing to give them a shot. Mobil 1 oil with a K&N filter (Jerry, I know you said there's no real difference but I trust the K&N name more than other brands, so I'm willing to shell out a little extra cash). And for the finale, put some Lucas oil stabilizer in the oil; I am a believer in Lucas products and like adding them to many fluids.

So far so good; it feels a lot better. I drove it to my parents' house (about 40 minutes away) and it drove like dream. I'm very happy at the moment
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:45 PM   #14
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You should have went E-3 I get 50 mpg now.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:46 PM   #15
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I use K&N oil filters, nothing wrong with them. As an added bonus they are set up for safety wire and they have a nut in case they ever get stuck on, though I've never had it happen.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:51 PM   #16
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I use a washable stainless oil filter from summit racing. It has a magnet in it. You clean it with kerosene. It's paid for itself. It has an o ring instead of a flat gasket. You have to over tighten the f out of it or it leaks. Any way I'm happy. Just buy oil now. Castrol syntec used 140,000 miles still don't burn a drop. read last post don't know if I'm off topic.
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:05 AM   #17
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This thread has been more about my tune-up than spark plugs anyways. I'll look into that washable filter, but in general I'd rather just spin-on/spin-off and throw it away. Washing it sounds like a pain in the "rear" (to keep it PC for the forum).

and Majnoon, PLEASE tell me that's a joke... I'm about to go grab new plugs haha
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:35 AM   #18
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To the OP, I've also learned on this forum that the Motorcraft FL1A filter works on the 4.0l. I have about 5 of these filters in the garage because I've owned about 8 different foxbody 5.0 Mustangs over the years (I currently have an '86 GT project). I put one in my TJ this past oil change and it works great.

I only mention this because the Motorcraft FL1A filter is slightly bigger and I personally have found Motorcraft products to be top notch. Really, the only oil filter I avoid is Fram.

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Old 06-15-2014, 10:39 AM   #19
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To the OP, I've also learned on this forum that the Motorcraft FL1A filter works on the 4.0l. I have about 5 of these filters in the garage because I've owned about 8 different foxbody 5.0 Mustangs over the years (I currently have an '86 GT project). I put one in my TJ this past oil change and it works great. I only mention this because the Motorcraft FL1A filter is slightly bigger and I personally have found Motorcraft products to be top notch. Really, the only oil filter I avoid is Fram. Marcus
Im glad Im not the only one who uses a FL1A. I have a 92GT hatch so it makes buying filters easy.
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:22 PM   #20
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...and Majnoon, PLEASE tell me that's a joke... I'm about to go grab new plugs haha
I assure you it's a joke. That is, if you were referring to the E3 plug 50mpg post.
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Old 06-15-2014, 01:00 PM   #21
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I was... It was one of those moments where my rational side was saying "haha, that's funny" and the broke college student was thinking "....well is that possible?" haha.

And thanks for the tidbits about the Motorcraft filters; I would have never thought of those working. I have always used motorcraft when working on fords themselves, but just never thought they'd be jeep-able. I'll remember that for next change!
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:48 PM   #22
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Where did you get that Accel distributor and rotor with brass contacts?
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:49 PM   #23
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I've tried O'Reilly's and every auto parts store in this area and also the dealership parts department. All aluminum.
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:07 PM   #24
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Where did you get that Accel distributor and rotor with brass contacts?
I got them online from Jegs. You can also check Summit, Ebay or Amazon. The cap has brass contacts but the rotor has aluminum contact. I think you can find the OE Mopar rotor on Ebay with the brass contact.
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Old 06-21-2014, 12:39 AM   #25
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Actually I discovered by calling the dealer that the opposite is true...aluminum OEM is what they're selling.

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