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Old 12-31-2008, 02:43 PM   #1
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?spark plugs?

ok, 2 days ago i got the idea to put bosch double platinum spark plugs in. there was nothing wrong with the other ones just wanted to put fresh ones in. so now my jeep is running funny, when im going about 65 a come up to a stop light the rpms drop real!! low and it acts liek it wants to die??? what could this be??
its happend 3 or 4 time

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Old 12-31-2008, 03:06 PM   #2
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check your firing order, and also the plug gap. sometimes people drop a plug and don't realize the gap got messed up.

also jeeps like good ole champion plugs. some bosch plugs don't work well in them.

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Old 12-31-2008, 03:21 PM   #3
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ok the order is correct, i did one at a time. and the spaces were already done. maybe my jeep just dosent work well with them? would u change them?

i might need to start another thread but my oil pressure guage will go up and down as i go fast or slow. is this normal?
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:24 PM   #4
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With the 98 you have I'd get rid of the platinums, and just stick in some champion truck plugs.

The oil pressure gage will go up and down will more and less rpm/throttle.

What PSI is it running?
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:24 PM   #5
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i'd switch to the o.e. style champ plug. and the oil pressure depends on the numbers. most jeeps idle around 40 psi, and are around 60 at speed. give or take 5-10 psi and thats completely normal. larger fluctuations, at different times is usually just the oil pressure sender, which is very easy to replace, right by the oil filter, and usually gets damaged when hacks are changing the oil filter.

oh yeah, make sure plug wires are snapped on tight, and you changed wires, cap and rotor also right?
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98_tj View Post
ok the order is correct, i did one at a time. and the spaces were already done. maybe my jeep just dosent work well with them? would u change them?

i might need to start another thread but my oil pressure guage will go up and down as i go fast or slow. is this normal?
i'd try a different plug before i start fiddling w/ other things. i prefer NGK plugs, but a lot of guys on the forum swear by champion. i'd stay away from autolite & split fire. also don't get the plugs from walmart, their plugs are not good (eventhough they have a brand name on them). did you get the bosch plugs from walmart?

Yes it is normal for the oil pressure to fluctuate when accelerating / decelerating. does it raise or drop significantly? what is the range.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:34 PM   #7
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i'd try a different plug before i start fiddling w/ other things. i prefer NGK plugs, but a lot of guys on the forum swear by champion. i'd stay away from autolite & split fire. also don't get the plugs from walmart, their plugs are not good (eventhough they have a brand name on them). did you get the bosch plugs from walmart?

Yes it is normal for the oil pressure to fluctuate when accelerating / decelerating. does it raise or drop significantly? what is the range.
yeah i got the plugs from wallyworld...

about the oil pressure, i can rev it up and it will go from about 30 to 50
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:35 PM   #8
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Thats normal.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:36 PM   #9
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i'd switch to the o.e. style champ plug. and the oil pressure depends on the numbers. most jeeps idle around 40 psi, and are around 60 at speed. give or take 5-10 psi and thats completely normal. larger fluctuations, at different times is usually just the oil pressure sender, which is very easy to replace, right by the oil filter, and usually gets damaged when hacks are changing the oil filter.

oh yeah, make sure plug wires are snapped on tight, and you changed wires, cap and rotor also right?
nope just put the new plugs in.. can i just put the old ones back in>??
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:38 PM   #10
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Yes if they are good just clean them up a bit and put back in.

If you want to pick up the champian truck plugs or O.E. champians get them at Autozone, Napa, Advance auto, Oriely's ...they will have them in stock.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:43 PM   #11
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yup, you can put the old ones back in, but might as well replace them with the champion. they're cheaper than bosch, so its not that much money to do. but i always recomend doing the complete tune up at once to avoid confusion later if your jeep starts running funny. do the cap rotor plugs and wires if it hasn't been done for a while.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:44 PM   #12
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Yes if they are good just clean them up a bit and put back in.

If you want to pick up the champian truck plugs or O.E. champians get them at Autozone, Napa, Advance auto, Oriely's ...they will have them in stock.
ok ill just get some new ones, it had autolites in it..
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:45 PM   #13
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yup, you can put the old ones back in, but might as well replace them with the champion. they're cheaper than bosch, so its not that much money to do. but i always recomend doing the complete tune up at once to avoid confusion later if your jeep starts running funny. do the cap rotor plugs and wires if it hasn't been done for a while.
ok , how much does that run?
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:48 PM   #14
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ok , how much does that run?
Depends on what you want. "supplier wise".

You can go online to Orielys.com or advance, or napa, or autozone. Which ever you have local or prefer to use.

To check out prices.

You'll need...

Cap
rotor
wires
plugs.
de-electric grease
anti-seze.

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Old 12-31-2008, 03:52 PM   #15
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ok thanks for the help!
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:55 PM   #16
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:42 PM   #17
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While the Autolite APP985 plugs are more expensive than what would have worked just as well, their single-tipped AP985, I doubt it's the plugs causing your idle problem... it's probably just coincidental. Only the newer distributorless ignitions require a double-tipped plug like the APP985 if you want platinum, the older ignitions with a distributor run just as well with the less costly single-tipped Autolite AP985.

What I am thinking is more responsible for you idle problem is possibly nothing more than a dirty IAC (idle air controller) that is bolted to the throttle body. At idle, the engine gets all of its air through the IAC and when it gets dirty, it can block or make the air flow eratic which can cause the engine not to idle, idle at low rpms, or idle erratically.

I would first thoroughly clean the throttle body's interior with an aerosol throttle body cleaner, aiming the spray especially at the IAC passage inlet per the illustration below. That is where the air comes in at idle as controlled by the IAC's solenoid actuated plunger that fits into the passage inlet from the rear.

If that doesn't completely resolve the low idle condition, remove the IAC itself (two small torx screws hold it to the TB) and carefully/gently clean the IAC's plunger and the hole it fits into using the TB cleaner and a toothbrush/rag.

Either of these can be considered an easy one-banana job.
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:12 PM   #18
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Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto

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Old 12-31-2008, 05:20 PM   #19
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While the Autolite APP985 plugs are more expensive than what would have worked just as well, their single-tipped AP985, I doubt it's the plugs causing your idle problem... it's probably just coincidental. Only the newer distributorless ignitions require a double-tipped plug like the APP985 if you want platinum, the older ignitions with a distributor run just as well with the less costly single-tipped Autolite AP985.

What I am thinking is more responsible for you idle problem is possibly nothing more than a dirty IAC (idle air controller) that is bolted to the throttle body. At idle, the engine gets all of its air through the IAC and when it gets dirty, it can block or make the air flow eratic which can cause the engine not to idle, idle at low rpms, or idle erratically.

I would first thoroughly clean the throttle body's interior with an aerosol throttle body cleaner, aiming the spray especially at the IAC passage inlet per the illustration below. That is where the air comes in at idle as controlled by the IAC's solenoid actuated plunger that fits into the passage inlet from the rear.

If that doesn't completely resolve the low idle condition, remove the IAC itself (two small torx screws hold it to the TB) and carefully/gently clean the IAC's plunger and the hole it fits into using the TB cleaner and a toothbrush/rag.

Either of these can be considered an easy one-banana job.
cool, this was going to be my next question. i have had the problem of it reving to 1500rpms at stop lights and when i shift its rough.. the check engine light comes and goes. i had a mechanic hook it to the computer but found nothing. he cleaned the TB once and it ran great. it still has problems every niow and then? ill try taking that plug off and clean it..

by the way what do u think of k&N air filters?? i took the air box out and put on a K&N cone filter?
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:23 PM   #20
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by the way what do u think of k&N air filters?? i took the air box out and put on a K&N cone filter?
K&N and Jeep wrangler =
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:26 PM   #21
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K&N and Jeep wrangler =
really that bad???
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:32 PM   #22
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Yep, avoid K&N air filters like the plague. They filter out dirt and dust about as well as a screen door does. Plus they do NOT add performane on a TJ like they can on some cars. The reason being is the TJ's air intake system is not even close to being restrictive so it already breathes very well. It's on cars like the Ford Mustang 5.0L or Camaro Z28 that have restrictive air intakes where a K&N can help. But for offroading in dusty conditions, a K&N is not a good filter to run unless you like your engine breathing in dirty air with abrasive particulates like silica.
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:33 PM   #23
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I think Jerry has posted that Idle air control about twenty times already, That is pretty much the cure all with bad idle. It's relitively easy to do as well, and watch out not to strip those torx screws. Just an FYI as well even though you buy your spark plugs pre gapped, chack them anyway, it just cheap cardboard kepping them from getting banged around during shipping, and nobodys perfect who's to say that they didn't put the wrong plug type in there.
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:34 PM   #24
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Yep, avoid K&N air filters like the plague. They filter out dirt and dust about as well as a screen door does. Plus they do NOT add performane on a TJ like they can on some cars. The reason being is the TJ's air intake system is not even close to being restrictive so it already breathes very well. It's on cars like the Ford Mustang 5.0L or Camaro Z28 that have restrictive air intakes where a K&N can help. But for offroading in dusty conditions, a K&N is not a good filter to run unless you like your engine breathing in dirty air with abrasive particulates like silica.
dang i really wish i would have checked on here before i just spent $50... will they take it back u think??
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:37 PM   #25
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I think Jerry has posted that Idle air control about twenty times already, That is pretty much the cure all with bad idle. It's relitively easy to do as well, and watch out not to strip those torx screws. Just an FYI as well even though you buy your spark plugs pre gapped, chack them anyway, it just cheap cardboard kepping them from getting banged around during shipping, and nobodys perfect who's to say that they didn't put the wrong plug type in there.
ok thanks
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:57 PM   #26
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dang i really wish i would have checked on here before i just spent $50... will they take it back u think??
when did u buy it? Clean it up a bit with the vacuum cleaner and put it back in the box and give it back to the store. I wish Jerry would had the website where they did the testing for k&N filters.. It will really change ur mind since they go into detail. K&N flowed great however didnt clean dust particles at all.
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:25 PM   #27
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only about 2weeks ago.
yeah im gona try and take it back
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:48 PM   #28
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So on my 05 4.0 I need to use a double tipped plug rather than a standard champion?
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:51 PM   #29
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So on my 05 4.0 I need to use a double tipped plug rather than a standard champion?
Either is fine, you must just avoid any single-tipped platinum plug which will eventually cause hard to diagnose engine problems in your distributorless engine. Personally, I'd go with the double-tipped APP985 Autolite platinum if it were me. That plug will perform the same as Champion's 4412 conventional "Truck" plug but it will outlast it by 3X. That means two fewer plug changes which saves $$$ and labor time.
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Old 12-31-2008, 07:03 PM   #30
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I just put in Champin 438 copper plugs, to replace the NGK's that were in it when i bought it. You think iI should put in the Autolites?

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