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Old 04-17-2008, 11:05 AM   #1
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Cool Spring upgrade

Hello, I'm a newbie to the forum and have questions about a spring upgrade. I have a stock 98 wrangler. I was thinking of the old man emu 2" springs and shock upgrade. Its kind of pricey so is the quality worth it? I'm not doing any serious offroad stuff. Also is it fairly easy to swap the springs out? Do I need any special tools like spring compressors or anything? I'm pretty mechanical just haven't done much to my jeep yet. Thanks for any advice, Mark

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Old 04-17-2008, 11:20 AM   #2
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Installation is easy and it will take you about 3-4 hrs.. maybe 4-5 since thats ur first upgrade on ur jeep and half the time is just looking how stuff goes together

Special tools.. you will need some tall jack stands (they have to go ON the frame by the control arms so they have top be quite tall) Spring compressor might be helpful and i'd say its not bad to have on the side as after all you can rent one from autozone or other local autostores.
You will need 2 jacks to control the axle. A can of wd40, a set of sockets and regular wrenches and that should be it. The only problem you might have is removing the top nut on the stock front shocks.


I have the OME shocks (not springs) and just the shocks made a huge improvement in ride and handling. The way OME are designed is quite nice because they make the rig lean a lot less on turns but yet again are quite soft so they give stability and improve ride.

OMEs quality is tops.

take a look at here for kits.
http://dpgoffroad.com/TJLJtrailgunner.htm

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Old 04-17-2008, 11:48 PM   #3
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you really dont need two jacks tho.. i got away perfectly fine with 1 3-ton jack.. also my jacks are like 21 or 23".. i agree with the spring compressors to make it easier.. you might as well buy a set, i got mine for $30 at harbor tool and freight, and ive probably used them another 4-5 times since..

remember to disconnect the sway bar when putting in the new shocks and coils, it'll make it alot easier.. my 2'' coils went in easier than it was taking my stock ones out..
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Old 04-18-2008, 12:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoA View Post
also my jacks are like 21 or 23"
Jackstands?

anyhow i used my stock TJ jack and another jack from a montero sport.

easy easy easy.


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Old 04-18-2008, 12:19 AM   #5
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oops yah i meant 21-23'' jack stands and a 3-ton jack.. silly me
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Old 04-18-2008, 12:25 AM   #6
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i dont know how tall mine are but they are AC delco or something like that and i got them from Lee Auto parts for like 10 bucks on sale (i think they were 50 bucks full price). Those things were quite heavy duty and they weight a ton.
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Old 04-18-2008, 12:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
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i dont know how tall mine are but they are AC delco or something like that and i got them from Lee Auto parts for like 10 bucks on sale (i think they were 50 bucks full price). Those things were quite heavy duty and they weight a ton.
yep i got mine pretty cheap too.. i think they were 14.99.. harbor tool and freight is pretty cheap when it comes to some stuff..
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Old 04-18-2008, 07:17 PM   #8
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Do you have to have spring compressors? Couldn't you just use the jack to move the axle?
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Old 04-19-2008, 02:54 AM   #9
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With 2" longer springs you shouldn't need a spring compressor however it will make your job easier and safer. You can only move the axle so far down. I've seen photos of people jumping on one end of the axles to try to lower them down to fit the springs.. well your brake lines will limit how far down your axles can go.
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:42 AM   #10
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OK so if you use a jack to lift one side of the axle up will it not drop the other side down allowing you to insert the spring? If the brake line is holding the axle at the furthest extended point would that mean the brake line was too short?
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Old 04-19-2008, 12:17 PM   #11
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Yes you can lift one side up and the other one will drop. Thats what most of us do. The brake lines can be changed with longer brake lines and many would recommend it once you go with a lift and start disconnecting the sway bars. For me my brake line was too short so i unscrewed the brakeline from the frame. On my pic below see how the brake line is held to the frame by that one torx bolt? I unsrewed it so this gave me another inch or two of play there so i can drop the axle further down. With my 4" springs though i needed compressor anyways.
(do not disconnect the rubber brake line from the metal line)
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Old 04-19-2008, 02:02 PM   #12
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I seem to remember doing my last lift without spring compressors. They were really hard to work with because they got in the way when I installed the springs. I am getting ready to do another lift, its a RE3.5 superflex, and I am hoping to be able to do it without spring compressors. I am going to change out the brake lines. Any one done this??


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Old 04-19-2008, 02:25 PM   #13
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If you're replacing the brake lines (while doing the lift) you shouldnt need a spring compressor for the front. For the rear it will be tough as the hand brake cables are short.
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Old 04-19-2008, 02:54 PM   #14
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Cool that's what I wanted to hear. I built my own brake cables in the rear for my Ford 8.8, so no worries there. Thanks
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Old 04-19-2008, 03:26 PM   #15
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NP dude, keep us updated
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Old 04-20-2008, 12:18 AM   #16
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there is no need for spring compressors, just loosen the stock control arms, 15mm i think on top and 13/16 on bottom. you only have to loosen them about 1 turn and they are all easy to reach, the top even has captured nuts so you only need 1 wrench. that will give you all the droop you need and then some. you should do this anyway to unbind the bushings and get some flex back.
i didnt realize how restrictive the stock CA bushings were until i put on my RKLA a couple weeks ago, i couldnt even get my OME springs out, so i loosend the CA's and the springs just fell out. leave the CA bolts loose until you are done and have it sitting back on the ground, then tighten the bolts back up.
this is a LOT easier than fighting the axle to get the springs in/out or using a spring compressor.
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IF THE SMOKE AIN'T BLACK, TAKE IT BACK
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Old 04-20-2008, 12:28 AM   #17
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I donno about you but if you call pressing on the axle down with one hand is too much work then i take it all back.
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Old 04-20-2008, 12:48 AM   #18
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I donno about you but if you call pressing on the axle down with one hand is too much work then i take it all back.
im a 6'2" 240 lb journey heavy equipment tech and jumping on the axle it wouldnt droop enough for me to get a 2 inch OME spring in... you must have one strong hand.

I would recommend it to take the stress of the bushings anyway, thats a lot of stress on a wee little bushing and it'll give your flex back
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Old 04-20-2008, 09:13 AM   #19
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there is no need for spring compressors, just loosen the stock control arms, 15mm i think on top and 13/16 on bottom. you only have to loosen them about 1 turn and they are all easy to reach, the top even has captured nuts so you only need 1 wrench. that will give you all the droop you need and then some. you should do this anyway to unbind the bushings and get some flex back.
i didnt realize how restrictive the stock CA bushings were until i put on my RKLA a couple weeks ago, i couldnt even get my OME springs out, so i loosend the CA's and the springs just fell out. leave the CA bolts loose until you are done and have it sitting back on the ground, then tighten the bolts back up.
this is a LOT easier than fighting the axle to get the springs in/out or using a spring compressor.

Hey thanks for the advise Sean. I have heard that this is a good way to do a lift before. Especially the part where you tighten up on the ground. You explained it very well. Thanks again.
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Old 04-20-2008, 11:11 AM   #20
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You can also use the jack to push down the axle if you need to.

Sean i think what you did was you had the jack lifted too much so you were actually pushing on the other spring as you were trying to drop the other end you wanted the spring in.
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:48 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by sean42069 View Post
there is no need for spring compressors, just loosen the stock control arms, 15mm i think on top and 13/16 on bottom. you only have to loosen them about 1 turn and they are all easy to reach, the top even has captured nuts so you only need 1 wrench. that will give you all the droop you need and then some. you should do this anyway to unbind the bushings and get some flex back.
i didnt realize how restrictive the stock CA bushings were until i put on my RKLA a couple weeks ago, i couldnt even get my OME springs out, so i loosend the CA's and the springs just fell out. leave the CA bolts loose until you are done and have it sitting back on the ground, then tighten the bolts back up.
this is a LOT easier than fighting the axle to get the springs in/out or using a spring compressor.
So did you loosen the UCA or the LCA or both?
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:44 PM   #22
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there is no way u need to loosen the control arms to fit 2" springs in. i fit mine in with no spring compressors (and without loosening the stock arms) by just putting the factory bottle jack between the axle and frame to push the axle down for enough room to slide the spring in.
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:56 PM   #23
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Yes you are correct. I am putting in a 3.5RE Superflex. I went to loosen the upper control arm on the front bolt, and the keeper started to spin with the bolt.

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