It's easy to swap, I've swapped mine on the trail. It is heavier than it looks though so when removing the old steering box, don't have your face under it.
Remember NOT to start the engine to bleed air out of the power steering system. Starting the engine to bleed the air out of the power steering lines can ruin the power steering pump through cavitation. Instead, jack the front-end up enough to get the front tires off the ground. Then turn the steering wheel all the way back & forth 50 times to work the air bubbles out, adding a little PS fluid as you go. Caution that the PS fluid level goes up and down in the reservoir as the steering turns left/right. So if it is filled too high at the wrong point in the left/right steering process, it can overflow and make you think incorrectly that you have a massive leak.
After 50 full left-right turns without the engine running, then you can start the engine. A little bit of squealing until the final small bubbles work their way out is normal, check the fluid level again after you've driven it.
Make sure to use only fresh sealed power steering fluid, don't use any that has been open on your shelf. Unsealed containers of PS fluid allow the fluid to pick up moisture which ruins it. A pure synthetic power steering fluid is the way to go as it can handle the heat better that is generated by steering big tires on tight twisty trails.