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Old 06-30-2013, 10:42 AM   #1
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steering stabilizer - compatible with my setup?

the back and forth tracking is killing my driving experience. Scares the hell out of me with oncoming traffic. Does it look like like a stabilizer would fit in this setup? Thanks for any guidance.

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Old 06-30-2013, 10:57 AM   #2
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A steering stabilizer isn't going to solve your problem and I'll leave the diagnosis/prescription to the experts.

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Old 06-30-2013, 11:32 AM   #3
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It is probably your tires at hwy speeds. I bet that if you swapped tires for your street driving, this wouldn't be a problem.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:39 AM   #4
Knows a couple things...

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Make sure your toe-in and caster angles are both set correctly. The term 'steering stabilizer' is misleading, a more accurate description of what it does should be steering damper. Its job is primarly to absorb the jolts & bumps of driving, with a lesser effect of slightly stabilizing the steering. So in summary, I suspect you have a bad toe-in or caster setting.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:12 PM   #5
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Thanks for the responses everyone.

I should have clarified a bit more on the reason I was asking. At highway speeds (or let's say anything above 50), every so often I'll hit a bump or get a jolt that will cause the Jeep to track in a different direction. I'll then have to jerk the steering wheel to get it back on track. I will check the toe-in and caster settings, but it looks like I may still benefit from a steering stabilizer.

Does it look like there'd be any reason that I couldn't install a stabilizer on my rig?
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:26 AM   #6
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Mudda,

I have a similar setup with the tera high steer but I do not have a front track bar. I also do not currently have a steering stabilizer. Even though I do not have any noticeable issues on the highway, I am going to install a stabilizer to help with feedback while off road.

It looks like your major issue is that your track bar and steering bar are not parallel. As you hit a bump, the two bars are not moving in the same arc and thus causing your issue (pulling the steering wheel or steering your vehicle).

It my setup, since I don't have a track bar, I have a drop pitman that tries to place the steering bar as horizontal as possible. I have a little bump steer but it is barely noticeable.

I think in your case, if you have a drop pitman, you might want to go back to a stock one. Or drop the frame side of the track bar in order to get them as parallel as possible.

It might be beneficial to send an email with pics to Teraflex. I bought my rig with the kit installed (initially to remove the Rubicon axles to put in my 97 but I decided to rebuild it) and they have been helpful with correcting a few small problems I have had. They should be able to verify my assumption or set you on the right path.
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:48 AM   #7
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You're experiencing bump steer because your dragline isn't even close to being parallel with the track bar.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:40 AM   #8
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oooo, something I haven't read about enough. Sub'd
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:14 PM   #9
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Thank you all for your insight - I really appreciate it. It looks like my next step is to get in touch with the manufacturer.
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:58 PM   #10
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Someone let me know if I'm crazy. When I look at this setup here and compare it to the picture I posted, it looks like my drag link is installed........backwards/reversed? The reason I say that is because it looks like the horizontal part of the track bar is supposed to be higher (closer to the frame), where mine is all the way down near the bottom (closer to the ground).

Am I seeing this wrong? Regardless, I'm going to get in touch with Teraflex.
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Old 07-14-2013, 02:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddafugga View Post
Someone let me know if I'm crazy. When I look at this setup here and compare it to the picture I posted, it looks like my drag link is installed........backwards/reversed? The reason I say that is because it looks like the horizontal part of the track bar is supposed to be higher (closer to the frame), where mine is all the way down near the bottom (closer to the ground).

Am I seeing this wrong? Regardless, I'm going to get in touch with Teraflex.
I think you mean track bar? Either way it doesn't matter if the track bar is backwards or not, that doesn't change anything (other than clearance issues). The shape of the track bar and drag link are irrelevant, it's the mounting points you have to look at.
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Old 07-14-2013, 02:08 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by freeskier View Post
I think you mean track bar? Either way it doesn't matter if the track bar is backwards or not, that doesn't change anything (other than clearance issues). The shape of the track bar and drag link are irrelevant, it's the mounting points you have to look at.
Crap... Yes, I meant track bar.
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Old 07-14-2013, 02:16 PM   #13
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Honestly I'd scrap that set up. Get a new/used OEM passenger side knuckle and go back to either stock steering or something like Currie steering. Get a new track bar too, I like my Metalcloak front track bar but Currie is also good. That track bar on there has terrible clearances and you either have lots of bump stop or the track bar is hitting the diff cover.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:24 AM   #14
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I agree somewhat. I probably would not have the high steer kit if it was not already installed by the previous owner. But that goes for the whole setup on mine. Even though I haven't had any issues, it wouldn't have been my first choice, especially with the high cost. I believe the high steer may be a requirement for my triangulated setup. It is way too expensive for me to go back to a traditional lift.

That may be a limiting factor for you as well. You may have some fabrication in order to get back to the factory setup, as well as the cost of the parts. I have read of people making the high steer setup work well with the presence of a track bar. I believe talking with Tera is the best way to see how much it would take to make it right.. Then you can decide whether or not it would be worth staying with it or going back to the stock setup.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:17 AM   #15
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If you ever want to sell and go to an OEM setup, PM me. I got a couple old steering setups from another jeep OEM and Currie setup.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_FBFL View Post
I agree somewhat. I probably would not have the high steer kit if it was not already installed by the previous owner. But that goes for the whole setup on mine. Even though I haven't had any issues, it wouldn't have been my first choice, especially with the high cost. I believe the high steer may be a requirement for my triangulated setup. It is way too expensive for me to go back to a traditional lift.

That may be a limiting factor for you as well. You may have some fabrication in order to get back to the factory setup, as well as the cost of the parts. I have read of people making the high steer setup work well with the presence of a track bar. I believe talking with Tera is the best way to see how much it would take to make it right.. Then you can decide whether or not it would be worth staying with it or going back to the stock setup.
You have a front triangulated set up?
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:03 AM   #17
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I do.

I bought the Jeep from a insurance site. It had been totaled due to a bent frame. I had to bid on it and picked it up only after I had won. I didn't see the lift/setup until after it was delivered. I wanted to take the running gear out, since it is a Rubicon, and put it in a 97 Wrangler I have. Since the original mounts were removed and the trusses for the new arms were welded in place, I couldn't just swap them over. Also the frame side mounts for the control arms were welded in place.

So I decided to rebuild it. The frame and other damage wasn't that bad. A family member knew a shop that would do the work at cost.

It has the Teraflex LCG Max lift with triangulated front and rear. The only downside I have noticed so far is the slightly limited uptravel in the front axle. Other than that, It drives and handles great. There is a slight amount of bump steer with very large dips or bumps on the highway. It is no where near some of the jeeps I have driven with the budget lifts with dropped pitman arms. I usually don't notice it unless I am focusing on it.

I recently replaced the Teraflex flex joints with the Metalcloak Duraflex joints. I could not do the front upper control arms yet as they are smaller than what is available. It rides great. I currently don't have a steering stabilizer as it was damaged. I don't have any feedback or wobble in the steering whatsoever.. But all of the bushings are new. Not sure if things start to wear and loosen up if that may change.

I will keep it on, unless I have major issues with it in the future.. then I will look to move to a traditional short arm setup. Hopefully I can teach myself to weld in the meantime!!
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:20 PM   #18
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Axle mounted end of the track bar needs to be mounted higher to match the height of the TRE on the draglink from the looks of it . Not an easy job but it needs to be addressed if you want that type of steering .
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:31 AM   #19
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Just wanted to provide some closure for those folks who are sub'd to the thread (and in case someone else stumbles upon this one day).

I replaced the tie rod end. In fact, the theories here about the castle nut losing its thread because of the lack of cotter pin from the previous owner were correct. Once I replaced the tie rod end, torqued it properly, and stuck a cotter pin in there, there was an immediate difference in driving. The bump-steer is practically non existent. Well, that's not true, but when bump-steer happens, I immediately feel it in the steering wheel and can make subtle corrections since there is no longer play in the steering. This allows me to make immediate corrections, and basically eliminated my problem.

Thanks y'all for the help.
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:24 AM   #20
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Steering slack (part of your problem) and steering geometry are two very different things. You fixed part of the problem but the rest of it is still present.

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