Steering Stablilizer Stud Stuck - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 12-02-2012, 05:52 PM   #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 27
Steering Stablilizer Stud Stuck

I need help again guys. What I thought would be an easy job turned out to be a real bi*t@h. My steering damper was leaking and basically useless so I thought I'd change it out to a new one. Just 2 bolts and easy access, so no problem, right? wrong. Tapered stud is not budging. My dad and I tried acetylene/oxygen heat on it for awhile, and also a gear puller with WD 40. We were cranking on that gear puller with a 1/2" ratchet attached and a 2 foot cheater bar to tighten it. Neither worked; stud didn't budge. Any other ideas???????

SuzyF is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 06:05 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
screwystewy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 208
I had to use a bfh hammer to get mine out..i didnt smack the stud itself but where the stub goes into the drag link..it helps jar it loose..good luck!

screwystewy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 06:07 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
theCollector's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 87
No offense intended here but you did heat the bar around the stud and not directly the stud itself, right? Obviously you want the hole bigger and heats makes it expand.

My buddy and I installed the dpg offroad ultimate kit today with new ome steering stabilizer. Used a punch type tip in a air hammer on the end of the stud and it came right out.
__________________
2006 Rubicon Unlimited
theCollector is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 06:09 PM   #4
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
jp2611's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Fort Wayne IN
Posts: 5,725
the longer that it is in there the worse it is...replaced first one at 40K replaced second about 100K PIA to get it out third one was done when the shop added the OME lift and OME stabilizer....they said that was the worst bolt to get out and change!!!
jp2611 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 06:10 PM   #5
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,371
Images: 2
First and whatever you do, don't beat on the stud itself which will just deform it and make its fit in the drag link even tighter.

Second, WD-40 is NOT a penetrant and is not a good choice for this task... despite what WD-40's marketing department wants us to believe. Instead, use Break-Free, PB-Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench for such tasks.

Finally I've removed this particular tapered stud and the other front-end's tapered studs many times and have had the best and most consistent results by a method an old-time mechanic/guru taught me. Take a BFH, like a small one-hand sledge hammer, and give several of your mightiest manly-man smacks with it to the SIDE of the drag link next to where the stud passes through. Done properly, that invariably pops it free. That is how I remove all the tapered studs to install new steering systems and I can get all of them released before anyone with a puller can get the first one free. If it doesn't work, you're just not trying hard enough because it works.

This shows the technique on the side of the knuckle next to where its tapered stud passes through. Note the hammer never touches the stud, only the side of what it passes through. This technique works really well. Really.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	TieRodSledgeHammer.jpg
Views:	38
Size:	27.7 KB
ID:	183862  
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 06:21 PM   #6
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 27
No, we didn't heat the stud itself, but the bar around it got a good treatment. We pounded on it with a copper mallet but not on the bolt itself. Left the nut on the end and beat upward the best we could on the nut surface.
SuzyF is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 07:00 PM   #7
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,371
Images: 2
A copper mallet absorbs too much of the force of the shock & impact needed to break it free. 100% of the use of force should be applied directly and only to the side of the drag link next to where the stud passes through.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 07:21 PM   #8
Commercial Member

WF Supporting Member
 
bostiguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Coaster Guy, Ma
Posts: 826
I just recently had this happen. Beating it as shown didn't work for me. What finally worked and was easy, I drilled a hole up into the stud, I think I got progressively bigger. I may have drilled a 1/4" hole up into it. I felt like this would relieve the pressure and then gave it a whack as described above and it popped right out for me. Give it a shot since you're replacing the stud anyways..GL
bostiguy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 07:45 PM   #9
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 31,371
Images: 2
What's funny is not only do I use the described method, but everyone in my core group of wheeling friends/builders all use it too. A few whacks from any of us and the joints invariably separate within just 1-2 sometimes 3 good whacks. When it doesn't work, it's due to giving up before the knack is learned... and typically it's just because some people aren't used to using serious muscle force to knock something free.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 08:05 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
Patrick H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Northern NM
Posts: 3,133
Jerry's technique works well, especially if you have a dead-blow hammer. It works by actually egg shaping the hole temporarily, forcing the tapered stud out. I do it all the time at work. I also use an adjustable pitman arm puller if I can't get a good swing. Also, in a situation like the steering damper stud which is located in the middle of the drag link, I don't like smacking those very hard if I can help it. In that particular situation, I go for the pitman arm puller every time.
Patrick H is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-02-2012, 10:03 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
lys327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 775
i have used the whack a mole method and that does work. unlike mine though, i have around 200k mile and the stud never came out. used heat penetrator, etc. i eventually drilled and beat it out. it was never the same. i used a standard grade 8 bolt and lock nut to replace it. has worked great with a standard grade 8 bolt.
lys327 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 12-03-2012, 02:46 PM   #12
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 27
Well, we tried the hammer trick, tried the impact chisel hammer, tried the pitman puller (even left it on cranked while we heated it up again), tried drilling the bolt with good bits (my Dad has a lathe, so good metal bits) and they didn't even get started. We even tried one of those pitman arm forks under the nut above the hole and the fork just took the edges off that fixed nut and didn't budge the bolt. All with a 2ft cheater pipe attached so it wasn't for lack of strength. My Dad was a big gearhead in his day (won prizes for restoration projects) and he even gave up. So, I guess it goes to the shop for removal.
On a worse note, we put in the new oil pressure sender and it didn't fix the 0 oil pressure reading at idle. In fact, now the check engine light comes up also in addition to the check gauges light. Not promising. Can't believe all these issues on a jeep with only 84k miles. With my luck, it will probably be the bearings. (big sigh).

SuzyF is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:34 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC