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Steering wanders in acceleration/deceleration

6K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Magpul 
#1 ·
You guys have been a tremendous help with my steering issues and I praise you guys for all of it :worthy:. Now I have a new problem

I recently added an adjustable track bar to the front. And while the steering has gotten INCREDIBLY better, it still has a couple small issues.

1. When I accelerate/decelerate it jerks one way or the other. It's not a hard jerk, just enough to be noticeable.

2. Still have a slight wobble around 75 mph. It's not enough to keep me from driving at that speed, but enough that it worries at extended driving time. The tires were balanced about 2 weeks ago and an alignment was done 3 weeks ago.

:pullinghair:

What could cause either of these issues?
 
#3 ·
With wandering steering on acceleration/deceleration it is often related to worn bushings on the rear axle allowing the thrust angle to change as you apply throttle and lift off the throttle. Generally it's the control arm bushings, but I've also seen this happen with the rear track bar being loose as well.
 
#4 ·
I was skeptical of the rear track bar too. Wasn't sure if that would cause it. I haven't looked at the bushings lately.

I'll check the bushings and control arms as well as the rear track bar in the upcoming days.
 
#7 ·
Bottom line up front: Alignment Did The Trick
(No adjustable control arms or adjustable track bar)

I recently replaced the tie rod, drag link, and pitman arm on a 2004 TJ with a 4" lift on 33" tires. The installed drop pitman arm was removed and replaced with an EOM. Tie rod/drag link was installed replacing the OEM with a cross-over style. A home garage alignment was performed yet I was experiencing mild to moderate wandering on acceleration and deceleration. Understand how the frame, steering gear, drag link, and track bar all move with the frame it still didn't make sense. This wandering was bad enough I was forced to keep my eyes peering out the windscreen at all times and could hear my CFI in the back of my head yelling to just fly the plane...er I mean drive the Jeep.

Bringing it back to home base I thoroughly looked over the geometry and it really looks good. No change seemed to be needed even after fully articulating both ends of the axle. I was stumped so I checked the alignment again. It was good but I adjusted for one minor 1/32". So, I went and picked up some dog food. It wasn't better and it wasn't worse. Yet, it was not undrivable just wasn't right, it didn't sound right and I knew it. What had I done wrong?

The alignment method I was using was seriously wrong. Either take it to a reputable shop or truly educate yourself as much as possible before attempting to align the toe. I had been using a spot on the treads of the tires to "calibrate" my alignment (only meaning toe). Back in the home shop office I researched extensively and learned my methods had been left wanting. Don't use the rubber on the tire to align. Use either a dedicated device or your own homemade which is what I did. With only two drywall screws in some very straight OSB board, some slits cut for two tapes, I was able to obtain a within 1/8" toe-in and realized the entire time I was toe-out almost to 1/2". Shocking!

Yet, I remember noticing the louder than normal road noise from the tires and a slight grind/sanding sound as I took 100s of miles off my tread in front. I have access to limited resources in the remote location I'm living and so this method may not be for everyone but it really worked out well so far for me. Just remember to do your cutting of the OSB away from the eyes of someone you promised a shelf for in the closet.
 
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