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Old 07-26-2014, 12:34 AM   #1
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Question stranded wife

Just got a call from the wife, 2000 wrangler tj manual trans she said it sounded like she was dragging a chain when accelerating and it sounded like loose receiver when she slowed down,like when your pulling a trailer that clunk noise she slowed down then it took a dump she rolled off to side of road and now says can't get it in any gear she's pissed,more scared i think, she's 200 miles from home,tow is coming, any ideas, this all just happened out of the blue it was running great the last 120,000 no noises or anything

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Old 07-26-2014, 07:09 AM   #2
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Could be the rear diff. Tell her to put it in 4wd high and see if it moves. If so drive it home in 4 high.

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Old 07-26-2014, 07:32 AM   #3
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Bunch of grinding and now won't go into gear? If it's a 4cyl ax5, that transmission is famous for dropping 5th gear off the countershaft. Maybe the retaining ring dropped down and jammed into another gear mesh.
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Old 07-26-2014, 07:36 AM   #4
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What does cannot get it in gear mean

Tranny lever will not move or just no forward movement in gear or something else

Any burnt smell like a slipping clutch when this happened

If shifter will not move to any gear with engine running can it be shifted into 1st with engine stopped

If so like a clutch that won't operate acts like if pedal always up even if you push it down then you can start in 1st gear as it learches forward engine starts and can actually shift tranny without clutch by matching engine speed and gently pulley into next gear but a no go with engine running and vehicle stopped so have to let engine die and start over if you need to come to a full stop

Had a similar experience when my triumph 750 broke the clutch cable had to push start in first sitting on seat and pushing with feet but then a pretty easy shift and drive if you did not have to stop, but one red light and I had to do it all again
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dock Rocker View Post
Could be the rear diff. Tell her to put it in 4wd high and see if it moves. If so drive it home in 4 high.
Don't drive it home 200 miles with a blown rear diff... that's just asking for more damage or an accident.
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Old 07-27-2014, 04:04 AM   #6
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were having it towed home tomorrow,4.0 manual trans couldn't get a gear when rolling but could when stopped, I can't wait to see this I'm kinda thinkin rear diff. also.Tell me this we just put a 2" lift and 32's less than a 1000 miles ago do you think that this might have been enough too finish off a 150,000 mile rear diff?
Thanks
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Old 07-27-2014, 07:32 AM   #7
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it shouldnt, but what do you mean she couldnt get it into gear?

like the shifter wouldnt go into the gear location or while in a certain gear position, the engine just revs and there is no movement?
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Old 07-27-2014, 07:36 AM   #8
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Could you put it in gear with engine running and vehicle stopped or only with engine off and vehicle stopper

If the latter could be loss of clutch function with engine always tied tote annoy input
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:03 AM   #9
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the latter could be loss of clutch function with engine always tied tote annoy input
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:38 AM   #10
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Always tied to the tranny input shaft
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Old 07-28-2014, 02:05 AM   #11
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jeeps still not back yet I will post when I have more details thanks again
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:25 AM   #12
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I won't pretend to know what I'm talking about cause I don;t but here;s what i think i know the rear end is toast it looks to me like a bearing came apart and got ground up in the gears, not sure whats the best way to fix it, swap it, or rebuild it.it was a model 35 now it's junk we plan on keeping the jeep forever so i'd like some opinions
thanks in advance
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:42 AM   #13
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You can completely rebuild it with new gears and bearings for $700 or so. Sometimes you can find a used but good condition Dana 35 for $250-300. I sold mine for $300 in good condition with a $500 Detroit Truetrac limited slip differential inside.
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:12 AM   #14
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If you are sure its the rear axle you should be able to find a cheap replacement like Jerry said. I sold my Dana 35 with zero rust and in perfect working order for $200 a couple of years ago.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:18 AM   #15
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If you are planning to keep the Jeep forever, and you are going have to, either repair or replace a Dana 35, for $250.00 - $700.00, why don't you instead upgrade to a Dana 44, a much stronger differential, for the same price?
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:33 AM   #16
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Best of luck on it. I can't say that I'd condemn the rear diff just yet. Will have to wait for more info (you'll know what's broken before any of us once you see the jeep in person.)
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:31 PM   #17
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I like the sound of swapping it out with the dana 44, will it bolt rite up or will there have to be other modifications
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:37 PM   #18
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The only Dana 44 that is a bolt-in would be a used Dana 44 out of a '97 to '06 Wrangler. Or an '03 to '06 Rubicon rear Dana 44. Most other Dana 44 axles are set up for leaf springs so they have vastly different mounting requirements.
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Old 08-09-2014, 02:44 PM   #19
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2 weeks later and we have decided to rebuild it jeep has a 2" lift and 32s and pretty much a daily driver, I'm thinking 4:11 R.P. and also doing the front 4:10 new carriers on both,and obviously bearings and seals all the way around I am looking at about a 1000$ give or take. Do you think this is a good plan or should it be rebuilt differently, meaning 4:56 R.P?any input is appreciated as this is my 1st one
thanks in advance Kev.
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Old 08-09-2014, 05:03 PM   #20
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4.10 is fine for 32's but if you see 33's in your future, I'd go with 4.56.

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